Transmission issue

made couple of checks
>engaged 1st gear and rotated output spline/drive shaft (clockwise facing torsional damper cover).It was very hard to rotate( with rattling sound seemed to be from center of transmission).At certain point it was not possible to rotate and it locked & hard to rotate even using a channel lock on drive shaft. If I rotated drive shaft counter clockwise it would rotate 2/3 of revolution before locking up.

>Put transmission in neutral and input shaft rotates smoothly but in neutral if I rotated the drive shaft, it would rotate input shaft as well and sounded similar to when 1st gear was engaged. The input shaft would rotate in either direction in neutral if drive shaft was rotated .
OK I this is making me think a lot as I am kind of stumped but I can say I dug out a drive shaft and stuffed in the extra 06 motor I have. Its fully assembled so I can not check the input shaft but when I put her in Neutral she rotates smoothly in either direction.
 
OK I this is making me think a lot as I am kind of stumped but I can say I dug out a drive shaft and stuffed in the extra 06 motor I have. Its fully assembled so I can not check the input shaft but when I put her in Neutral she rotates smoothly in either direction.

I will pull the engine out over the weekend and check transmission. This will be first time working on any transmission and will read manual before-hand. Is there anything I should be look out for when splitting bottom case and remove input/output shafts and gear selectors?.

Also, I was thinking if any large debris(may be even a ball from bearing) from torsional damper failure could have made its way into gear assembly .I had removed all debris from bottom of torsional damper housing but had assumed all debris would be contained in pan below.
 
I will pull the engine out over the weekend and check transmission. This will be first time working on any transmission and will read manual before-hand. Is there anything I should be look out for when splitting bottom case and remove input/output shafts and gear selectors?.

Also, I was thinking if any large debris(may be even a ball from bearing) from torsional damper failure could have made its way into gear assembly .I had removed all debris from bottom of torsional damper housing but had assumed all debris would be contained in pan below.

If you do take some pictures as you go if you don't mind. I like to see what my transmission looks like on the inside. :thumbsup:
 
I will pull the engine out over the weekend and check transmission. This will be first time working on any transmission and will read manual before-hand. Is there anything I should be look out for when splitting bottom case and remove input/output shafts and gear selectors?.

Also, I was thinking if any large debris(may be even a ball from bearing) from torsional damper failure could have made its way into gear assembly .I had removed all debris from bottom of torsional damper housing but had assumed all debris would be contained in pan below.
In order to split the case after you take her out you will need the alternator removal tools. Basically a hook spanner to hold the alternator cover and a large jack bolt to put pressure on the cover and pop it of the crank shaft taper. There is one bolt that hides well and wont show it face until you remove the oil pressure pump.

2011_0905_140827.JPG


Oh ya and remove the oil pressure sensor so you don't bust it in half.
 
In order to split the case after you take her out you will need the alternator removal tools. Basically a hook spanner to hold the alternator cover and a large jack bolt to put pressure on the cover and pop it of the crank shaft taper. There is one bolt that hides well and wont show it face until you remove the oil pressure pump.

2011_0905_140827.JPG


Oh ya and remove the oil pressure sensor so you don't bust it in half.

I do not have the alternator removal hook spanner,will a pulley holding tool work.
Looks like I would need to get camshaft holding tool to install cam chain tensioner.Is there any precaution to be taken while removing cam chain as service manual doesnt mention any method to lock in cam-crankshaft timing.
 
Sorry to hear of your problems mate and hope you get it sorted , in the meantime please keep the pictures coming of the strip , they are helpful to us all !
A question I have , is about the gear actuation shaft , does this run on bushings or bearings through the engine case ? Mine is becoming sloppy and I can envisage future problems as this shaft is working at 90 degrees to the pawl mechanism , so the more play in this shaft there is , the more affect it will eventually have on firm movement of the drum . Surely ?
 
I do not have the alternator removal hook spanner,will a pulley holding tool work.
Looks like I would need to get camshaft holding tool to install cam chain tensioner.Is there any precaution to be taken while removing cam chain as service manual doesnt mention any method to lock in cam-crankshaft timing.
I do not remember your mileage so I can not say whether you really need to change the tensioner or the guides and chain. I can say you can split the motor and work on the complete transmission without loosing the cam timing. I would measure the drop on the tensioner first just to see how much drop has happened and if you even need to add the spring spacer. All this an be done but do not try to start of turn the motor over while the center nut and spring is out of the tensioner. After using the hook spanner yes you can use that pulley tool above. In fact I be I could make a quick one out of some angle iron and bolts. As for the cam alignment tool I can loan you mine if you end up needing it. I will even throw it in the trailer and take it to Virginia with me in case you need it. Either way I would work the transmission problems first as you can always change the tensioner after she is back together and rolled upright.

