Battery drain due to ignition bypass?

I have simular problem but I don'I think the battery get's drained just temporarily inoperative because of some other problem. I have only had to jump once away from home, the rest of the time it finally starts but is very sluggish. The batter shows to have 14volts +. I thought I had my problem solved but I don't. I have gone through 4 batteries, progressively getting more amps. I have doubled the gauge of wire going to starter and ground. I have inspected ignition switch, fuses, and I have cleaned starter switch. The next possibility I can think of is that maybe my starter relay is defective. After reading this tread, I think maybe I need another starter.

Can I get a relay at a autoparts store or do I need to go with original equipment relay? Where would be a good place to get starter?

There is of course always the option to fit a Battery Isolator switch - Then it cant drain.

I have a simular problem but don't think the battery is draining, I think that something is keeping power from getting to starter. I have done the the suggested things such as heavier wire to starter and ground, inspecting starter switch and cleaning, inspecting ignition switch, installing beaver kit, and longer bolts in battery which is a 36 amp Shorai. Maybe I need a starter relay or after reading this post need a different starter. Can I get a relay at a auto parts store or do I need to go to Triumph dealer? Where is a good place to get a replacement starter.

Have you tried running cables STRAIGHT to the starter ? - bypass all relays etc:

I got the new 4 gauge negative lead installed, just tried to start and it wouldnt. DAMMIT! Do I have to put this junk away until stinkin May?!!! WTF? Next step is a starter from a car? Pissed off in MD...

Sum*****!!- 2 hours of charging and it still wouldnt start after work tonight! Holy !@%$. This is getting ridiculous! I had to leave that junk at work as I didnt have any jumper cables. Its like its not even charging. I didnt swap out the bolts on the battery when I made the new cable, so I guess I will check that thread for how to do this. I have no aptitude for this stuff.
Barbagris, how would I run cables straight to the starter? Thanks for all the posts.

It was asked and I will ask you again because I cannot find your answer. What type of ignition bypass did you do? Are your talking keyless or ignition relocation or just a head light EB mod?

CvSisinthehouse said:

Barbagris, how would I run cables straight to the starter? Thanks for all the posts.

Click to expand...

Well - To test - use Jumper cables from battery to starter.

There are serious advantages to running a SMALLISH LiFePO4 battery in parallel to the Lead/Acid (be it liquid/AGM or Gel). LiFePO4 will keep volts high whilst lead acid tend to pump Amps in preference. On the R3 I've not had to - but on the modified Guzzi I do this.

CvSisinthehouse said:

Ok I will look for a larger cable. I have started it in the morning sometimes, ridden 15 miles to work, then 9 hours later it doesn't start. The bike is outside while I am at work and I do have the electric gloves going on while riding. I charged it Thursday night overnight, then it started Friday morning, and luckily it was almost 60 degrees Friday so I didn't have to charge it, but it was kind of weak. I will search for the larger cable thread. Thanks for the replies.

Click to expand...

OK - this maybe part of your problem. imo you're not replacing the charge used to start.

A 15mile ride is probably NOT replacing the wattage used to start first thing - especially not if you have high load ancillaries on. On average I'd say 20 miles with little or no extra load minimum. It's why my bikes get a decent 40-50mile run at least once a week. Even if it means near frostbite. The old mechanic's ROT was 20miles at no electrical load too - learned this from my uncle who had a garage in the '60's. This for cars where alternators spin faster so charge faster as well as churning out more amps.

My analysis of my R3 determined that with both Halogen headlights on - plus both Halogen fog lights pus some other small stuff - and the charging system only JUST managed to keep pace. It's why I fitted LED lighting. For 15 mile ride - get heated gloves with built in battery.

I had VERY similar symptoms to these on my 4x4 this summer - simply the earth wire from engine to chassis had fractured - So it read high volts but could not deliver amps. As long as stuff like the AC or lights were off - it could JUST charge enough. Being an OLD Diesel it needs no power once running so took longer to drain.

I did the Beaver headlight/ignition bypass, the one from the guy in Japan. I will probably take it to a bike shop. I appreciate all the posts, but I have no aptitude for this stuff. I still think this is related to this Beaver part I put on, as I had no problems last winter without it. Oil changes and painting parts, thats what I am comfortable with.