Buggered: challenge with calipers and brake pads

Hmmmm,,,,, He ain't no politician... ;)

Reverse drill bits, shocking the bolt with a punch/hammer, heat and just plain replacing the whole shebang can work. Choosing your poison depends on your skill set and tools on hand. I have used heat, drilling, various easy outs, welding, shock therapy, reverse drilling and just plain replacement over the years. Your call, but it can be done, especially with @TURBO200R4 's offer.
 
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Well, as Patton said, "I'm no diplomat!" I don't have much to lose trying Sonny's way. Now that I know what to look for. Found out a reverse drill bit is what's also known as a, "left hand" drill bit. For $8.99 the local Harbor Freight has a set that has both extractors and reverse drill bits. Screw Extractor and Left-Hand Drill Bit Combo Set, 10 Pc.
 
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Both retaining pins on my calpers were over torqued at the factory. Used a left handed drill bit or reverse whatever you call it and one came out. The other required a easy out. I dropped a bit of anti seize on new pins and have had no problems since. Have changed brake pads several times since then.
 
Not going to spend a lot of time on this
I think easy out will bottom w/o grabbing threads so u can put on grinder and grind down so that the easy out thread will grab
 
Just be careful with ezi outs.
You drill a hole in the pin, bolt, stud etc to get the ezi out in, but what can happen is if the hole is too big there is not enough material left in the wall (Bolt/stud after you have drilled the hole) then when you start to apply force in the L/H direction to remove the stud you actually expand the stud so therefore bind the darn thing in there tighter.
I've had minimal success with these things over the years so just be careful, the pin may well let go and come out but if it doesn't easily enough don't force it, breaking an ezi out in the hole is not a nice outcome.

I've used this stuff before it works very well.
The penetrating substance gets in and the freezing agent shrinks the stud etc.

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Well, as it turns out, it took a combination of several different ideas to break that pin lose. My brother-in-law wanted to come over to chit chat and while he was here I roped him into working on it. He has far more experience with troubles like this on cars and bikes and machinery. Between the two of us trying different things over an hour or so we finally got that bugger out. First we tried pounding in a larger Allen head, but it would not hold, then using map gas and fearful we would melt the caliper we tried pounding on one of the Harbor Freight extractors. It would not stay in the shallow Allen head hole so I ground down the tip numerous times so it would stay put for awhile at a time. Having nothing but crescent wrenches and vice grips to hold and turn the small square end of the extractor we made no headway. We tried one of my high torque electric drills but that was no go too. He was convinced there was no way to get that pin out without wrecking something. In the end he wanted me to ship it off to you Turbo. Then I decided I had nothing to lose and should go total ape **** on it by drilling the pin out. When we got to about twice the normal Allen head depth of the bolt we tried the extractor again. We pounded it in, and using the crescent wrench on the end it finally spun free! Apparently the extra hole depth gave the extractor enough material to get a good grip. Looking at the pin you would think it was as good as new, no thread damage or corrosion or anything that would explain it being frozen solid in the caliper.

Now I have to find a new pin somewhere. By the way, the left side caliper pin came right out with no unusual effort. Thanks for everyone's input! :thumbsup: 🙂
 
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