What now? (bad idle and poor running)

[Kevin frazier]

I didn't check the gap- have in the past. Easy to do and will check in the morning. So, just unplug it to disable, or also remove some linkage- I haven't really looked at it to see how it operates yet. Once done I need to set idle manually, right?

I believe now on a roadster you can unplug or just turn off in tune ecu, that was toldto me alain added that feature for roadster, if not just unhook linkage from stepper to where it attaches and yes you eill adjust idle, that screw has yelliw paint and if you pay great attention marking exac where it is so if it is the stepper you can order another and put everything back exactly as factory. Also if you just disconnect linkage there will not be a code. But you will know immediately if stepoer has indeed gone bad.

 

[Kevin frazier]

if you test and check map as described and do see issues i have a map sensor i can send next day, when daves map sensor went bad bike would not start remember that in mv

 

[Journeyman]

if you test and check map as described and do see issues i have a map sensor i can send next day, when daves map sensor went bad bike would not start remember that in mv

You're da bomb- thanks, Kevin! Thanks, but I just this second ordered a used one (7,000 miles) from PinWall for $7.00.

That's just a $108.43 (pre-tax/shipping) part new!!!

 

[Journeyman]

Yeah initial impression is vac leak or MAP sensor prob. Interested to see what vacuum values you got, and what it does when you blip the throttle, and when you hold it at say 2000rpm then snap throttle closed

The other day that would definitely kill it. Today it's gone from fantastic to dodgy where I had to rev it at stop lights to keep it going.

 

[Journeyman]

I'm going to go ahead an replace the vacuum lines, while I'm at it. I have silicone on there that are probably fine, but might as well.

Anyone know the size(s) needed? Is it 2,3, or 4mm? I would think that I could get the T part at an auto supply store.

Update: Just ordered some 4mm. Found a post where 2mm and 4mm was suggested. The 2 must be for the map sensor, then force it onto the T? I remember that the stock part is different at both ends.

 

[TURBO200R4]

i would worry about silicone hoses clasping under high vacuum (closed throttle)
i am going to guess that tee has 3 of the same size and a bigger one for the map.
regular vac hose tends to break when u stretch it over a larger barb after a while.

 

[Journeyman]

i would worry about silicone hoses clasping under high vacuum (closed throttle)
i am going to guess that tee has 3 of the same size and a bigger one for the map.
regular vac hose tends to break when u stretch it over a larger barb after a while.

I've just ordered some new hose- I read somewhere to use 4mm, but I think I had 3mm and it wasn't too hard to get it on throttle bodies. I may have to order the 3mm. Yes, that's what that T looks like. It appears to be OK.

 

[Journeyman]

This just keeps getting worse. Woke up this morning and tried some things before work (in order, as best as I can recall)...

• Pulled the vacuum lines to clean and inspect (new line on order). All good.
• The T fitting looks good.
• Blocked two hoses and sucked on a third and it held vacuum with all three hoses- hoses and T are good
• Started easy. Blipped throttle and continued to idle. Yay, me!
• While running sprayed WD40 around vacuum hose connections, T, injectors, throttle body adaptors/rubbers- no change in running
• Unplugged Stepper motor- didn't seem (?) to make any difference (hmmm). Started ran, idled.
• I obviously don't need this... Removed stepper motor
• Bike wouldn't turn over!
• Plugged stepper motor back in, but not installed
• Bike turned over, but wouldn't start, even with adding throttle. After second attempt...
• Bike won't crank! Lights on bright, instrument panel sweep. Fuses good.
  • In the middle of all this the bike sometimes wouldn't crank. I've seen this every once in a blue moon- fiddle with ignition, kill switch, clutch and it would always start. Same here today at first, but several times within just a few minutes, then nothing....
• Seems maybe it takes a little longer after the sweep to hear the fuel pump kick in. But no starter.
• Took clutch switch apart and cleaned- hunch that might be it. Maybe, but if so it didn't fix it. The shaft that is inside the lever seemed pretty worn- wondering if it's too short to make the connection. May try to shim it somehow.

Had to go to work. Took the RV which sometimes doesn't start either (Fkme) and also trying to diagnose it. No good equivalent R3 forum for that. Maybe once the Rocket is running I'll do a post here on the RV

• Does the stepper motor need to stay bolted in place in order for the bike to run? It did run unplugged with motor in place a few tries. No start probably not related to stepper, but I'll reinstall later for sheets and giggles.
• Bad clutch switch, kickstand switch, kill switch, or ignition switch? If so, is that a separate issue, or could that actually be at the heart of all this?
• Bad battery? New Duracell (just 3 weeks old). Will test. This sounds familiar from @Jared

Intermittent crank

I can put the key in, lights come on, etc. but sometimes it won't even crank. It is in Neutral. Just replaced battery, thinking the 3 year old battery I had may have been an issue. Still nothing. I have opened up the starter button and cleaned those terminals, so that should be good. If I do...

www.r3owners.net

I am still not going to buy a Honda.​

 

[TURBO200R4]

unplugging stepper connector while idling good is just a test to confirm if the stepper is doing what it should. it should start and run good.
when attempting to start the stepper holds the throttle plates open a small amount. i do not recommend removing but when u remove the stepper motor u have to compensate by turning out the idle stop screw a little.
when u hit the starter button do hear a click or is it silent?
if u have the clutch disengage that eliminates the kickstand as a problem.

 

[Journeyman]

unplugging stepper connector while idling good is just a test to confirm if the stepper is doing what it should. it should start and run good.
when attempting to start the stepper holds the throttle plates open a small amount. i do not recommend removing but when u remove the stepper motor u have to compensate by turning out the idle stop screw a little.
when u hit the starter button do hear a click or is it silent?
if u have the clutch disengage that eliminates the kickstand as a problem.

The times when it wouldn't crank, no click- nothing but lights and instrument panels on.

For future knowledge.... IF the clutch switch is working you're saying it will override the kickstand switch? In other words, you could have a bad kickstand switch, but pulling in the clutch and it will still start? I figure I may be back on those various switches at some point soon and want to understand.