Winter project; Paint Can Rattle

[Lester532]

I knew I shouldn't have answered the poll about the upgrade kit. Everything was fine then. Guess I should have knocked on some wood on something.

Just got all the damage from my little mishap at RAA4 now she's got the paint can rattle. It's not all the time and only when cold. But it's defiantly the paint can rattle between 1200 and 1500 rpm.

Does anyone have a good parts list to replace the timing chain and gears? Also I'll be replacing the oil pump drive chain while I'm there. Bike Bandit part numbers would be a plus. I have a dealer close but their mechanic so far don't inspire confidence.

My bike is a 2005 built in 2004. I'm not in a big hurry to get started. I'll finish the riding season and start on it when the temperature drops.

 

[Pig9r]

If it's only when cold then I would think it is just the oil pump drive as the cam chain gear would be all of the time. A trustworthy Triumph mechanic told me the oil pump noise causes no harm.

 

[Lester532]

It sounds just like this.

 

[Lester532]

For those of you that have had the paint can rattle,was the fix just the timing chain and gears or was there more involved in the fix?

I,m planning on doing the repair myself. Does anyone have an opinion of bike bandit OEM parts, or should I just purchase parts from my dealer?

Currently my only problems are paint can rattle and and occasional idle issue that might be caused by a primary TPS but so far I don't have any tranny problems. So I probably don't need the full upgrade. And since I'm not the original owner I may not qualify if it did need it.

About the TPS does the voltage have to be set up with a tune boy or by the dealer or can this be set up with a good multimeter.

I don't think the timing chain and gears are beyond my abilities I'm just not sure about the TPS, since I don't have a tune boy.

Any insight into this issue would be apreciated .

 

[biker1059]

Lester, have you asked your dealer if Triumph would do the repair under warranty? Mine was done twice, the last time 9 months out of warranty. The first paint can repair was a new cam chain and bottom gear, the second repair was an upgraded kit. They replaced the cam chain blades with the ones used on the touring model new bottom gear again, new gear key and an upgraded cam chain tensioner. They even changed my oil and replaced my anti freeze. I would personally buy my parts from the Triumph dealer if you do it your self. They will likely have the most updated parts. But if they will give you the part numbers, compare prices with Bikebandit. BTW my bike had 18K miles on it when they did the last cam chain repair. I also have an 05

 

[warp9.9]

Lester Cam chain upgrade is easy to do, but as biker1059 said it would be wise to ask your dealer it might be covered. I do not know who your dealer is but Rpm motorworks in Belleview is a good place and I have heard some good talk about one of the dealers up north also stay away from World of Power sports in Decature I wouldn't let them chaeck the air in a flat tire. If they don't cover it and your going to do the job yourself then call Scott Lukaitis at Freehold Honda Triumph in Jersey 732-462-4881 tell him Scott Szczepaniak sent you to him. You'll pay about 25% less then any other dealer and shipping over 40 bucks is free. You'll probably need chain, new style guides and lower gear. with cover gasket and tensioner gasket. In case your like me the upper gears are not that exspensive either. If you get the fxture for holding the cams in place is about 110 if I remeber right.

 

[Lester532]

Thanks of the advise guys, I hadn't considered a warranty claim I'm not the original owner of my 2005 Rocket and the warranty had been expired for around a year when I bought her in April of last year.

Scott I had the same impression of RPM motorwerks until they worked on my bike. The repairs after my crash in Maggie Valley were an insurance job other wise I would have done the work myself. The heated grip switch, left mirror, and both Flipmeisters wire clamps were left loose. The wire clamps would have dug into the gas tank, and the right fork protector was digging into the fork outer tube. They missed a damaged heat shield in the original estament, this heat shield would have been taken off when the right lower muffler was replaced. The right upper muffler, and windshield were on backorder. I stupidly took it back to them when the rest of the parts came in. Replacing the right upper muffler and wind sheild only took a little over 2 hours, I laughed when I saw the windsheild with all the acorn nuts sticking out the front side but I said screw it I'll fix it my self. I turned back around after 2 blocks to have the fix the massive exhaust leak at the muffler they just put on. 45 minuets later I was heading back down the road. A wrench fell out from under the bike, I did not take it back. The windsheild mounting bolts were not even finger tight. After all this I can't trust them inside my engine.

Scott thanks for the lead about the parts. I will call them when I finalize my plans.

 

[warp9.9]

I guess I have been lucky there then. Of course since I installed the blower I have done all my engine work and will let Gus at Baxter's do my upgrade kit but other then that I will keep turning wrenches. After replacing pistons, liners, heads, timing chains and gears. And having the lower sump, main bearing ladder and baffles out juts to clean. And replacing several lifter shafts along with a few different styles of clutches. I don't see where anything else is going to be any harder. Of course I did all this without having to pull the motor so I can't attest to how hard that is but I figure it isn't as bad as it looks.
Thanks for the tip on RPM Motorwerks.

 

[Sidecar Flip]

Both of you are a lot closer to Marne than I am but it's still my 'local' dealer. My next bike will come from Randy and no one else.

Like thet old saying, "I'd walk a mike for a Camel"....

I'd drive 650 miles for peace of mind.

Besides, I like looking at old bikes and rummaging around in British antiquity.

 

[HeR3tic]

It sounds just like this.

More or less the same noise at generally at the same RPMs, that I have had but getting worse. 1500-1800 seems to have the most rattle level though I hear it at higher rpms but nowhere near as pronounced. I sure wish it could be nailed down to either cam or oil pump.

Mine had the lower sprocket, key, and tensioner replaced at less than 10k. The noise returned very soon there after but the mechs couldn't recognize it. Now at 25+ I'm sure they'll have no problem hearing it; provided I leave it overnight. I've long felt that the chain and upper sprocket should have been also replaced at the 10k point. Some bikes have have had the full package replaced.

I too need to do a recording. After a long run to the dealer it'll be too quiet. I'll postpone the operation until after the Fall MV Rendezvous.