Clutch cable adjustment

Since I had the Carpenter kit done, mine never completely disengages, I have to put it in neutral to back the bike up if it isn't running. Adjustment looks the same, does that have to do with the heavy duty clutch springs they install, or do I need to try to readjust?
 
Since I had the Carpenter kit done, mine never completely disengages, I have to put it in neutral to back the bike up if it isn't running. Adjustment looks the same, does that have to do with the heavy duty clutch springs they install, or do I need to try to readjust?

I would say if you aren't completely disengaging you definitely should do some kind of adjustment for sure!
 
That's correct. I bet neutral is almost impossible to find and you're getting huge clunk on engaging 1st.
In effect you're not able to pull the lever in far enough. Depending on what adjustments were done previously you might find that simply adjusting the lever for reach will improve it. If that doesn't do it you need to lengthen the outer. They do come out of adjustment a little. Just be aware that it could also be an indication that your cable is starting to go. Check especially up inside the lever for any signs of fraying.
 
Since I had the Carpenter kit done, mine never completely disengages, I have to put it in neutral to back the bike up if it isn't running. Adjustment looks the same, does that have to do with the heavy duty clutch springs they install, or do I need to try to readjust?
Yours needs adjustment. I have the same springs and do not have a problem backing mine up in gear with the clutch pulled in.
 
Hey guys

So here is what I've done. I turned the adjuster almost as far as it can go towards the lever. This finally gave me this slack now, I hope this feels better. I've noticed that 2 times when I've rode out in the morning it's hard to get the bike from neutral into 1st. It would not clunk and sometimes it fell out into neutral. I am thinking the original adjustment was probably way off?

Am I right in thinking that moving the adjuster in loosens the slack

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hey guy
i just backed mine all the way off like your top picture. on MINE that was too much free play.
i adjusted the free play down to two mm. like in your second picture you can do it by pulling on outer cable just like in second picture. or you can do it like the book (warps #10 post.
free play means that you can squeeze the lever a little before the clutch starts to engage.
my lever has a dial that has number settings from 1 to 4 i have mine on #1 so as to get maximum clutch release when i pull the lever in. and if this last statement is wrong some one can jump on me.
 
I backed mine out, making the sheath longer gets rid of the free play. It's OK now, boy, on the Touring, at least, the lower adjuster looks impossible to get at without removing the radiator shroud or highway bars. I'm thinking mine is stretched, 26,000 miles, I'm going to order a new one now, before it goes.
 
Reporting in today.... With the adjustment I made, the bike moves SO much better now, it actually has the exact kind of friction zone I was looking for, and it properly clunks into first gear as well. This seems to solve the issue I was having! Absolutely no free play at all. Too bad I had to move the adjustment all the way to the right and there is no more space for it to move almost.
 
Reporting in today.... With the adjustment I made, the bike moves SO much better now, it actually has the exact kind of friction zone I was looking for, and it properly clunks into first gear as well. This seems to solve the issue I was having! Absolutely no free play at all. Too bad I had to move the adjustment all the way to the right and there is no more space for it to move almost.

I think there is a problem if you are running with no free play. It is important to have the 2-3mm free play
 
I think there is a problem if you are running with no free play. It is important to have the 2-3mm free play

That was the issue in the first place. I had absolutely 0 free play, to the point where I could hardly get it from N to 1. The friction zone was practically the last bit of lever release. Today it is MUCH better.
 
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