Starting problem

[Gregger]

You stated, in a no start condition, the starter clicks and will only start using a jumper battery? This indicates a lack of voltage when cranking either through connection issues which have been addressed by Turbo, Dzhaks and several others or because of a flat battery. Since the bikes starts up with a jumper, we need to know what the battery is at when you have the problem. If the battery is low, I'm guessing the bike is not charging properly and the battery might be getting flat. What's the voltage with engine running? You also stated that you "have a voltage leak" and need to keep it on a tender. That's another indication the battery isn't up to speed, assuming your wire connections are checked and good.

Pure speculation since we don't know what we are starting with... As Turbo stated, you need a voltmeter and we need the numbers....

Also, when you had the starter out, did you inspect the ring gear? How did it look? What about the bendix on the starter? Curious to see if the gears are a bit chewed up which would make starter engagement hard.

 

[1olbull]

Thats great Steve as it would mean I'm still here and I still got a running bike.

I wish you were coming to the RAA West, Amigo.

 

[nolton]

You stated, in a no start condition, the starter clicks and will only start using a jumper battery? This indicates a lack of voltage when cranking either through connection issues which have been addressed by Turbo, Dzhaks and several others or because of a flat battery. Since the bikes starts up with a jumper, we need to know what the battery is at when you have the problem. If the battery is low, I'm guessing the bike is not charging properly and the battery might be getting flat. What's the voltage with engine running? You also stated that you "have a voltage leak" and need to keep it on a tender. That's another indication the battery isn't up to speed, assuming your wire connections are checked and good.

Pure speculation since we don't know what we are starting with... As Turbo stated, you need a voltmeter and we need the numbers....

Also, when you had the starter out, did you inspect the ring gear? How did it look? What about the bendix on the starter? Curious to see if the gears are a bit chewed up which would make starter engagement hard.

I will do all the procedures as recommended but when it comes to electrical issues I have very little experience. I replaced parts because I'm more mechanically inclined.
Even after a long ride the starter issue still persist so I guess using a volt meter is my first endeavor.

 

[TURBO200R4]

You stated, in a no start condition, the starter clicks and will only start using a jumper battery? This indicates a lack of voltage when cranking either through connection issues which have been addressed by Turbo, Dzhaks and several others or because of a flat battery. Since the bikes starts up with a jumper, we need to know what the battery is at when you have the problem. If the battery is low, I'm guessing the bike is not charging properly and the battery might be getting flat. What's the voltage with engine running? You also stated that you "have a voltage leak" and need to keep it on a tender. That's another indication the battery isn't up to speed, assuming your wire connections are checked and good.

Pure speculation since we don't know what we are starting with... As Turbo stated, you need a voltmeter and we need the numbers....

Also, when you had the starter out, did you inspect the ring gear? How did it look? What about the bendix on the starter? Curious to see if the gears are a bit chewed up which would make starter engagement hard.

very expertly stated.

 

[vindex1963]

I replaced the battery, starter relay, rebuilt starter solenoid and added double battery cables. The cables did help it turn over faster but I still got the click, click.

Some may not agree with my fix, I pulled the starter solenoid plunger out and cut two coils off the spring. I ride daily and it's been weeks since I've gotten the click click.

I think the solenoid gets activated and the plunger moves forward but it doesn't move far enough or the copper washer isn't making
both contacts. Mine made a loud click under the seat at the starter before my fix and now it's started dozens of times without the dreaded click.

Still starting strong 100% of the time and I ride every day of the week. Still no click, click after removing the spring coils.
I really think the spring is way stronger than it needs to be.

Just checking in.

 

[CvSisinthehouse]

This just happened to me Monday morning, after I ran it for 10 minutes Sunday night after a wash- the click back by the fuses. I checked the battery voltage and its 12.3, checked a tender that I have connected to the battery and its also 12.3. Should I start with a new relay? I havent tried the rocking the bike in gear thing yet. Thanks for any help.

 

[Kevin frazier]

What does the voltage do when you hit the button. if the battery isn’t charging a 10 to 20 minute ride will kill the battery. If you can get it started check voltage for charging volts 13.8ish idle 14 with some rev.

 

[Bigjaype]

This just happened to me Monday morning, after I ran it for 10 minutes Sunday night after a wash- the click back by the fuses. I checked the battery voltage and its 12.3, checked a tender that I have connected to the battery and its also 12.3. Should I start with a new relay? I havent tried the rocking the bike in gear thing yet. Thanks for any help.

12.3 is low...even though it is a 12 volt battery, healthy battery voltage is 12.8 or above.
Charging voltage will be 14.4 from you alternator/regulator on the bike.

Clicking noise with no turnover are often caused by poor connections in the heavy current circuit. Check battery cables to starter motor and earth.
The Starter solenoid also shouldn't be overlooked as those contacts don't last forever.

 

[1K9]

12.3 is low...even though it is a 12 volt battery, healthy battery voltage is 12.8 or above.
Charging voltage will be 14.4 from you alternator/regulator on the bike.

Clicking noise with no turnover are often caused by poor connections in the heavy current circuit. Check battery cables to starter motor and earth.
The Starter solenoid also shouldn't be overlooked as those contacts don't last forever.

I tightened my battery terminals with a socket wrench instead of a Philips screwdriver.... Much better. You just can't get them torqued right with a screwdriver.

Get a Battery Tracker from Anti Gravity Batteries. Best 40$ ever spent. Via Bluetooth know on your cell phone where your voltage and cranking amps are before you crank. Know if your magneto/stator is healthy at low and high idle. Know how much cranking amps you have and if there is any decay after cranking. Know if your battery tender is actually tending. Keep records over the course of a month.

 

[CvSisinthehouse]

OK, I took off the starter, cleaned the terminal and connector on top of it, It was a little rusty, put a little grease on it. Reconnected the battery and now nothing when I turn the key, not even the fuel pump cycle, no lights on the gauges, nothing... tested the relay with the help of my neighbor and its good. One 10A fuse had blown so I replaced it. Battery shows 12.8 volts. Now I dont know what to do. WTF!! **** this is annoying.