Battery Upgrade

[HellFire]

Just finished the PC625 install with the help of Mitch's pictures. I'm conviced the assembly line started with a battery tray and the bike was built around it! Now I know the bike is over engineered. WOW is this thing 8 guage steel? nice to know the battery box is bullet proof. Anyway, the battery slipped right in and is starting the bike fine in sub zero temps. I read a tip earlier in another thread about cycling the key a few times before hitting the starter if it's been sitting for awhile. I tried it out and it works, the extra fuel pressure really helps cut crank time.

 

[STRIPES]

I've been using the 545 for over a year now and just started having cranking trouble. I always used a trickle charger, but after reading this I'm trying a higher amp charger. I just had the Rocket in because the speedo fried. Does anyone think because of low amps?....The Odessey made a big difference last winter as I try to ride as long as no snow or ice is on the road. This year we have a lot of both so it's limited my riding. Love these sites.

My speedo cratered too. The dealer told me they have a recall to replace the wiring harness and is covered by warranty. I undestand it is a bad connection in the harness that is causing the problem.

 

[snuffcityrider]

Interstate Cycle Tron ll #CYTX20HL-BS

Just installed this puppy, time will tell how good it is. I got it for $80. I swear my bikes running stronger?!

 

[GreyFox]

Had enough weak starts

Well, I hope I have learned my lessons on battery choice. I am on #3 since 06. The first two have been babied with the 'battery tender brand' and still didn't hold up. They show fully charged but can't handle the starting current. Thanks Hombre for the info shared early on in this thread. Big difference. Sure you'll ask --- $180 total to convert

 

[Gene Windell]

Battery Box Removal Difficulties

My 3 year old stock battery hadn't been cutting the mustard for cold weather starting of my '06 R3 Std., so I decided to try replacement with a PC 625. Upon attempting to remove the battery box for modification, I tend to agree that the assembly plant started out with the battery box - and then built the rest of the motorcycle around it.

After working on it for about an hour, I'm stuck and am looking for some advice. The metal battery box is attached at several points to a hard, black plastic shield which fits underneath and to the rear of the battery box. I'm assuming this black, plastic shield stays in place and the metal battery box must be unscrewed from it for removal. Several of the screws holding the battery box to the plastic shield have their heads facing downward, and some of which are facing the rear and are inside the rear fender.

It appears that the easiest way to reach these difficult-to-access screws would be to remove the rear wheel, and preferably lift the bike 18" off the ground. Alternatively, it may be time for me to invest in some 6" and 12" socket extensions, along with a universal joint, which may (or may not) enable me to reach around the rear tire to access the rear-facing screws heads.

If anyone has any specific tips on how to get a wrench on those difficult-to-access screws, I'd sure appreciate the help.

 

[HellFire]

My 3 year old stock battery hadn't been cutting the mustard for cold weather starting of my '06 R3 Std., so I decided to try replacement with a PC 625. Upon attempting to remove the battery box for modification, I tend to agree that the assembly plant started out with the battery box - and then built the rest of the motorcycle around it.

After working on it for about an hour, I'm stuck and am looking for some advice. The metal battery box is attached at several points to a hard, black plastic shield which fits underneath and to the rear of the battery box. I'm assuming this black, plastic shield stays in place and the metal battery box must be unscrewed from it for removal. Several of the screws holding the battery box to the plastic shield have their heads facing downward, and some of which are facing the rear and are inside the rear fender.

It appears that the easiest way to reach these difficult-to-access screws would be to remove the rear wheel, and preferably lift the bike 18" off the ground. Alternatively, it may be time for me to invest in some 6" and 12" socket extensions, along with a universal joint, which may (or may not) enable me to reach around the rear tire to access the rear-facing screws heads.

If anyone has any specific tips on how to get a wrench on those difficult-to-access screws, I'd sure appreciate the help.

I got to them with 1/4 swivel drive sockets and long extension. If you don't have a center stand or a lift, taking the rear tire off is a *****.

 

[HellFire]

Just finished the PC625 install with the help of Mitch's pictures. I'm conviced the assembly line started with a battery tray and the bike was built around it! Now I know the bike is over engineered. WOW is this thing 8 guage steel? nice to know the battery box is bullet proof. Anyway, the battery slipped right in and is starting the bike fine in sub zero temps. I read a tip earlier in another thread about cycling the key a few times before hitting the starter if it's been sitting for awhile. I tried it out and it works, the extra fuel pressure really helps cut crank time.

I'd like to update this a little .....

The Odyssey battery worked wonderful the 1st cold season it was installed, I think mainly because it was properly charged prior to me recieving it. I used a regular battery maintainer (a Jr.) and it also worked fine over the summer, but things got iffy after the 1st freeze this year. I was having to jump start the bike if it sat a week or more in the cold, they have to crank a bit as you know. The maintainer Jr. just wasn't cutting it. I re-read the threads about dry cells requiring a bigger charge and voltage spike algorithms built into the charger, broke down and bought an odyssey charger. It worked, the new charger solved the problem and we are all happy again . The new charger plugged right into the Jr's pig tail lead already on the bike with no changes needed. On the Odyssey charger, you push a button to start the sequence of charging and it said the battery was in need of charging according to the readout (and this was after unpugging the Jr. with a green light showing). So, if any of you are experiencing similar trouble starting the bike in the cold using a PC625 Odyssey battery ... you could be in the same boat.
Just thought you should know.

