Warning Lite - Oil lite stays on

hossr said:

I am going to order up some new gaskets and filter for the pressure pump and lean her up, torque down the bolts and give it a try. Won't happen for at least a week for parts order and a quick week in Sanibel. Gentlemen i thank you for all of your advice and look forward to move updates as we close in on a hopeful completion.

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Ive been thinking and while you have the sump off and the front opened you said your going to pull the pressure pump. Remove the anti leak down valve. I think I'd take the oil tank off the while the bottom is still open put some air down the the two oil tank fittings. With no sump pan on you could hit them with some good air pressure and go all the way thru its a straight shot. Same with the inlet side only make sure the screen comes off with the pump. I think you'll find the pump takes no gaskets. Then we from underneath we supply pressure to the outlet side of the scavenger pump so in case any from the gasket area got squeezed loose. Its easy to remove the tank. I don't even unhook the throttle cables I just tie wire them up by the handle bar grip. Cause its going right back on. . If you have the time you can pull the main ladder for further cleaning and to make sure no loose gasket goop is laying on a edge somewhere. Just a idea there is a shortage of change here so no charge

warp9.9 said:

Ive been thinking and while you have the sump off and the front opened you said your going to pull the pressure pump. Remove the anti leak down valve. I think I'd take the oil tank off the while the bottom is still open put some air down the the two oil tank fittings. With no sump pan on you could hit them with some good air pressure and go all the way thru its a straight shot. Same with the inlet side only make sure the screen comes off with the pump. I think you'll find the pump takes no gaskets. Then we from underneath we supply pressure to the outlet side of the scavenger pump so in case any from the gasket area got squeezed loose. Its easy to remove the tank. I don't even unhook the throttle cables I just tie wire them up by the handle bar grip. Cause its going right back on. . If you have the time you can pull the main ladder for further cleaning and to make sure no loose gasket goop is laying on a edge somewhere. Just a idea there is a shortage of change here so no charge

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Agreed, little things like this at this point I will do. Thanks for the ideas. Couple more hours at this point won't hurt.

After a nice little vacation to Sanibel, Fl and a crappy week in Minneapolis I'm back at it today> I put the clutch basket/pressure pump/water pump and radiator back on the bike and like a thinking man before I'd try to start the bike again, I re-read many of the last posts that said to drop the OIL pan again and look into the tubes and make sure everything we still good. Well to my surprise things looked VERY BAD... See pictures - The front filter was clean but the back area filter was full and remnants of something made of thing metal.. I have decided to go in an have a good stiff drink of whiskey and contemplate my next move.

Thoughts welcome -

Split it

Sorry, but looking more and more, like a future "parts" engine.

R-III-R Turbo said:

Split it

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Any Ideas of what the thin metal pieces sitting in the bottom of the oil pan are from > cylinder walls?

hossr said:

Any Ideas of what the thin metal pieces sitting in the bottom of the oil pan are from > cylinder walls?

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Torsional damper shaft bearings are going. Won't be long and you will have cage parts for the roller separation. Just for the record if is pre-update kit, it will have the old style bearing in it. So that the front is in backwards and the orignal style rear bearing which also got starved with oil. So then the extra goop might not have caused the problem which means the sump could have been cleaned and put back on. By this I mean previous owner pulled the sump pan cause she was making noise it's kind of a muffled squeal sound . Anyway he opend it up seen a bunch more shrapnel . Held up a crucifix to it to keep the vampires away. Then he made the great decision to slap her back together and send her down the road. All this means it the bad bearings are worse. The screens are where the oil to the tank go thru first. Think of it as a prefilter. Then to the tank and down thru the pump into the big pipe and over to the filter. Any cleaned the sump squirted so bathtub caulk on the old gasket and slapped her back together. I'm just thinking out loud here .

hossr said:

After a nice little vacation to Sanibel, Fl and a crappy week in Minneapolis I'm back at it today> I put the clutch basket/pressure pump/water pump and radiator back on the bike and like a thinking man before I'd try to start the bike again, I re-read many of the last posts that said to drop the OIL pan again and look into the tubes and make sure everything we still good. Well to my surprise things looked VERY BAD... See pictures - The front filter was clean but the back area filter was full and remnants of something made of thing metal.. I have decided to go in an have a good stiff drink of whiskey and contemplate my next move.

Thoughts welcome -

Click to expand...

Anything now is speculation, only true way to know is complete tear down to determine what's good and what's not. Seemed like you got a great deal to begin with, believe it's repairable.