Starter and headlights not working

bought a few starter relay's last couple of years.

last week my girl wouln't start very easy. Usually a booster pack will do it but not this time i had to use the car. started it 6 times after the boost thought it was a glitch. A couple hours later needed the booster pack but she started. I metered the battery was over 12v and thought a run might straighten her out.

Got to the gas station a few clicks some slow turning over then nothing but starter relay clicks. Got towed home

bought a starter relay didn't help. Took the battery in got it load tested. still nothing checked the fuse for the 3rd time.

rebuilt the starter by professionals. again nothing

cleaned all the power and ground connections. nothing check fuses again

neutral light is on so I checked the clutch switch looks good.

tried her stand up and down. nothing

put the tuneecu on her no green light for the starter switch. It was a little dirty but not bad cleaned it good using sand paper and wd40 tested it for resistance 0.0. not sure i tester the power in put it showed 0.04???

check the both relays all good clicking and 0.0 resistance.

Did these test i found on here;
You really need to break out your meter and follow the signal path (all voltages per red probe with black on battery negative)
1. Do you get 12V at both sides of Fuse 9? passed
2. Do you get 12V at the starter/headlight relay, on the Blue/Yellow wire? Failed
3. Do you get 12V at the starter/headlight relay White/Red wire when you press the start button? passed

(clutch not required for this test) Connect Red probe to battery positive, test with black probe:

4. Do you get 12V at the starter/headlight relay yellow/brown wire when you pull the clutch lever? Passed with or with out the clutch being pressed

On the wiring diagram blue/yellow wire goes straight to the fuse #9???

I have switched the ECU relay with the others no change. might buy 1-3 anyways just in case.

I have bought a few voltage regulators but that issue seems fixed...

If you don't have 12v at the blue/yellow either fuse is bad or your key-switch is bad

Since you have touring take a look at the actual key-switch connector and inspect the terminals for burning

Oldwarrior said:

1. Do you get 12V at both sides of Fuse 9? passed
2. Do you get 12V at the starter/headlight relay, on the Blue/Yellow wire? Failed

Click to expand...

But that doesn't compute that you have 12V at Fuse 9 (one end of which is the Blue/Yellow wire that goes to the Starter Relay)
Are you sure you have 12V on BOTH sides of the Fuse?
Leave Fuse in place - take your meter and connect black to the battery negative; take the red probe and touch it to the exposed metal tabs on top of the fuse - check both sides.

Thanks I doubled checked 12 volts at the fuse 0 volts at the switch. Ran a wire from the positive to the switch and it fires up nicely now, better than it has in a long time.

again in over my head..

I have 2 starter relay switches both will start the bike.
one I just bought stays on all the time even with the key is out.
The other one makes the headlight come on while starting but goes out when it is running.
Is it how I rewired the blue/yellow wire or is it that relays are just crappy and I need to buy another one???

Check the plug for the Illes switch as it has been known to burn out but rarely

Illes switch? not sure what or where that is.

Oldwarrior said:

again in over my head..

I have 2 starter relay switches both will start the bike.
one I just bought stays on all the time even with the key is out.
The other one makes the headlight come on while starting but goes out when it is running.
Is it how I rewired the blue/yellow wire or is it that relays are just crappy and I need to buy another one???

Click to expand...

Relays come in normally open or normally closed versions. Sounds like you have the wrong one

may be kill switch

Ygransom said:

Relays come in normally open or normally closed versions. Sounds like you have the wrong one

Click to expand...

the relays them self's r basically the same
it is the way they r wired in the vehicle that changes the way they work
my 2007 was wired so when u turned on ign power would enter the relay and go to the headlights(the normally closed circuit) when u hit the starter button if all your safety's (neutral ect) it would activate the relay (closed) sending power to the starter solenoid.

sounds to me like u may have a bad ign switch
i think u may have wired a positive wire in between the ign switch and the starter switch
i do not have a good wiring diagram of the touring
but if it was mine i would be checking at the starter relay.
85 & 86 is the coil that energizes the relay
the power comes in on 30 so with it unpluged u should power if ign switch and fuse r good.
if u have a good power on 30 (relay out of connector) u can jumper #30 to 87 (make sure u r in neutral)
because it will crank over and probably start.
keep in mine that the diagram on the relay is going to be reversed when u look into connector.

i checked a couple of relays and the coil circuit is 70 to 90 ohms.
.