Rebuilding rear master cylinder

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

It's called bonding ! Wait til you get a load of the tune ecu diagnostics program ?

Ah....now that's the next thing to sort out! It has what I believe is a Zard shorty exhaust system fitted and what a sound track, but only the stock air filter. Tick over is somewhat lumpy and has a tendency to cut out when sitting in traffic or pulling up to a junction. Looking to put K^N filter or the Ramair system in but this will require a new 'tune' but this is in the future. One step at a time!!!

 

[Nat67]

Ah....now that's the next thing to sort out! It has what I believe is a Zard shorty exhaust system fitted and what a sound track, but only the stock air filter. Tick over is somewhat lumpy and has a tendency to cut out when sitting in traffic or pulling up to a junction. Looking to put K^N filter or the Ramair system in but this will require a new 'tune' but this is in the future. One step at a time!!!

Apart from the sound , there is not much benefit to just an exhaust change , but sort the induction and get a proper tune and you will unleash the beast !
There is an in house tuning wizard on this forum that can help you out with that if asked nicely ?
In the mean time , it will pay you to download Tune ECU on your laptop . It's a free app .
Familiarize yourself with it and when ready order the Lonelek OBD cable for £20 .
It will open up a whole new and money saving world for you allowing diagnostics , testing and tuning that would cost a fortune to have done at the dealers !
It all sounds complicated , but with help from the great guys here , even I learned to do it and I am computer dumb !
The lumpy tickover you mention and cutting out indicates an Iscv test / adjustment is needed , and possibly a throttle body balance . All very easily done with the tune ecu program !

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

Apart from the sound , there is not much benefit to just an exhaust change , but sort the induction and get a proper tune and you will unleash the beast !
There is an in house tuning wizard on this forum that can help you out with that if asked nicely ?
In the mean time , it will pay you to download Tune ECU on your laptop . It's a free app .
Familiarize yourself with it and when ready order the Lonelek OBD cable for £20 .
It will open up a whole new and money saving world for you allowing diagnostics , testing and tuning that would cost a fortune to have done at the dealers !
It all sounds complicated , but with help from the great guys here , even I learned to do it and I am computer dumb !
The lumpy tickover you mention and cutting out indicates an Iscv test / adjustment is needed , and possibly a throttle body balance . All very easily done with the tune ecu program !

Hi Nat,
I've spent all day playing around with the brakes, front and rear. It would appear that neither end of the bike had had much more than a pad change occasionally when needed. All the callipers were caked with dirt and brake dust. I've cleaned all the pistons with a tooth brush and brake cleaner, lashings of copper slip grease applied to all the pistons, pistons worked up and down to get the grease into place. A trickier job than I thought! You press brake lever and number one pops out, you squeeze it back in and number 3 pops out etc... The long and the short, all pads replaced and test ridden for 10 miles using both front and rear to bed in new pads. I spent the last mile or so using just rear brake gently and checked temperature once home. Calliper was hot, just too hot to leave your hand on there and the disc was a comparable temperature. Fronts were stone cold! Is this cured? Checked pedal and the brake light comes on and off immediately so no problem there. I shall await your comments with baited breath!!

 

[TURBO200R4]

fronts stone cold? r u sure they r working

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

fronts stone cold? r u sure they r working

Well I think so...I was for the last couple of miles using just rear brake though, gently mind. The rear brake is not binding at all, no squeaking, grinding, juddering etc...just works fine but it gets so hot!! Maybe it's just me??? Maybe I'm just not used to having such a 'Hot' bike??

 

[Nat67]

The heat of the caliper would depend on the use of the rear brake ergo , how long is a piece of string ?
The rear brake is the least effective , especially on a bike as heavy as the r3 and the energy used to drag the beast down is transferred into heat .
Are you also possibly riding the pedal ?
Try riding the bike and not use the rear brake at all and then see if it is still getting hot !

 

[TURBO200R4]

i would guess that is why the rocket has two rotors up front more for the heat dissipation than for braking.

 

[barbagris]

It has what I believe is a Zard shorty exhaust system fitted and what a sound track, but only the stock air filter.

It does look like a Zard. If so a simple balancing of throttles and a 12min tune should sort it. Maybe ISCV.

Don’t expect miracles with the Zard. iirc it actually restricts performance.

 

[Grumpy Ole Codger]

The heat of the caliper would depend on the use of the rear brake ergo , how long is a piece of string ?
The rear brake is the least effective , especially on a bike as heavy as the r3 and the energy used to drag the beast down is transferred into heat .
Are you also possibly riding the pedal ?
Try riding the bike and not use the rear brake at all and then see if it is still getting hot !

Hi Nat, been out in between showers and rode az suggested without using rear brake. Rezult? Stone cold so not draggi g or binding. Az for riding the pedal..made zure I wasnt!!

 

[Nat67]

In that case it sounds all good !
I rarely use my back brake other than slipping through traffic or settling the bike into fast bends . I try to avoid emergency stops !
The general rule of thumb I believe is 70% front to 30% rear !