All I used was the manual it jumps you around from section to section but it is not hard. If you have her in the garage where you can hang a winch from the rafters it would be easier. Engine hoist would also work. I just used a chain fall when I did mine a little over kill but considering what I had to work with it was cheap and many times as safe.

2011_0903_202705.JPG


From your pictures earlier I assume you will be using the hoist so it will go quickly. Plus you have already done a lot of it already. Oh and don't forget to remove the oil sending unit in the back of the head :D
 
Hello Warp,

I have the engine pulled out of the frame now and
>Removed oil pump and chain
>Disconnected cam chain
Do I need to remove the oil pressure relief valve to crankcase and the check valve to split lower case
.Also could you send pic of oil pressure switch location.

I measured pitch of alternator cover think it ia 33mm ×1.5 ,could you please confirm the the spec and is it RH or LH tread.Can you send photo of the Triumph tool as the manual depicts just a bolt with tapered end

would this work
www.denniskirk.com/282033.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=CJnFu7XuydECFd61wAodtEgIhw&ad=154639535946


Also ,found metal debris from torsional damper in the oil pump strainer.Is the pil supply to pump pre or post filter

Thanks


If you do take some pictures as you go if you don't mind. I like to see what my transmission looks like on the inside. :thumbsup:

Hello Warp,

Will this puller below 38mm puller work to remove alternator, if not can you send photo and thread size of tool.


Also, does the crankcase oil pressure relief valve and oil non return valve need to split lower case to get to the transmission
So far I have disconnect cam chain, oil pump chain, removed
I do not have the alternator removal hook spanner,will a pulley holding tool work.
Looks like I would need to get camshaft holding tool to install cam chain tensioner.Is there any precaution to be taken while removing cam chain as service manual doesnt mention any method to lock in cam-crankshaft timing.
 

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Hello Warp,

I have the engine pulled out of the frame now and
>Removed oil pump and chain
>Disconnected cam chain
Do I need to remove the oil pressure relief valve to crankcase and the check valve to split lower case
.Also could you send pic of oil pressure switch location.

I measured pitch of alternator cover think it ia 33mm ×1.5 ,could you please confirm the the spec and is it RH or LH tread.Can you send photo of the Triumph tool as the manual depicts just a bolt with tapered end

would this work
www.denniskirk.com/282033.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=CJnFu7XuydECFd61wAodtEgIhw&ad=154639535946


Also ,found metal debris from torsional damper in the oil pump strainer.Is the pil supply to pump pre or post filter

Thanks




Hello Warp,

Will this puller below 38mm puller work to remove alternator, if not can you send photo and thread size of tool.


Also, does the crankcase oil pressure relief valve and oil non return valve need to split lower case to get to the transmission
So far I have disconnect cam chain, oil pump chain, removed


just my 2cts if you are sure the debris are from the torsional damper better check the bearings in the output shaft case
 
Hello Warp,

I have the engine pulled out of the frame now and
>Removed oil pump and chain
>Disconnected cam chain
Do I need to remove the oil pressure relief valve to crankcase and the check valve to split lower case
.Also could you send pic of oil pressure switch location.

I measured pitch of alternator cover think it ia 33mm ×1.5 ,could you please confirm the the spec and is it RH or LH tread.Can you send photo of the Triumph tool as the manual depicts just a bolt with tapered end

would this work
www.denniskirk.com/282033.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=CJnFu7XuydECFd61wAodtEgIhw&ad=154639535946


Also ,found metal debris from torsional damper in the oil pump strainer.Is the pil supply to pump pre or post filter

Thanks




Hello Warp,

Will this puller below 38mm puller work to remove alternator, if not can you send photo and thread size of tool.


Also, does the crankcase oil pressure relief valve and oil non return valve need to split lower case to get to the transmission
So far I have disconnect cam chain, oil pump chain, removed


No it's a large fine thread bolt with a center point on it to meet the crank shaft. I bet there's a good picture on the Hermy's triumph site.
 
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