Removing Rear Wheel - 2022 GT

[Bedifferent]

I learned a long time ago when I use to lift my Rocket Touring, the front wheel had to be lashed so it couldn't turn. I used to lash it to the crash bars. Not so easy to do with my GT, so I'm going to be working that out. I may have to fabricate a wheel chock that I can fasten to at least a 24 x 24 inch platform/plywood board. Some tie down straps fastened to the board would work as well. If I drive the bike up on the platform first and block the front tire front and back, that would be a good start. I made this using some conveyor rollers for rotating the rear tire during installs on my touring, but it might work for rotating the front tire for cleaning if I drive the front tire onto the rollers. The rollers can be adjusted to different positions to accommodate different diameter tire. It will all be a work in progress as my needs evolve. Another picture here on how I use to a anchor my front wheel and stabilize my bike. All sorts of gadgets I made if you look closely.

 

[Journeyman]

Yikes.....now that's what I call gymnastics!

I've quickly learned there's NO easy way to work of the beautiful beast. Not even changing brake pads ;-(

There's really not much too it and the equipment can be fairly inexpensive. I'd say most members here use something like this (maybe a different brand, but also from China) and in all the years I've been on this forum I've never heard of one dropping a bike (including the more massive 2.3s, which I also had). Still, it's very smart to back things up.

As for chocking the wheels. I just use scraps of 2x6s (or whatever) to slip flat under the wheel I'm not removing.

Put a piece of 2 x 6 under the kickstand to stand the bike more upright. Slip the ATV jack under the motor. Start lifting slowly. Check the placement again. Lift all the way. Lock the stand. Place backup in place (from above or through the scissors of the jack). Strap bike to jack- especially if not backed up from above. Chock wheel that remains on bike.

It takes, maybe, 4 minutes. Not having to borrow a jack will also make it much quicker ;-).

 

[lotus]

Thanks to all for the suggestions on getting the rear wheel off the ground safely and without damage to the machine.........

It's done, and this is how I did it safely with a standard single pedestal floor jack. See pics
I discovered the fulcrum point for this bike is between the rear edge of the sump and front of CAT.
1) I strapped the front wheel and handle bars to the T stand (see pic) to keep it stable and from lifting during jacking
2) Carefully placed jack (w/board) under the bike so that it contacts the rear most edge of sump and CAT flat surface.
3) Slightly loosened wheels bolts
4) Jacked up until 2" gap between tire and floor. The secured front tire allows the bike to pivot up without lifting off the stand.
5) Removed the wheel for brake pad swap. Was stable and no damage to the bike.

See pics

 

[Jagster]

Ah!....We call that a trolley jack. Makes a bit more sense to me now.
Good job you had your four legged helper on hand to assist

 

[wiso]

I used a standard jack under the right rear with a small thin board the size of a laptop to spread the load. Lifted rear fine. No straps chocks or other things needed. Did the front the same way, just lifted on right front of pan. Super simple.

 

[SDW007]

It's just a standard single pedestal type....

Probably the least stable option and the most likely option to damage your engine sump. Triumph, in the Rocket 3 service manual, identifies the jack points on the sump. Putting all of that weight on a single point on the sump using a single pedestal type jack would be a poor choice in my opinion. Very risky.