A little help please Turn signals 2015 R3T ABS

So as I stated in my other thread my signals stopped working Saturday.

Tonight I

Checked the bulbs OK
Checked the fuse OK (Brake light and horn are on same fuse and work)

Got out the manual and stared working through the circuit. It seems whatever controls the indicators is in the instrument assembly.

Took the Instrument Assembly off. Unplugged it and plugged it back in making sure the plug is seated. After doing this the left indicators seem to be working, but the right does not and when I activate the switch I see the lights on the instrument console dim for a second.

This is leading me to believe that the fault has to be in the instrument cluster. There is no relay or blinker in the circuit that i can see and knowing that the blinkers are auto cancelling it makes sense that the issue is in the console.

There is a Diode Pack in the circuit, but I believe this sends the signal to cancel the turn signals from the instrument cluster.

There is no breakdown of the circuits in the instrument console that I can find.

One thing that perplexes me is I do not see the ignition switch in the complete electrical diagram?

Anyway can someone verify my logic on this.

Thanks

So I guess everyone is stumped on this question?

I hadn't seen this until now

I would think it unlikely you have an instrument failure

Your understanding of how it works is essentially correct except in the power for the signals is NOT common to the brake and horn (as indeed it is on the classics/roadster) -

The most common issue associated with the turn signals is in the signals' sockets themselves, very poor piece of hardware - VERY easy for the terminals to either short to ground or NOT to the bulb itself.
Fact that the dash dims probably means its looking at a short - the instrument panel I believe has protected solid-state outputs so does not 'fry' but protects itself

I would look to the sockets as the primary source of the issue.

That's what I said:

Who needs turn signals anyway

Dude, until you've confirmed all four sockets are good, you're going to be chasing your tail.

DEcosse said:

I hadn't seen this until now

I would think it unlikely you have an instrument failure

Your understanding of how it works is essentially correct except in the power for the signals is NOT common to the brake and horn (as indeed it is on the classics/roadster) -

The most common issue associated with the turn signals is in the signals' sockets themselves, very poor piece of hardware - VERY easy for the terminals to either short to ground or NOT to the bulb itself.
Fact that the dash dims probably means its looking at a short - the instrument panel I believe has protected solid-state outputs so does not 'fry' but protects itself

I would look to the sockets as the primary source of the issue.

Click to expand...

Thanks I have been going through the circuit again this morning.

The only reason I mentioned the horn and brake light is they share the same fuse.

The left ones are working intermittently. The right ones are totally dead.

Took the switch apart and it is functioning correctly. With the meter across the left ones when working I can see the voltage going on an off. Thank god for analog meters LOL.

I will dig deeper into the turn signals and the cables that feed them.

BillyIndiana said:

...The only reason I mentioned the horn and brake light is they share the same fuse.... .

Click to expand...

No, on a Touring, they don't

@BillyIndiana Repeat after me, "I will check all four turn signal sockets. I will do nothing else until I check all four turn signal sockets."

This is an easy do as they are simply press fit in the housing. A pair of needle nose pliers to carefully separate the tiny blade connectors, and you'll have the socket in your hands to inspect the flimsy contacts, and readjust if necessary.

So I found the connectors for all 4 turn signals.
Unplugged the back ones. Both sides work on front.
Plugged in the left rear. works fine.
Plugged in the right rear failed.

Did I tell you how much I love you.

You really, I mean REALLY need to pull out the sockets, and check the contacts. And once you do that, shouldn't have to deal with (as long as you are the one dealing with your bike) for a loooooong time. Mine was messed up from the dealer (either they ham fisted the bulbs at uncrating, or the factor did on initial assembly). Classic frustrating electrical problem -- worked fine for a couple of years, then -- just like you -- and others -- problems. You could be facing latent problems in the other three you think are working fine.

This is easy enough to do, just do it.

Feelings mutual.

I will be d@mned.

The wiring harness was loose under the rear wheel well.
I will post pictures later.
I got a mess to clean up.
All that soldering training from the Air Force is going to pay off.