Tail Light and Numberplate Light

Wrecka said:
... Im not handy with a multimeter and wouldnt have a clue how to use one either , is there a fuse somewhere id be overlooking ? ...
Click to expand...

See here for tip on using your meter to check Fuses.

Note there are two fuses that will affect the tail/license plate light - Fuses 8 & 10

There are couple of clues you can check without even measuring anything
Does Front Park light come on
a) In 'Park' position of key
b) In 'On' position of key (tip - pull Fuse 9 which will keep main headlight off and make front park easier to see)

If neither position works, check fuse 10
If works in 'Park' but not in 'On' check fuse 8
If works in both then problem with wiring at the rear lamp end.
 
I thought i was going to have issues due to the 3 wires mate, the tail light and friend however stopped working before the indicators were even installed. The indicators themselves work great i just paired the two positive wires together so two elements per bulb light up, hasnt caused it to pull to many amps and pop the fuse but that may change once i get the fronts installed.
 
TE="DEcosse, post: 332259, member: 3206"]See here for tip on using your meter to check Fuses.

Note there are two fuses that will affect the tail/license plate light - Fuses 8 & 10

There are couple of clues you can check without even measuring anything
Does Front Park light come on
a) In 'Park' position of key
b) In 'On' position of key (tip - pull Fuse 9 which will keep main headlight off and make front park easier to see)

If neither position works, check fuse 10
If works in 'Park' but not in 'On' check fuse 8
If works in both then problem with wiring at the rear lamp end.[/QUOTE]

Thanks champ thats exactly the help i was hoping for , first chance i get ill go through that process and see if i get any joy, i might even cut the number plate light posative and hot wire straight to the battery that will at least show me if i have an earth issue
 
Wrecka said:
The indicators themselves work great i just paired the two positive wires together so two elements per bulb light up, hasnt caused it to pull to many amps and pop the fuse but that may change once i get the fronts installed.
Click to expand...

The turns come off a different Fuse so that would not cause the tail lights issue, regardless.
Also, since those are LEDs, even with both elements on, drawing way less current than the equivalent incandescent would

One more tip re your diagnostic of the tail:
First, unplug the rear before your check the condition of the front (just to be sure you don't have a condition that will blow the fuse)
Then plug it back in repeat test
 
They arnt LEDS , but back on track the idicators arnt the issue . I don't understand what unplug the rear before checking the front means ? Is that the front and rear fuses ? I actually replaced those 2 fuses yesterday
 
Wrecka said:
They arnt LEDS , but back on track the idicators arnt the issue .
Click to expand...
right - I should have checked the link - but as you say, moot anyway, different circuit regardless.
(Curious - Do you turns flash at 'normal' rate or not?)


I don't understand what unplug the rear before checking the front means ? Is that the front and rear fuses ? I actually replaced those 2 fuses yesterday
Click to expand...

I mean unplug the rear lamp
Just because you replaced them doesn't mean you didn't blow it again
By unplugging the rear light, you will just be supplying power to the front park only, so can do diag as described on whether the font works in either or both positions, which will validate (or not!) your circuitry through both fuses.
Then if you plug rear back in again - and checking front again - it will either pop the fuse once more - or work as should and you know either way you have problem with your rear lamp wiring and whether front is on (you have open wiring to rear lamp) or off (you have short in wiring at rear lamp)
 
Mate sorry for not making it clearer to start with no fuses what soever have failed as yet , that's what's making it frustrating if the fuse was popping I'd have something to go by .
 
It doesn't hurt to validate the front operation to confirm

If the fuses are intact and the front works properly in both modes then you simply have open connection to either the power or the ground (or the lamp itself is fubar'd)
Did you cut/splice any wires in your process?
 
No Sir,
Tail lamp and plate lamp wires have been untouched , that's what's throwing me , I could understand if one stopped working I'd point to a broken connection/wire
 
I just thought of something:
Check this:
Pull Fuse 10 (which will turn off the front park) , then turn on ignition & press the brake, look to see if your front park comes on (although perhaps faint - again, pull Fuse 9 when you check this so you can see) !
(Seriously - bear with me .......... )
If you have ground missing, then when brake is applied, current could potentially flow through brake filament to 'ground' (not really - just an intermediate connection) then through running filament and back through the front lamp park to ground. Which makes it look like brake is working and ground is actually connected
I've seen that before (but with turn signals)

If front does NOT come on, then forget that theory!
 
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