If your bike still has the stock map then with the Jardines it is running mad lean.
This would explain the heat and the decel popping.
Assuming you don't know what map is on it then best first step will be to download a map (from a trusted site like either here or the TuneECU site) for a 2010 to 2013 Roadster with Jardines or other free flowing exhaust - and you'll be a lot closer to correct.

Nothing beats a dyno tune or second best get a PC5 and Autotune.
How do you survive 50°C!!
Thanks. The nearest Dyno is in Dubai, about a 90 minute ride away. I'm planning to get up there sometime in Winter, when the temp drops to around 25 and I could handle that ride. (It's currently 42 at noon). I do ride shorter distances all year though, so a quick fix till then would be good. I bought the bike 3 months ago and it had the 20352 stock map. I installed the 20355 map using TuneECU (stock Triumph with TOR's) and the only differences I noticed are a slightly slower throttle response at crawling speeds (good!) and a definite kick at around 4,500rpm, probably secondary throttles opening? (I'd rather it was progressive, but I can handle that). No change in the decel pop or heat.

So would a best quick fix, until I can get to the dyno, be changing the F/L tables and disabling the O2, or increasing some percentages in the F Trim table, or leaving the O2 enabled and lowering the AFR values? I'm an old bloke returning to 2 wheels, more used to setting up carbs........

Surviving 50 degC? Most folk use their air-conditioned car to drive from their air-conditioned house to the air-conditioned mall/bar. The only time they feel the heat is the walk from the car park. There are some cases of vitamin D deficiency here - nobody goes out in the sun! Right now I use my other bike, a Harley Sport Glide, purely because of the RIII heat which actually gets painful. Even on the Harley using fingerless gloves you can feel your fingernails cooking, and holding the hot clutch lever at lights is an endurance test, but I'd still rather be there than sitting in my car trying to find a decent radio station.....

Atomsplitter - ice water is good, but a Corona from the freezer is my chosen remedy.
 
I have a Kegerator for those days...........
Now that one I had to google - I'm envious, definitely not available over here.

C'mon guys, somebody gimme a clue as to the best short-term option for making the engine run a little rich. I can try changing stuff myself, the "suck it and see" method, but I don't want to overdo it and there are guys who know way more than me who should be able to give me a steer? Pretty please?
 
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Now that one I had to google - I'm envious, definitely not available over here.

C'mon guys, somebody gimme a clue as to the best short-term option for making the engine run a little rich. I can try changing stuff myself, the "suck it and see" method, but I don't want to overdo it and there are guys who know way more than me who should be able to give me a steer? Pretty please?
20355 Baseline Dyno Tune 2011 - Thanks Martin_Brighton_Uk
Pod Filters, Staintune Mufflers and Crossover
Balanced F and L tables
Decel pop added
Modified AFR throughout the range.
You must - repeat must reset your TPS and ISCV as per my notes... 2011 2011 R3R Tors Ramair with more fuel and less timing in cruise, decel pop added
I understand that you have an OEM air filter, but why not give it a try? This is the best (in my opinion) map for aftermarket exhaust and zero-resistance air filter. There is a slight popping at 1800 RPM, but it is the lesser of two evils. Despite the fact that the map was edited in New Zealand, it tolerates the Siberian heat of 35-40 degrees quite well.
 
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