Wireless remote ignition

JoseyR3Wales

Living Legend
Joined
Mar 3, 2007
Messages
4,324
Ride
2014 Victory Vision Tour
Just completed the mod of by passing that piece of "plastic" that Triumph passes off as an ignition switch. I am now wireless to power on/off the bike and it works great. $22 for the wireless key fobs and relay and another $6.75 for a 40 amp relay, plus $15 bucks worth of connectors, heat shrink, do dads and what nots to make it stay in place. Wire was courtesy the job. Much cheaper than a $375 OEM switch and Key plus about $120 labor to install by certified technician trained in poor solder and cheap plastic :mad:

WORKS LIKE A CHARM.

Anyone interested in seeing the pics, step by step?
 
I will do it with a parts list for y'all. I'll start a different thread as a "How To". Just tested mine out to about 75 feet away and it works great.

Please keep in mind that this does away with the electrical part of the switch but the key and switch may still be used as a fork lock.

Once wired, you push the key fob "ON" button and the bike powers up, but you will still have to pull in the clutch and depress the red starter button. Bike stays on and running until you depress the "OFF" button, all goes off:D.
 
Looking forward to the how to guide, I have been running off a toggle switch for about a year now, not wanting to buy a new ignition switch, but also not wanting to fork out the bucks for a ready made keyless ignition either. This seems to be the perfect answer. :cool:
 
I have the pics in Photobucket and I am working on the verbs and adjectives to get this as "easy as pie". If I really break it down to the lowest common denominator I am afraid some might be offended. I can relate the issues I ran into, FOR INSTANCE: If you have installed Rivco Risers on your Rocket, be prepared to have another person assist you for a few moments as the fuel tank will not clear the guages and you will have to remove the rear pivot bolt on the gas tank where the seat meets the tank, to get the tank clear to work under it, raise said tank and hold it while your lovely and talented assistant puts the bolt back through, and then they need to take the "prop rod" out of the clips on the right side under where the tank was and insert it into the holes provided.

If I'm going to make a "sticky" post for future reference, I want to be as accurate as possible.:eek: Electrically speaking, this is not too bad, really. I am a trained electrician but it took a few seconds of thought before I actually started cutting wires.

The options will be wire size, mounting positions, methods, and that's about it. The wiring/function is pretty cut and dried.
 
:D:D:D:D:D For those I have pissed of in the past, here is your chance to laugh at my expense.

I got it all installed, checked connections (check), placement (check), now for the test:):).

Get the key fob out of the package and hit the on button.................................................................nothing, crickets sounds in the background. Touch relay with finger, push button, click. Ok, relay works, click off and on repeatedly, and relay works but bike is still DEAD.:mad:.

Turn around and realize that I only hooked up the power leads to the wireless remote to the battery because I wanted to try that before firing the bike up for safety reasons, all other factory cables still off battery:eek:.

Connect ALL cables, press button, relays fire, guages sweep, lights on, pull in clutch, press start button on bike and music sweet music she cranks right up. Press off button bike stops. Repeat quite a few times and all is well. Walked at least 75 feet away and remote still works but my arms are not long enough to pull in clutch and press start button on bike at that distance .

Eastern Beaver is on the way so next up will be the headlight relays. Right now they are MUCH BRIGHTER with the H4 lamps because I am running through a 40 amp relay, can't wait to get them on their own relays. Gotta go now.
 
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