 

[rocket31998]

I'd like to update this a little .....

The Odyssey battery worked wonderful the 1st cold season it was installed, I think mainly because it was properly charged prior to me recieving it. I used a regular battery maintainer (a Jr.) and it also worked fine over the summer, but things got iffy after the 1st freeze this year. I was having to jump start the bike if it sat a week or more in the cold, they have to crank a bit as you know. The maintainer Jr. just wasn't cutting it. I re-read the threads about dry cells requiring a bigger charge and voltage spike algorithms built into the charger, broke down and bought an odyssey charger. It worked, the new charger solved the problem and we are all happy again . The new charger plugged right into the Jr's pig tail lead already on the bike with no changes needed. On the Odyssey charger, you push a button to start the sequence of charging and it said the battery was in need of charging according to the readout (and this was after unpugging the Jr. with a green light showing). So, if any of you are experiencing similar trouble starting the bike in the cold using a PC625 Odyssey battery ... you could be in the same boat.
Just thought you should know.

I couldn't understand why my new Odyssey was barely turning her over when I got it. When I got the Odyssey charger, it was only reading 1 bar out of 5. Must have sat around at the dealer I bought it from (Battery Warehouse) for a while!

 

[BehereNow]

Gene Windell

I just used a razor blade to shave down the fins on the battery. Less than 1" up from the bottom, all around and it slipped right in.
Coarse emory paper would do it too.

 

[Gene Windell]

Battery Odyssey

I wanted to thank everyone for the advice I asked for, which was most helpful. As it happens, I needed to replace my rear tire anyway - so while my rear wheel was off I was more easily able to get the battery box removed. By the way, I went dark with a Dunlop Sport SP Signature 225/55R-16 and so far I love it. I only wish my story ended here.

First I should say that I have a battery charger which can meet the Odyssey PC-625's uncommonly high charging voltage requirements of 14.1 to 14.7 volts, and that I used a digital multimeter to check the battery's open circuit voltage before and after riding the bike. Keep in mind here that according to the PC 625 Owner's Manual, the OCV must be 12.84 volts or higher to be at 100% charge. 12.50 volts is 75% charge.

The first time I went riding with the new battery it was fully charged, and quickly started the engine with the temperature at about 35 degrees. After riding continuously for about an hour (with my fog lamps on), I was pulling into a parking lot when the engine sputtered and died. The engine was able to start up again, but was running rough, and the yellow engine fault light in the speedometer had come on. I immediately parked the bike, and let it set for a few hours while watching a HS wrestling tournament. When I returned to the bike, I disconnected the Ground Cable from the battery for about a minute , thinking it might "re-set" the ECU. The R3 then started up and ran smoothly for 2 more hours, but the engine fault light stayed on all the while. When I got home, I used the multimeter to test the battery voltage ang got a reading of 12.5 volts. So the battery had gone from 100% charge to 75% charge in about 3 hours of riding (with fog lights turned on). I connected the battery charger, and let it charge over night.

Undaunted, I decided to go riding again the next day. I verified that the PC-625 was charged to 100%. Of course, the engine started right up - but the yellow engine fault light was still on. I rode for several hours, but at slower speeds (lower engine RPMs). When I was about 20 miles from home the weather was starting to look like rain, and as I was approaching a stop sign I switched on my fog lights. About 3 seconds later, the engine sputtered and died. It was able to start up again, but was running very rough. As I got back onto the highway, I noticed that the higher I could keep the engine RPMs, the smoother it would run. I finally reached my little home town, and as I approached the first intersection the traffic signal light was red. As I slowed to a stop, the engine died. But this time it wouldn't restart. In fact, switching the key from Off to On got no response at all - as though the machine had no battery connected at all. So I pushed it off the road, and I was about to park it and walk away when I tried to start it one last time. Thank goodness! it fired up, and I rode it the final mile to my house. I checked the voltage on the battery, and got a reading of 12.3 volts.

Having again recharged the battery to 100%, the next day I started up the R3 and rode the 60 miles to my nearest Triumph dealer. The yellow engine fault light was on for about the first half of my high RPM interstate highway trip, but then it went off and didn't come on again.

The Triumph service department called me today and said they checked everything out, and couldn't find anything wrong. This is exactly what I expected they would say.

I think Hellfire had mentioned somewhere that replacing his ignition switch had corrected some miscellaneous electrical problems - including intermitant charging problems. I mention that now because there have been times when I pushed my starter button - and nothing happened. Are there any other suggestions, other than returning to a stock battery?