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Issue: Initial power cycle doesn't happen, so start button does nothing
Symptoms:
With ignition key to on:
Fuel pump does not spin up / prime
Limited instrument lights
- neutral light out, high beam works
- yellow engine light out, oil light on
- gas gauge inop
- starter switch doesn't engage starter / press it, nothing happens
- That lack of a power-up cycle seems to be the issue. Like when you leave the kill switch engaged, nothing happens when you turn the key.
Some good clues here:
The first one is that the Oil light is ON - that indicates that the ignition circuit, through the Key -> Fuse 5 -> Instruments is
GOOD
That is really important piece of data.
You can validate this if you like by checking for 12V at Fuse 5 - put your meter -ve probe on battery negative and touch red probe to the metal tabs on top of the fuse - no need to remove the fuse!
You should have 12V at both sides of fuse 5 when key is on.
All of the stuff I highlighted in
RED is because the ECU is not powered.
So - we know that the ignition circuit is good at the instruments - that same line then goes via the kill/run switch and then through the alarm connector interlock before going to the ECU
So step 1 - find the alarm connector - it is under the tank on right side
Check that the bypass plug is fully seated in the main-harness connector and is 'locked/latched' in place - pull on the two black wire loops in the bypass and ensure that they are not loose or broken.
Try to probe into the terminals with your meter if you can (use a needle or pin if you need something finer to contact the terminals or even puncture through the insulation of the wire loop)
You should have 12V at pin1 and pin 2 (pins 1 & 2 are the 'short' loop' - see below)
- if you do NOT have 12V there with Kill Switch set to Run, then problem with the Kill/Run switch or connections to it,
If you do NOT, then find the connector coming from the right bar-switch and check that it is fully engaged and locked in place.
If that checks out but you do not have 12V at pins 1 & 2 of that alarm connector, please report and I will give further instruction for pursuing this path
If you DO have 12V at pins 1 & 2, then next potential issue would be the Main ECU Relay
First check for power at both sides of Fuse 6 (using method described above)
If that is good then I would look to the relay itself as being a problem
Let me know how you get on with the above tests and I will be able to tell more from those results.
I'm not
too far away from you - house call is not out of the question if we can't resolve remotely