Warning Lite - Oil lite stays on

He doesn't seem to be answering our questions
Maybe fixing to cut his loses.
A little story
A long time ago guy came into shop with trans problems and i discovered he had used a tube of silicone on the extension housing. Nowit had a screen like the rocket and the silicone had gone through the screen through the pump and then into the valvebody and the rest of the transmission. I tell u what a transmission does not work very good when the valves and passage ways r full of silicone lol.
Over the years i have seen a lot of this but the dacron like filter stop the most of it.
When i apply silicon i use a small bead then take my finger and smear to make a thin layer.
Hope u enjoyed the story.
 
What I am trying to do is to figure out how much silicone went through that pump and did the filter stop (collect) the rest or did it plug the filter and bypass the filter.
Where the base of the filter is, hacksaw around it, then you can remove the outer shell and inspect the filter (pics please).
The scavenger pump would also pull in silicone so drop the bottom pan (sump) and see what is in those screens.
I had dropped the pan initially and went thru the screen and their was nothing in either of the two screens in the pan. I will cut open the oil filter when I get back from Chicago on Thursday evening.
 
I think he said in early posts the level in the tank was not dropping
Yes, the level in the oil tank was not dropping but when I drained everything again to pull off the Clutch Basket I emptied everything using the (3) plugs in the oil pan again and this then drained every bit of oil from the Oil Tank...
 
PF63E.jpg
I see said the blind man, now...
 
Trying to look at this systematically -- basically -- a substantial proportion of the responses here, are helping you gain information about the condition of the engine.

This data (oil filter internal inspection, sump pan with screens inspection, oil pump inspection, oil tank / lines / return valve inspection, valve cover and cams inspection, oil pressure circuit check, etc.), once collected, can feed an assessment of what next. If the data suggests clean and go, great. If the data suggest open the engine, then the better part of wisdom is a replacement, as suggested.

Of course, some people like to tinker, and maybe you're one of those. Like the person who builds their own airplane, the FAA says a priori that person is qualified to work on it even without an A&P certification, you might enjoy the process of learning first hand how Triumph engineered and manufactured that motor, and having pulled it apart, and spent the money on needed parts, you could end up with a "zero miles" motor.

And the possibilities are infinite. If you go that route, you could consider substituting some parts for a little or a lot of boost in performance. "There is no replacement for displacement" goes the saying around the race track, and this certainly applies to the Rocket.

If time is not on your side, as someone suggested, you could part out the bike, easily making your money back, and instead, shop for an excellent used bike all ready to go, with everything working, and probably some added farkles as well.
Thank you for your insight, I think I have done a pretty good job of listening to the advice of most of the people here. As not everyone has the resources some of you may have with TOOLS and shop to do all of the work and the $$ it takes to tear a beast like this apart as I would prefer not to have to take this to a Triumph dealer and put out X-Dollars if I had the resources and experience to do the work my self. I will also not drive something I think would put me or others in harms way. So I will continue to follow the advice of the people on here to the point of where I need to stop or feel I exhausted my time/experience.
 
Back
Top