Chasin a Gremlin.....

I am no way an expert , I would check the connector that goes to the coils from ECU and see if there isn't a terminal lose in the plug ??? Then check terminal plugs to the injector ?
 
I have a "spare" 05 engine, with all it's components. In the beginning, (sounds like we're in church), Came back from a ride to the Diner, and at my gate, it was missing, and found it was #1 dead. So I changed that coil. Checked the primary wires, tightened etc. No difference. And after many other things, I swapped out #2 and #3 coils. Also at one time, #2 went dead, and #1 was running ??? Swapped #2 injector, NO difference. Bought the "noid" lights, and I am getting a pulse signal from the ECU, to the injectors, and the coils. Even ran a continunity test from the wiring socket at the ECU, pins B05, B06, B17, to injectors #1, #2, and #3. All good. It just seems to be all out of timing. The way it is now, when you start it up, "IF" it were a V8 engine, I'd swear they had the wrong firing order hooked up. Also just for info, I also had all 3 injectors out of throttle body, still connected, and spraying fuel, and spark at the plugs. They just don't seem to be playing nice with one another ????? Another similary thing, like in the old days, when you'd get moisture in the distributor cap.... I just dunno. I, (we) will figure it out sooner or later. Gonna give it a few days off, and think, and read suggestions.;)
 
I thought it was running well after switching around the vacuum lines, then problems arose again while trying to sync the throttle bodies....

"sorted out the vacuum hoses to the map sensor. Yup, I had them all wrong. PRESTO! She's running pretty good now,"
next post... "she will light up the tire in second gear WOT !!!!!". next post..."While adjusting the throttle bodies, it all went south."

You've probably already tried it, but if not.... have you attempted to adjust the throttle bodies again just for s...s and giggles? You had it (close), then "While adjusting the throttle bodies, it all went south." You must have concluded (perhaps correctly) that you were having trouble adjusting the throttle bodies because of some other issue.
 
Yes, while trying to balance the throttles, it suddenly dropped #2, and would not fire, EVEN with throttle input. From my past experience, un-balanced will cause idle problems, but all 3 cylinders will chime in, with a little throttle input. On mine, #2 stayed dead, no matter what, and I had no hair left to pull out. When I go back out to it, I'm going to pull the tank out of the way, pull the throttle bodies, closely check the boots, gaskets/"O" rings, compression test. Slowly re-assemble, checking the injectors, checking for spark at the plugs, etc. etc. Also to note, when I first had this problem, I went and ordered new plugs, as I figured why not. So with the new plugs in, either plug from #2 has the kind of light tan/charcol color of a new plug running look, not much different from the other two cylinders. So it is running, from time to time........... just more confusion to add. o_O o_O o_O o_O o_O o_O
Tried: different coils, different injectors, different CPS, different ECU
 
I would take a can of wd40 and spray the thottle aprings and wot and let fly shut. Mine have stuck several times over the years i never took the time to find out what cylender it dropped but i suppose it would b possible if it was sticky to change cylenders.
The other thing to try is to unplug the electric wires on map sensor. I have never tried this on a rocket but on cars they usssualy run bad at first and then the ecu sets a value and runs good.
 
I have also tried a second throttle body. The MAP sensor is the only thing I don't have a duplicate of to try. It does make a difference when unplugged, but no improvement. Also get a slight difference when pinching each vacuum line, going to the MAP sensor, so I guess it is doing something.
 
Ok when setting there idleing and missing on #2
Hit #2 with a shot of starting fluid to see what happens
herman
 
OK! I said earlier in this post, "IF" this turned out to be something stupid on my part, I would admit and post it. As suggested, yesterday, I grabbed my can of brake cleaner that I had been using to clean all the electrical connections, and gave the throttle body boots, a quick blast. #1 and #3 OK, On #2, it reved up like it had a shot of nitrous. So, removed the two bolts that secure the throttle body on, and with a slight bump, it fell off. I discovered you have to open the boot clamps to almost the last thread, in order to get the throttle body to "sorta snap" into the groove of the boot. Another discovery! The fuel rail of a 2015 does not fit on an 2005/6. Early frames have a bracket under the frame on the left side, for the bear claw rubber mount. The 2015 fuel rail makes contact with that bracket. I had not noticed that, and when trying to mount the throttle body with the fuel line connected, was causing "fit" problems. Got the throttle body correctly installed last evening, and fired it up, but still running like puke. However, I'm hoping that today, after I connect Tune Ecu, I can get it closer to being sorted out. Still confused about the crank position sensor. I have one from an 05, that measures 575 ohms, and one from a 2015, that measures 1.2K ohms. Also found the part numbers are different for the two years ??? 2006 T1290984 2015 T1290987 ????
I'll get to her later. Also been busy trying to repair a water leak "UNDER" my mobile home. Slithering around like a snake on it's belly. I'm too old for dis chit!:banghead:
 
i usually never recommend the 12 minute tune but in your case because the ecu has adapted to a large intake leak i think it would be wise to do the 12 minute tune and see if that improves the running.
the way i understand it is when u have a large intake leak the ecu will change the fuel trims(to maximum) and so need 12 tune.
 
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