Wiring GPS, Lights, Powerlet

I pulled the tank and wired the bike up w/ the above accessories. I used triumph's factory accessory outlet installed as triumph recommends at L of bike near airbox location, but chose to run my own "always on" leads to a FuzeBlock to be sure I had a steady source of power for battery charging and other uses if the bike was off. I didn't know if the factory kit would always have power even if bike was switched off for lengthy period. With Denali D2 lights, I cut off everything except power to the lights, and ran the leads to a switched circuit of the fuzeblock. I won't be able to turn the lights off if the bike is on. I am ok with that. The 2022 Rocket didn't have wiring room or space for me to comfortably wire all the stuff that would be needed to run my own independent switch. I did not bother considering any chance that I would use the Denali option of one day wiring the lights to illuminate brighter with the bike's high beam. Don't need that feature, and again, too much wire and mess for me to deal with in order to take advantage of that option. The trigger wire to turn on the relay in the Fuzeblock is a conveniently located yellow wire, easily visible as part of a 3-wire white plug at the L of the seat well. I meticulously tied into this- anytime i tap into wiring, I spend a long time with solder and heat heatshrink and good cloth /nylon electrical tape. I did this same job on a 2020 Rocket 3, and these pics are from the job on a 2022 model, Triple Black, for my fiancé. Everything works as desired. GPS and Denali lights turn on and off with bike power, and the Powerlet socket does what I want, always on, and is well- located for running heated gear in the cold months.

I'm bumping this old thread, to report a precipitous decline in these DIN ISO 4165 (Hella) power connectors that now are ubiquitously made in China. Aside from the Hella and Bosch German versions that are sporadically available, the remainder of these products online now are complete junk. I completed the installation of an outlet provided by the latest incarnation of Powerlet. The socket itself is garbage, with an aluminum barrel (expect copious corrosion), and the connection to the positive pin is intermittent. Not only that, but the harness connections were not crimped properly--one of them spontaneously disconnected.

These connectors once were reliable and worked, but today the Chinese race to the bottom has ruined the whole deal, unless you manage to find the geniune German connectors and use proper wiring and components.

I do have a suggestion for a plug that works at least as well as these ISO 4165's. After this fiasco I have been using Neutrik Speakon connectors, specifically the NL2FX and NM2MP-XX, which have a more than adequate current rating at 12 VDC for this application. Their normal application is in professional audio systems. The Neutrik Speakon connectors are quick disconnect and self-latching, so that they cannot be inadvertently pulled out. They require a slightly larger hole than the Powerlet to install properly.