Rocket 3 Roadster Possibly Overheating?

[R-III-R Turbo]

OK. The air temp will change a lot faster than the coolant so need to make sure that the ambient air temp is fairly steady for a several hours first.
Nighttime temps can change rapidly. Best left until mid late afternoon or such.

 

[buddazero]

OK. The air temp will change a lot faster than the coolant so need to make sure that the ambient air temp is fairly steady for a several hours first.
Nighttime temps can change rapidly. Best left until mid late afternoon or such.

Ok I see. I ride to work at 7am, get there for 8am, then I don't leave until 6pm. So from 8:30am to 6pm bike is off. Is that enough time you think?

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

Should be OK yeah. This isn't a big thing, just want to check the sensor calibration isn't way off. I highly doubt it is.

 

[buddazero]

Should be OK yeah. This isn't a big thing, just want to check the sensor calibration isn't way off. I highly doubt it is.

Copy that. And listen I'm all for going in and "releaving the pressure" if something is off.

And thank you for walking me through. Every new I learn something new.

 

[atomsplitter]

Not sure what you mean by "relieving the pressure," but you can also get a new radiator cap to ensure you're lifting at the proper system pressure. The cap opening pressure should be 1.2 bar or 3 psig, the thermostat starts opening at 85 degrees C and the cooling fan starts at 103 degrees C. In summer the delta T between ambient air and thermostat opening is less than winter i.e. the coolant is hot from the sun to start with, so heat up is much faster when the weather is hot. Heat load from the engine remains the same at idle regardless of time of year. So, in summer you start the engine and the coolant is already at or above 90 degrees F so it takes less time to reach thermostat opening and fan start temps than it does when the air (and thus radiator) is much colder to begin with.

 

[PhantomErik]

If the reservoir is at the right level wouldn’t simply running the bike work out any air bubbles trapped in the system? Recently flushed my radiator and opened the bleed screw in the process. Haven’t risen since so couldn’t say if it’s running hotter or not

 

[buddazero]

I’m gonna check the ambient and coolant temp before I leave for work. Can someone please show me where on the bike the bleed screw is with a picture? Just in case if I need to get to it. I have a Rocket 3 Roadster 2018.

 

[R-III-R Turbo]

That's it there (yellow arrow). It's good for bleeding the cylinder head.

Notice how the rad cap/filler spout is higher in the system. Need to manipulate air out that way too.
But first drain the expansion bottle so it don't run out the filler spout.

 

[buddazero]

Everytime I try to turn the cap it won’t budge, I can’t seem to grip it right.

Also I’m a broadcast engineer, not a mechanical. So if I say things that may seem stupid or obvious I apologies.

In 20 mins I’m gonna plug in tune Ecu and update yall on the temps.

Some suspect that my dealer didn’t “bleed” it right. Maybe that’s the case so I’m gonna have to do the process myself just to be sure. But we’ll cross that bridge when we get to it.

Thank you for sending pics. I’m guessing your rocket and mine are practically the same even though they’re from different years.

 

[PhantomErik]

Everytime I try to turn the cap it won’t budge, I can’t seem to grip it right.

Also I’m a broadcast engineer, not a mechanical. So if I say things that may seem stupid or obvious I apologies.

In 20 mins I’m gonna plug in tune Ecu and update yall on the temps.

Some suspect that my dealer didn’t “bleed” it right. Maybe that’s the case so I’m gonna have to do the process myself just to be sure. But we’ll cross that bridge when we get to it.

Thank you for sending pics. I’m guessing your rocket and mine are practically the same even though they’re from different years.

It has a locking screw on it. It is very small