Basic TuneECU Questions

Protonhound

Supercharged
Joined
Apr 28, 2023
Messages
218
Location
Calaveras County, California
Ride
2023 Rocket 3R
I have read lots of stuff on the TuneECU site and here for the last few months and also watched a bunch of videos. I have connected to the ECU and registered my bike so far. This is what I'm wondering about:
1) Since TuneECU can only communicate with the ECU with the bike in the 'Run' position there is a motor (fuel pump?) running the whole time, is that normal?
2) I deleted the OBDLink app from my phone after updating just in case it wants to talk to the adapter at the wrong time. Is that necessary?
3) To my knowledge only modifications that cause a failure/defect would void a warranty. Since the Penner tune is a known quantity and has worked reliably for many here I don't see that being an issue. Making sure I hit the rev limits during my break-in period has made the throttle restrictions painfully obvious especially since I've seen those stock maps. So what say you?
 
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1) Don’t understand the fuel pump question. Tuneecu needs enough voltage to the ecu to write a map. What is your battery voltage with the ignition on and the headlight fuse removed?

2) From this, it looks like the OBDLink app has to be running to check the firmware in the module.


3) The warranty law is straightforward in principle. Whether you are ever in a position where a dealer might give you trouble is probably less likely than problems that might arise from the extra 30 hp.
 
The TuneECU website says only that the bike's ignition has to be "on", not in "run". You can toggle the ignition switch upward to turn on the ignition without switching it down to the run position. Is there something in the software saying it needs to be in the "run" position?
 
1) Don’t understand the fuel pump question. Tuneecu needs enough voltage to the ecu to write a map. What is your battery voltage with the ignition on and the headlight fuse removed?

2) From this, it looks like the OBDLink app has to be running to check the firmware in the module.


3) The warranty law is straightforward in principle. Whether you are ever in a position where a dealer might give you trouble is probably less likely than problems that might arise from the extra 30 hp.
Thanks for replying,
1) When the bike is in the 'Run' position (one click down on the switch) there is a noise that sounds like a small electric motor which stays on as long the switch is on. That does not happen when it's 'On' (one click up) but then in that position there is no ECU connection.

2) I used the OBDLink app to update the firmware on the adapter already and deleted it after just to eliminate any off chance it might want want to talk to the adapter at the wrong time.

3) I know the warranty thing is a crapshoot, I really care more about the throttle restrictions than anything and can do those myself but the Penner tune just seems to make the bike run better from what I've read.
 
The TuneECU website says only that the bike's ignition has to be "on", not in "run". You can toggle the ignition switch upward to turn on the ignition without switching it down to the run position. Is there something in the software saying it needs to be in the "run" position?
When in the 'on' position I get this message:
ECU is not responding
Check cable connection...

I will have to start the whole pairing process again then, the only time I was able to connect to the ECU was in the "run" mode so far.
 
When in the 'on' position I get this message:
ECU is not responding
Check cable connection...

I will have to start the whole pairing process again then, the only time I was able to connect to the ECU was in the "run" mode so far
i am going to guess that the upper position is more like an accessary position.
 
I don’t think it matters whether you mess with the stock tune or Penner does. The issue is changing it from OEM. Sounds like the ecu isn’t getting power from “on”.
 
I don’t think it matters whether you mess with the stock tune or Penner does. The issue is changing it from OEM. Sounds like the ecu isn’t getting power from “on”.
Yup, I'm going to put this on the back burner for a while. I am still wondering why whatever that electric motor like noise is that goes on the entire time it's in the 'run' position though.
 
Yup, I'm going to put this on the back burner for a while. I am still wondering why whatever that electric motor like noise is that goes on the entire time it's in the 'run' position though.
its fuel pump and injector noise
 
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