Very strang starting issue

Also use a battery isolation in the circuit so if one battery goes bad it does not take the other battery with it.
 
Warp uses no stereo only important electronics like gauges not even the triumph fog lights sense the brackets keep failing (not made for high speed) not sure about premature wear when mixing most of my lead acid batteries that died was from prolong sitting. To be clear I use lithium iron LiFePO4 not lithium ion LiCoO2 with the lead acid. Since 2010
 
So you recomend using a separate battery to run the stereo. I. Not sure about how much power the stereo would run. I haven't gotten that far yet. I'm thinking of running an amp that would have bluetooth capability with my phone and some decent 4" speakers that I could put in pods hanging off the bars. Maybe volume control where I could reach it as well .
 
Honestly - I, like the terribly butch pink scooter riding @scot in exile , dislike infotainment distractions. I don't ever use the radio in the Land Rover either.


And if you actually want to be info-tained, as opposed to irritating the general public - then I would err towards headphones.

BUT - if you feel you must, then yes - I would give serious consideration to a segregated power source - running as slave to the main battery. i.e. when you start the engine - the main battery gets re-charged up before new charge flows to the slave. And when the engine is not charging you only deplete the slave.

I have no idea how much a decent set of weather resistant speakers and stereo will cost - but I'll bet it is more than absolutely outstanding bluetooth earplugs. And I bet it won't sound anywhere near as good.
 
The T-Bird has an ambient temperature sensor. Does the R3?
Seems that with the symptoms described in the original post, that would be a logical starting point.
 
VABird said:
The T-Bird has an ambient temperature sensor. Does the R3?
Seems that with the symptoms described in the original post, that would be a logical starting point.
Click to expand...
Yes it does, but was told it was very rare of this sensor to go bad and it just needed to be cleaned ever so often.
 
VABird said:
The T-Bird has an ambient temperature sensor. Does the R3?
Seems that with the symptoms described in the original post, that would be a logical starting point.
Click to expand...
But it is possible. I was going to try the cheaper solutions first such as grounds and battery wires cleaning sensors. Then with no result keep going to the next thing. Eventually it will be fixed!
 
So I have been busy, but just an update. I changed the ambient air temperature sensor, upgraded to positive and negative cables to a 4 gauge, cleaned where the cables made contact to the block and starter. I purchased a battery tender it has been charging and maintaining the battery for about 3 weeks. There is still no change in the bike once so ever. Warp I have not done what you suggested yet due to wanting to eliminate other possibilities. I also need to get a new back tire ( it decided to make friends with a piece of metal) before I go anywhere. Let me know any thoughts! Thank you all for the replies!
 
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