Clunky gear shifting ?

[TOMCAT]

Roughy , mine was actually jumping out of gear between 1st and 2nd .. it felt like it wasn't clicking into gear properly at all. Warranty job .. I have a contact at Triumph Aust if your Dealer doesn't want to come to the party. Sing out if you need the contact mate

 

[Rough-but-slow]

Mine is similar but it doesn't jump out sometimes it is as good as gold. But it is only between 1st & 2nd & as it has 20k on it so I don't like my chances with warranty. On reading up on it sounds like it is that detent is probably not that hard to do. I really don't want to leave it to long just in case something major happens. Seems strange that it feels like there is a bit of drive line backlash though. Thanks for the help.

 

[CanberraR3]

When my detent spring went the changes were pretty much as before; it just wouldn't stay in gear. If you're not jumping out of gear the problem might be something else. Your detent could be on the way out but maybe look at your clutch adjustment before pulling anything apart. When was your last oil change?

The neutral light not working is probably unrelated. The gear position sensor at the back left of motor could need a clean. Undo the two bolts and pull it out - no need to disconnect any wires. Clean the little spring loaded pin too and as you tighten it back up move it around a little to find the sweet spot. If this isn't clear, send me a PM.

 

[Rough-but-slow]

Changed oil 1000k ago clutch adjusted 2 to 3mm aas per the manual. When I bought it I reckon the oil had never been changed & have now done it twice with penrite racing 10 10w/40w. Maybe it's no good might get someone else to ride it to test. Thanks for the response.

 

[idk]

Check your clutch adjustment. That is the first quick and easy step. It has to be right or you will have problems.

I don't know that oil. Is it formulated for wet clutches? Regular car oil may stuff up your clutch.

 

[Rough-but-slow]

Yeah that oil is specified for R 3 it's full synthetic but I might try something else before getting to carried away with repairs.

 

[kaivalagi]

Not sure about that oil to be honest, looking at it's spec's there is no mention of MA/MA2 or JASO specifications at all, which are the norm for bike clutches/gearboxes. Although it does state on the website page:
"Racing 10 is suitable for use in competition applications and for on road use in passenger car and light commercial vehicles. It is also suitable for use in four stroke motorcycles with wet clutches."

Here's what I am using in another bike right now which I'll likely use in my R3R when an oil change is needed, note the MA2 and JASO rating: http://www.shell.co.uk/gbr/products...4-stroke-engine-oils/shell-advance-ultra.html

Maybe they make mention of these specs for the Penrite oil somewhere else?

 

[STRIPES]

I noticed after my upgraded gears, they were more "clunky" which makes sense. There are fewer "dogs" on the side of the gears and the dogs are more robust....thicker. The slots they slide into are fewer but wider. Therefore more "play" for easier engagement and more "clunk". Don't think you have a problem. When looking into a trans case, it looks like it ought to be going in a truck.

 

[kaivalagi]

Got to admit when going from Neutral to 1st there is a big clunk for me, this is on a brand new 2014 (2014 model) bike, just part of the bike's character IMO...I do get a smaller clunk from 1st to 2nd but this does depend on speed.....

I would still double check that oil for the right specs just to rule it out, and comparing clunks on an internet forum isn't very scientific, if you're concerned you need to find a fellow owner and compare clunks in person I'd say

 

[CanberraR3]

That clunk into 1st is good. In fact, if you don't get it there's a chance of it jumping out of first under load. If I'm not moving I always let the clutch out in neutral before engaging 1st and it will clunk when I go into gear. Before I figured that out mine popped out of 1st a couple of times as I accelerated and it's not nice.