Transmission issue

[mr hunt]

It's a 36mm bolt as warp described....good luck with a puller ... I used a rattle gun and just about shook it to bits before the magnet released...tough little bugger

 

[mr hunt]

Hello Warp,

I have the engine pulled out of the frame now and
>Removed oil pump and chain
>Disconnected cam chain
Do I need to remove the oil pressure relief valve to crankcase and the check valve to split lower case
.Also could you send pic of oil pressure switch location.

I measured pitch of alternator cover think it ia 33mm ×1.5 ,could you please confirm the the spec and is it RH or LH tread.Can you send photo of the Triumph tool as the manual depicts just a bolt with tapered end

would this work
www.denniskirk.com/282033.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=CJnFu7XuydECFd61wAodtEgIhw&ad=154639535946


Also ,found metal debris from torsional damper in the oil pump strainer.Is the pil supply to pump pre or post filter

Thanks




Hello Warp,

Will this puller below 38mm puller work to remove alternator, if not can you send photo and thread size of tool.


Also, does the crankcase oil pressure relief valve and oil non return valve need to split lower case to get to the transmission
So far I have disconnect cam chain, oil pump chain, removed

I borrowed the tools from my dealer....$100 bond and a trusting nod .... it took less than 5 mins to get it off, 3 mins was waiting for the air compressor to charge

 

[v*twin]

Found this puller and ordered it today,was thinking of using a thick steel shim to protect crank thread when using the tool's center jacking bolt which isn't tapered.

Amazon.com: Bultaco Ossa Husqvarna Flywheel Puller [33mm x 1.5mm]: Automotive

No its a lrge fine thread bolt with a center point on it to meet the crank shaft. I bet theres a good picture on the Hermy's triumph site.

 

[v*twin]

Found this puller and ordered it today,was thinking of using a thick steel shim to protect crank thread when using the tool's center jacking bolt which isn't tapered.

Amazon.com: Bultaco Ossa Husqvarna Flywheel Puller [33mm x 1.5mm]: Automotive

No luck today with removing the rotor with the pullers that I had ordered. I had ordered both 33mmx1.5 and also a 30mmx1.5 pullers just in case .But the 30mm puller is too small in diameter and the 33mm puller isn't getting started. I am not sure if either it is the slightly larger diameter of the 33mm puller(searched online could fins any 32mm or 31mm universal pullers) or if the tool needs to have tapered end like the Triumph special tool. I have verified the tread pitch is 1.5mm on the rotor cover.

I was wondering if I grinding the 33mm puller to a slight taper would work or if it will distort the tread and tread wont get started to screw in. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[warp9.9]

No luck today with removing the rotor with the pullers that I had ordered. I had ordered both 33mmx1.5 and also a 30mmx1.5 pullers just in case .But the 30mm puller is too small in diameter and the 33mm puller isn't getting started. I am not sure if either it is the slightly larger diameter of the 33mm puller(searched online could fins any 32mm or 31mm universal pullers) or if the tool needs to have tapered end like the Triumph special tool. I have verified the tread pitch is 1.5mm on the rotor cover.

I was wondering if I grinding the 33mm puller to a slight taper would work or if it will distort the tread and tread wont get started to screw in. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Let me grab a set of calipers run down stairs and measure a flywheel.

 

[warp9.9]

Ok 32 mm by 1.5 mm pitch
the point sets in the crank and then I just shock her with a Babbitt hammer (Kind of like lead) and it pops off much like a Morse or Jarno machine taper. there is a woodruff key in the taper on the crank shaft keep a eye out to make sure you do not misplace it.

 

[v*twin]

Ok 32 mm by 1.5 mm pitch
the point sets in the crank and then I just shock her with a Babbitt hammer (Kind of like lead) and it pops off much like a Morse or Jarno machine taper. there is a woodruff key in the taper on the crank shaft keep a eye out to make sure you do not misplace it.

