The tension on the spring is not much. you can have the crank arm on the lifter shaft spline in the marked location then just wind one tune and hold it while you finish getting the cover in place. It really easy as you do not have to wind it until the cover is about a half inch from the the engine block. Once you wind it one turn you just scoop up the lifter piece as the cover goes on. If you do not catch the lifter piece it will not go on. Also by going on I mean by hand no force is needed.
Just got my parts....ok, I looked a it quickly..I see where the spring engages in the forked end. I assume just put the arm on, use that to swing some tension and slowly release the tension so the shaft picks up the head off the pressure plate. Once it slips in push the plate snug to the block....helps if I have the gasket in place..LOL also.
 
Just got my parts....ok, I looked a it quickly..I see where the spring engages in the forked end. I assume just put the arm on, use that to swing some tension and slowly release the tension so the shaft picks up the head off the pressure plate. Once it slips in push the plate snug to the block....helps if I have the gasket in place..LOL also.
Yes just wind it one full turn then scoop up the lifter piece as the cover slips on. Once the cover is in place you will not lose the spring tension.. Just do not over wind the spring or it will tighten around the shaft it is on and create problems.
 
Also-as I dumped the coolant and I see form other posts folks are using Zerex G-05 as replace. Opinions?

You need to use a coolant that is HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) compliant. That's what Triumph states in the manual. Mixing coolants that aren't compatable may cause bad things to happen with the cooling system like gelling of the coolant. Zerex G-05 is compliant along with numerous others.

I had to sift through many types of coolant until I found some concentrate for diesels that had the HOAT label. Since I have to park my bike in an unheated shed, temps can often drop to -40F so the last thing I needed was a cracked block. The standard coolant that Triumph supplied was only good for -32F. Drained almost 2 liters of original stuff and added the concentrate. Did this last year and have had no freezing or cooling issues since then. Prevention is the key. Do the research up front. The coolant Triumph sells with their logo is almost impossible to find.
 
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You need to use a coolastart cot is HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) compliant. That's what Triumph states in the manual. Mixing coolants that aren't compatable may cause bad things to happen with the cooling system like gelling of the coolant. Zerex G-05 is compliant along with numerous others.

I had to sift through many types of coolant until I found some concentrate for diesels that had the HOAT label. Since I have to park my bike in an unheated shed, temps can often drop to -40F so the last thing I needed was a cracked block. The standard coolant that Triumph supplied was only good for -32F. Drained almost 2 liters of original stuff and added the concentrate. Did this last year and have had no freezing or cooling issues since then. Prevention is the key. Do the research up front. The coolant Triumph sells with their logo is almost impossible to find.
ok put the part in. One turn spring load. Engaged the head of the the sharft
OTE="Gregger, post: 345741, member: 4953"]You need to use a coolant that is HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) compliant. That's what Triumph states in the manual. Mixing coolants that aren't compatable may cause bad things to happen with the cooling system like gelling of the coolant. Zerex G-05 is compliant along with numerous others.

I had to sift through many types of coolant until I found some concentrate for diesels that had the HOAT label. Since I have to park my bike in an unheated shed, temps can often drop to -40F so the last thing I needed was a cracked block. The standard coolant that Triumph supplied was only good for -32F. Drained almost 2 liters of original stuff and added the concentrate. Did this last year and have had no freezing or cooling issues since then. Prevention is the key. Do the research up front. The coolant Triumph sells with their logo is almost impossible to find.[/QUOTE]
Pit
 
Parts in. One full rotation on the shaft, spring. Engaged into the shaft coming out of pressure plate. Case on and other than the spring tension there is no tension from the clutch. I am still scratching my head how this lateral tension engages the clutch but right now nothing is happening. What should I be looking for? Ideas? Other than the new shaft and spring are there any other parts I may be missing? Nothing else was in the case but two pieces is the shaft.
 
Thinking the clutch is fully engaged. Maybe why no tension when i engage.
Parts in. One full rotation on the shaft, spring. Engaged into the shaft coming out of pressure plate. Case on and other than the spring tension there is no tension from the clutch. I am still scratching my head how this lateral tension engages the clutch but right now nothing is happening. What should I be looking for? Ideas? Other than the new shaft and spring are there any other parts I may be missing? Nothing else was in the case but two pieces is the shaft.
 
Yes the clutch is engaged all the time until you pull on the clutch lever then the cable moves pulling the lifter shaft arm rotating the lifter shaft and pulling on the head of the lifter piece in the clutch pack. This pulls the pressure plate forward against the springs releasing the fibers and disc so they are free then the outer basket and the inner splined hub are free. the inner hub splines mesh with the steels and the basket splines mesh with the splines on the fibers.
Hope this helps
 
Yes the clutch is engaged all the time until you pull on the clutch lever then the cable moves pulling the lifter shaft arm rotating the lifter shaft and pulling on the head of the lifter piece in the clutch pack. This pulls the pressure plate forward against the springs releasing the fibers and disc so they are free then the outer basket and the inner splined hub are free. the inner hub splines mesh with the steels and the basket splines mesh with the splines on the fibers.
Hope this helps[/QUOTE. It does....I guess the question is now it together...why is the shaft when engaged not pulling the lifter piece up....maybe it broke behind the pressure plate?
 
Thanks warp. I got it together and all set. One thing I did do that I am not 100 percent confident about is putting a full turn on again the return spring prior to putting the case on and then once on there is aprox another turn to have it engage the head of the shaft to set the adjustment on the clutch armature and cable. Being a return spring not sure if this is a big deal but actually spoke to the dealer mechanic. He was not sure but said it shouldn't be an issue but his manual as well as mine only listed to pull forward prior to attaching case to block
 
Thanks warp. I got it together and all set. One thing I did do that I am not 100 percent confident about is putting a full turn on again the return spring prior to putting the case on and then once on there is aprox another turn to have it engage the head of the shaft to set the adjustment on the clutch armature and cable. Being a return spring not sure if this is a big deal but actually spoke to the dealer mechanic. He was not sure but said it shouldn't be an issue but his manual as well as mine only listed to pull forward prior to attaching case to block
You should be ok the point is not to over wind it as it probably does not rotate but 180 degrees during normal movement if that much at all. If you get to where you think there is not enough you can just add one on the outside so you do not have to take it apart. I probably would have put it up there then right before I scooped the lifter piece I would have went one turn then scoop. Which probably amounts to what you did :) Keep us posted you are now a clutch technician :)
 
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