Bone crusher
I'd rather be lucky than smart
Is there a rebuild kit for my 2010 roadster rear master cylinder? If so could someone point me in the right direction.Thanks
Rebuilding rear master cylinder
- Thread starter Bone crusher
- Start date
Pedro
Turbocharged
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2007
- Messages
- 608
- Location
- Rockingham , Western Australia
- Ride
- 05 TTS , Lush Rocket standard
I repaired my rear master on my standard with a piston kit . Worked out well for me
rocketjohn
Top Fuel
Parts should be available from the stealer!
Grumpy Ole Codger
Miserable as FECK
Hi all, I have only just bought my Rocket 111 and am already having a few problems with the rear brake. I'm not a heavy user at all, pretty much a 50/50 ratio. If I use the rear brake only once and then stop a further 500m down the road the rear caliper/disc are red hot. The bike appears to freewheel without hindrance. I have had the caliper off and it would appear to be functioning okay. My mechanical knowledge is limited and have been advised to replace/rebuild rear master cylinder and caliper. Wher is the best place in the UK to acquire these parts? Had a look on various Triumph dealer websites and the cost if extortionate. Have also been advised to replace all pads and may need new disc. Help???
TURBO200R4
stand up straight and grab the world by the a$$
if u problem was in the foot brake cylinder then when u applied the foot brake and it held pressure to keep the brakes on then u would also have the brake light staying on which would be easy to check.
now if the brake light is staying on then your pedal might not be allowing all the fluid to go back in the reservoir maybe adjustment of the pedal?
more than likely it is the caliper sticking on.
Grumpy Ole Codger
Miserable as FECK
Thank you for the advice. I have had so much 'advice' from those arm chair mechanics its unreal! At last a position to start from As previously stated, my mechanical knowledge is limited to changing spark plugs and bulbs...lol
Nat67
Rockgoblin
Sounds like your caliper is a bit sticky .
Often , if the pads are worn the exposed portion of the piston can get dirtied up making it reluctant to return when you release the brake ! The same can happen after having new pads fitted .
Try removing the caliper and putting the gentlest touch on the brake pedal , just enough to get the piston past their sitting point . Then remove the pads and give the caliper a good clean up with brake cleaner concentrating on the pistons . When spanky clean , a thin coat of coppaslip brake grease around the exposed parts of the piston and seals , a very thin smear to the back of the pads and refit them to the calipre . Ease the pads apart with a blunt instument such as a thin tyre iron and refit the caliper to the disc !
But obviously only do this if pedal adjustment etc is good ! The disc would need to be badly scored , cracked between mounting holes or run so hot it had warped before it would need replacing . If the disc was warped you would more than likely feel that as pulsing in the pedal or as a grab when you pushed the bike along . If in doubt , lift the rear wheel and check the runout of the disc !
Remember tho , the r3s are heavy beasts and the discs do get hot under braking but rarely hot enough to warp on a rear !
Often , if the pads are worn the exposed portion of the piston can get dirtied up making it reluctant to return when you release the brake ! The same can happen after having new pads fitted .
Try removing the caliper and putting the gentlest touch on the brake pedal , just enough to get the piston past their sitting point . Then remove the pads and give the caliper a good clean up with brake cleaner concentrating on the pistons . When spanky clean , a thin coat of coppaslip brake grease around the exposed parts of the piston and seals , a very thin smear to the back of the pads and refit them to the calipre . Ease the pads apart with a blunt instument such as a thin tyre iron and refit the caliper to the disc !
But obviously only do this if pedal adjustment etc is good ! The disc would need to be badly scored , cracked between mounting holes or run so hot it had warped before it would need replacing . If the disc was warped you would more than likely feel that as pulsing in the pedal or as a grab when you pushed the bike along . If in doubt , lift the rear wheel and check the runout of the disc !
Remember tho , the r3s are heavy beasts and the discs do get hot under braking but rarely hot enough to warp on a rear !
Nat67
Rockgoblin
World of Triumph are a good start for parts , that said Ebay search yields good results far cheaper !
Grumpy Ole Codger
Miserable as FECK
Thank you Nat, that is a proper instruction and explanation. As I have said before I am a very raw beginner in the world of the R3 - what's the best way to hold the bike up to remove the rear wheel/get access to the calliper? Last time was a car jack and a couple of bits of 4 X 2 along with a good dollop of luck!
Nat67
Rockgoblin
Aw man , the eternal question ?
There are literally dozens of posts here on that subject ! Personally , I fabricated a cradle that bolts to the frame and then use an ATV lift but I suggest you search the threads til you find a system that suits you !
Google flipmeister , I believe they make a roll on stand that will raise the rear wheel ?
