Hi all ,
Checking the oil of my new r3r and cant read the level on the silver dipstick I can only lay it on some tissue to see roughly where it is . Is it the same for you all ?
Typical machinist scales have lines that are .005"-.007" thick been splitting them lines for years. Oh and as for Vernier scales the only 4 place decimal vernier scaling I'm aware of is on the Barrel of the micrometer. Your other vernier calipers and depth scales typically give only 3 place decimal ruff measurements. Also I am speaking english units not metric.
Typical machinist scales have lines that are .005"-.007" thick been splitting them lines for years. Oh and as for Vernier scales the only 4 place decimal vernier scaling I'm aware of is on the Barrel of the micrometer. Your other vernier calipers and depth scales typically give only 3 place decimal ruff measurements. Also I am speaking english units not metric.
FYI - as I hope you know, I was merely poking fun at your old eyes.
These days, no way could I read a Vernier with any accuracy!
First, Amigo, let's get a decent look at yous:
Been a lot of years for me, but your pix does NOT look Imperial. Please correct me if incorrect?
Looks to be 1.24 cm ( I'm guessing metric since the gap is no where near 1.24 inches.
If so, I would reckon not too accurate. Sorry about all the rust, shouldn't leave them things out in the snow.
The Vernier I would use would be more like this:
0.5783 ±.001"
It was the old Vernier calipers that gave me fits and why a jig-bore was used to inspect needed tolerances of ±.0002"
FYI -
Back in the dark ages, Back in the times we weren't blessed with calculators, that did trigonometric functions and square roots, it was really hard to locate holes really accurately. We didn't have digital readouts that indicates where the table is to a ten thousandth. You had to be a real machinist. When you're splitting a thousandth of an inch, you couldn't rely on your average milling machine lead screw, and micrometer dials. You needed a machine with lead screws that were accurate, dials that could split a thousandth. You needed a jig bore. Designed not for milling, but for the accurate placement of holes. The tables were moved in X and Y and the quill moved in Z. The jig borer was developed primarily to fill a need for precisely locating holes in jigs and dies. There has been a quantum leap in accuracy in machine tools in the last fifty years, and jig bores are getting to be pretty hard to find in a production shop. But if you want to bore a hole that's perfectly square to the table, or if you need absolute location accuracy for one off parts, the machine is hard to beat. I use a Moore Jig Bore in my machine tool manufacturing company when I'm boring holes in a small run of parts. It's a wonderful machine tool. With it's quick to change tool holders, incredible mass, and a spindle that's dead nuts square to the table, it's hard to beat. Especially when you can get a jig bore for what they sell for these days. For a Home Machinist, it probably shouldn't be your first tool - get a good mill, but still even today there's a place for these great tools in production shops.
Mine is english standard you are just really looking at the vernier scale on it. But from what your mic reads I would agree with your except the allowance for variation is +/- .0001 since your using the vernier scale. As for my eyes well I figure I'm lucky as some of the tri-focal work was at the sugestion of the doctor once he found out my trade background. In fact he was the one that told me he would give me the vernier caliper treatment.
All this talk of verniers, I've still got the triple beam balance I swiped from the chemistry lab in 8th grade. But my micrometer has been missing a couple years, I figure it's got to turn up now that I'm moving.
As a lad in the apprentice shop I could read a good quality Moore & Wright steel rule to within.005”. Nowadays I can’t remember where I left the bloody thing!