Thanks a lot for the looking up the tread size.
I found a M32x1.5 drain plug that worked like a charm using with a cap nut to remove the alternator. The drain plug is available at O'Rilleys and Amazon, the Dorman part number is 090-102.
Dorman AutoGrade 090-102 - Manual Trans Drain Plug | O'Reilly Auto Parts

After splitting the lower case and through all the gears it appears to be operating smoothly and didn't hear the rattling noise shifting through gears. One thing I noticed in one of the photos is the 1st gear shifter fork was resting on 5th input gear after I had split the case. Could the shifter fork possibly have slipped from 1st gear dog and was rattling? or just fork moved when I split the lower case.

There appears to be some wear on 1st gear dog and 1st gear face, photos are attached

Link to video shifting through gear

Let me know what you think or any other checks I should make

 

[Nat67]

Hey V*twin , thanks for the informative posts . Can you tell me , does the gear shift actuator shaft run through the casing in a bearing , and if so does the bearing shoulder inside the case ? Mines getting awful sloppy ! I'm guessing it's a case split to fix this ?

 

[warp9.9]

Thanks a lot for the looking up the tread size.
I found a M32x1.5 drain plug that worked like a charm using with a cap nut to remove the alternator. The drain plug is available at O'Rilleys and Amazon, the Dorman part number is 090-102.
Dorman AutoGrade 090-102 - Manual Trans Drain Plug | O'Reilly Auto Parts

After splitting the lower case and through all the gears it appears to be operating smoothly and didn't hear the rattling noise shifting through gears. One thing I noticed in one of the photos is the 1st gear shifter fork was resting on 5th input gear after I had split the case. Could the shifter fork possibly have slipped from 1st gear dog and was rattling? or just fork moved when I split the lower case.

There appears to be some wear on 1st gear dog and 1st gear face, photos are attached

Link to video shifting through gear

Let me know what you think or any other checks I should make

From reading this am I correct in assuming your output shaft came out with the lower case when you lifted it? If so thats when the fork dropped onto the fifth gear input. Now if I suspect if you would have insured the shaft stayed in the upper case all forks would've stayed in place . The does not seem to be riding on the gear in your video can you confirm?
Also what does the inside diameter of the first thrust washer on the output shaft look like? It between the front roller bearing and first gear output. I want to see if its sharp like a knife edge or square like the outside diameter of the thrust washer. Also check the nut on the helical gear output to insure it is still torqued.

 

[v*twin]

I forgot to mention that video was taken after I placed the shifter fork back in the 1st gear dog.Then found not rattling noise when shifted through gears as noticed in the video.But looking back through photos found the fork resting on the 5th input gear.
I will check thr trust washer and helical gear nut torque shortly

Thanks a lot for the looking up the tread size.
I found a M32x1.5 drain plug that worked like a charm using with a cap nut to remove the alternator. The drain plug is available at O'Rilleys and Amazon, the Dorman part number is 090-102.
Dorman AutoGrade 090-102 - Manual Trans Drain Plug | O'Reilly Auto Parts

After splitting the lower case and through all the gears it appears to be operating smoothly and didn't hear the rattling noise shifting through gears. One thing I noticed in one of the photos is the 1st gear shifter fork was resting on 5th input gear after I had split the case. Could the shifter fork possibly have slipped from 1st gear dog and was rattling? or just fork moved when I split the lower case.

There appears to be some wear on 1st gear dog and 1st gear face, photos are attached

Link to video shifting through gear

Let me know what you think or any other checks I should make

From reading this am I correct in assuming your output shaft came out with the lower case when you lifted it? If so thats when the fork dropped onto the fifth gear input. Now if I suspect if you would have insured the shaft stayed in the upper case all forks would've stayed in place . The does not seem to be riding on the gear in your video can you confirm?
Also what does the inside diameter of the first thrust washer on the output shaft look like? It between the front roller bearing and first gear output. I want to see if its sharp like a knife edge or square like the outside diameter of the thrust washer. Also check the nut on the helical gear output to insure it is still torqued.