Rear brake problem

Adam79

Ratsnest
Joined
Mar 26, 2014
Messages
138
Location
Warwick Qld
Ride
2011 R3R
Hi guys,

Having some trouble with my rear brake, few weeks ago we went on holiday and totally lost all instrumentation, lights, fuel gauge everything total fail, went right home, seem to dry out and solve it self, but ever since the rear brake goes right to the floor, I have pulled and change to new fluid and pads, there is no obvious leak, was wandering hoping someone here may have had the problem and solved it.
We tow a trailer and I like having back brakes for that (not that I use them for that but good to have),
PLEASE HELP ME, kind of think it's bleeding in on it's self (master cyclender) maybe rebuild kit needed for it.
 
Hmm, if it just goes straight to the floor you probably have air in there still. If the air gets in by itself then you'll probably need either a new line or a new entire cylinder. I'm far from a brake expert, but it seems like a pretty mechanical thing, all you can really do is replace things. But if air is getting in, fluid should be getting out... any wet spots on there?

Getting some braided steel line for it is a good idea in itself too, better feel and no expansion when you brake, so that might be worthwhile to start with. Replace the lines first and see if that alleviates your issue. Spiegler and HEL are two brands that spring to mind. I know HEL at least offers both front and back in a package in the color of your choice.

http://www.r3owners.net/threads/stainless-steel-brake-lines.19812/
 
Yep need the proper software to bleed the brakes. I have it but can't recall the name of it right now. I know that when the ABS solenoids are open you will have NO FIRM PEDAL and it will go straight to the floor. I think something went hay wire and the ABS isn't moving the solenoids when you lost power. I doubt you need to rebuild anything.

Check the fuse box. Make sure all the connectors are pushed up into the fuse box and contact with the fuses. Especially the 30 amp main fuse. I had lost of power and found that the plastic fuse box wasn't holding the connectors to the fuse. I bypassed the the fuse box altogether and installed a inline fuse holder with 30 amp fuse. Never had the problem again.
 
Oh yeah, ABS, forgot about that. I'm unlucky and don't have any... (couldn't pass up the deal on my non-ABS bike at the time). Yeah, with electrical issues causing issues in the first place that's no doubt it. Still might be worth some steel braided lines, but not as a fix.
 
Thanx for the info guys, there is no wet spot or sign of a leak, no air in the line was coming through on the bleed, will check all electrical connections and fuses, no ABS light though so didn't think of electrical problem.
 
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