Stebel Nautilus Horn

As I explained earlier, if you use the PDM60, you don't need the relay (assuming you did not use the negative trigger for something else)

Sorry, Ken.
That must have went into my head and not understood by my old brain!
What's a negative trigger???
 
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I just, literally 5 min ago, finished installing the Denali Soundbomb on my Rocket. Helpful hints:

-I bought the split unit, hoping to put the horns in the stock location, but it was too big to fit without trimming or fabricating something, which in hindsight, I wish I would've done.
-I wound up mounting the horns under the left side cover. Lots of room in there. Probably didn't need the split unit after all.
-I mounted the compressor in the 'neck' of the airbox. Wasted space anyway. I didn't bother to bolt it down, as it is pretty snug in there, and with the tank down, it can't go anywhere.
-The factory horn connection is quite long. You can fish it back past the triple tree, and it will reach the back of the engine. The factory connectors are perfect to fit onto the relay, so that part is cake. There is all kinds of room for the relay if the factory intake tube is gone (and why wouldn't it be ?;))
-From there it's simply a matter of fused power from the battery, which isn't far.
-The horn is LOUD. Painful loud from the left side or on the bike. From the right side or the front, which is where the people trying to kill you will be, it is merely pretty loud. Hence why I wish I had taken the time to fab a front mount, although if this thing is as much like the Stebel as it looks, it probably is safer where it's at.

I guess I'm satisfied with my install. It is invisible, which is my first priority. It works, it's much better than stock (or so I assume, stock horn no-worky). I've never actually used my horn in anger anyway. I'm a pretty defensive rider, and the couple of times it would've made sense to use, by the time I think of it, the situation is over. Generally brakes or steering (or throttle in the case of the Rocket...)are better choices than hoping that the person in the quiet, sealed box doesn't have their stereo turned up too loud.
 
@geneseo1911
Thanks for the post.
Were you referring to the ovular opening at the forward end of the (former) air box?
If so, what a great idea!
 
.... What's a negative trigger???

It's a switch to ground (like your horn switch) that (optionally) activates a circuit on your PDM60, as opposed to a positive trigger (like the ignition power, or signal from my key-less).
In the case of the horn circuit, you program it for Ignition AND Ground Trigger, so that horn only operates when ignition is on and the button is pressed.

You need to read my KeyLess install guide and also the PDM60 guides :D
(in your specific Key-Less guide we initially set it up similarly using ground/negative trigger for aux lights - same principle for horn, just need to use channel 5 instead to get the higher current required and also reprogram the trigger requirements)

Here's what we set up originally for you:

PDM60_Interconnect.jpg



PDM60_Program_1oldbull.jpg


This is how you would change it for the Horn connection:

PDM60_Interconnect_Horn.jpg


PDM60_Program_1oldbull_Horn.jpg


Note again that the Brake/Turns/Horn circuit requirement has been reduced significantly because that circuit no longer has to provide OEM horn current.
That also means you can increase the channel 4 current, so you can use that for either your planned aux lamps or heated gear.
So you re-program the PDM60 as per the second diagram, then remove the OEM Horn and run a wire from the Purple/Black Horn wire to the Blue wire at the PDM60 accessory connector; and connect the Brown Wire to the Compressor Positive and compressor negative to battery negative.

BE SURE THAT AS WELL AS CHANGING THE CURRENT SETTINGS YOU ALSO CHNAGE THE RED CIRCUIT TO IGNITION TRIGGER AND THE BROWN CIRCUIT TO IGNITION TRIGGER AND GROUND TRIGGER
 
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It's a switch to ground (like your horn switch) that (optionally) activates a circuit on your PDM60, as opposed to a positive trigger (like the ignition power, or signal from my key-less).
In the case of the horn circuit, you program it for Ignition AND Ground Trigger, so that horn only operates when ignition is on and the button is pressed.

You need to read my KeyLess install guide and also the PDM60 guides :D
(in your specific Key-Less guide we initially set it up similarly using ground/negative trigger for aux lights - same principle for horn, just need to use channel 5 instead to get the higher current required and also reprogram the trigger requirements)

Note again that the Brake/Turns/Horn circuit requirement has been reduced significantly because that circuit no longer has to provide OEM horn current.
That also means you can increase the channel 4 current, so you can use that for either your planned aux lamps or heated gear.
So you re-program the PDM60 as per the second diagram, then remove the OEM Horn and run a wire from the Purple/Black Horn wire to the Blue wire at the PDM60 accessory connector; and connect the Brown Wire to the Compressor Positive and compressor negative to battery negative.

Ken,
THANK YOU SO MUCH!
for taking the time to 'splain this to a 'lectrical drongo!
I have made a PDF file out of it for reference.
Pretty sure I got the drift . . .
 
Anything is louder than the meep from the stock horn. What was Triumph thinking :rolleyes:

I could say the same for BMW. It's the height of corporate bean counter crazy. Multi adjustable ABS, DDS, fuel mapping, traction control, wheelie control and electronic cruise control. And a flipp'n horn with the presence of cheap party favor. :rolleyes:
 
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