Bike won't come down revs!!

The TPS is basically a rheostat (think volume control on your radio). Over time (usually 15-25k miles) the TPS develops a flat spot right around the setting that equates to 2000 rpm (~55 mph in top gear). Some a little higher others a little lower. That's why it "hangs" at those revs. When you kill the engine, the electrical charge holding the armature to the flat spot releases and the armature is allowed to rotate back to the lower position.

Thanks TDragger,
Now that's some good info right there.
First time I've ever heard anyone explain HOW, WHAT, and WHY the TPS goes bad.
good post.
skip
 
hey guys. ordered the Tps. from my dealer. first they quoted me 100 then told me it was an old price from the last faulty one and its 130 now. I haven't done anything w the crank angle sensor. big question now...can anyone tell me WHERE the tps and crank angle sensor are located? LOL. sorry.
 
hey guys. ordered the Tps. from my dealer. first they quoted me 100 then told me it was an old price from the last faulty one and its 130 now. I haven't done anything w the crank angle sensor. big question now...can anyone tell me WHERE the tps and crank angle sensor are located? LOL. sorry.


You guys have it so lucky over there. 250% inflation to get it here at $300.

Crank Angle sensor.
Back of the motor. Black block, 2 wires (in a sleeve) held in by a 6mm bolt with an 8mm head. Has an O-ring so might take a bit of wriggling out of the whole.
Be warned. You will loose a little oil. Best to run the engine for 30 seconds or so to let the pump suck it up. There will still be a little come out no matter what, but not much more than a spoonfull if you run it first.

Secondary TPS.
On the back of the 3rd throttle body. Black block again in a kidney shape held on by a single t27 (I think) hex torque bolt.
Not a lot of room to get into taking that bolt out. Also needs to be set at a correct voltage when re-installed.
You'll need to download the TuneECU program to do it yourself, but it's not difficult even for a dumbass like myself. Will also ask you to set the stepper motor in the next step, so should all work out well in the end.
Have a look for Sticky's on both subjects for a lot more info. Well worth the read.
 
I feel really hard done by, my TPS went south at 4800 miles :mad:, only had the bike a few weeks and was out of warranty. Triumph stumped up for the fix as a good will gesture. :D
 
dielectric grease on the snap in plug worked for my high idle issue and has been fine since. jm2cw but its low cost and easy to do before spending the coin.
 
Good info, ew. I hope that works well as a long term solution.

Just to correct Cobba's comment (sorry my good man, I hope you don't mind, R.I.P.):

The TPS on the 3rd throttle body (most rearward) is the Primary TPS. The Secondary TPS is on the 1st throttle body (most forward).
 
Ok so my high idle issue was creeping back up and I am now wondering if the dielectric grease was the true fix or was the fix just a result of fidgeting with the tps?? So if someone with a high idle issue would please try the solution described below. I have tried this and I am convinced it is the final fix for my high idle issue but would like some feedback from someone else that has similar issue. The fix--- apply some lube (I used dielectric because it was what I had handy and I know it will not degrade any electronic device) to the pin on the back of the tps under the front throttle body. This pin I am describing is inside the small rubber boot. I slid the boot down and swabbed the pin with dielectric grease then repositioned the rubber boot. This fix took only a couple twists of the throttle to fully become apparent. Please execute this and post an evaluation if you currently have a high idle issue. RIDE ON!!!
 
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