Thank you, I'll do that. I've only had the bike for a month so far, so I'm still learning all the quirks. I appreciate you taking the time to point me in the right direction.
This is the connector that I disconnected while trying to figure out the cause.
You just need to hook up TuneECU and it'll show what you are getting for TPS voltage. Watch the video it explains BOTH the android and windows versions.
Disconnecting that sensor's input to the EFI sets voltage at 0. Using TuneECU the OBD reader is connected to the ECU, you'll see what the ECU is getting as input, the sensor could be putting out .6 volts to your multimeter, but that's meaningless if the ECU is reading 0. You need to read what the ECU is seeing.
Like the government, "we're here to help."
Turbo brings up a good point, where the throttle cables come in make sure those linkages are well lubricated and clean (and lube the throttle cables while you're at it). The idle stepper motor can also be your problem, that can be tested with TuneECU as well. If the primary TPS is correctly set at .6 Volts when the idle stepper is fully open it should read .72 (or .12 volts above primary TPS voltage).
This ended up working. Visibly there's almost no difference between the throttle plate position, but I felt an extra click as it was closing as if it was getting past an obstacle. Now it starts at a reasonable idle. I still think that I want to take a look at the TuneECU numbers before I do anything else, but I can at least start the bike without it trying to explode itself. I'm rather amazed that it will red-line with such a little opening in the throttle plates. Thanks again everyone for your time and knowledge.
