R3T Larger Lowers & Pattern

[barbagris]

I have a full size drill press and many different grades of hardened bits. Not an problem

Actually all you need are fairly cheap wood / soft material bits. These have a very sharp point in the centre witch will not slide about. A lot of metalworking bits cut TOO hard and will cause cracking. And VERY little pressure - highish speed.

Scrape material out - not CUT it out. if you smell burning you're going to fast.

 

[Bedifferent]

I backed out of the shop today and now know what your concern is. I had my wheel all the way to the right in the stops and the stock deflectors were very close to the radiator shrouds. Hmmmm.

I'd love to have the extra wind protection but I'm not sure how we could do it.

The larger ones I have do not hit, they just clear nicely. The bigger ones or second pattern I posted would require a cut for clearance just in case.

 

[Navigator]

Actually all you need are fairly cheap wood / soft material bits. These have a very sharp point in the centre witch will not slide about. A lot of metalworking bits cut TOO hard and will cause cracking. And VERY little pressure - highish speed.

Scrape material out - not CUT it out. if you smell burning you're going to fast.

Yes, self tapping. I've got some and if I don't have the right one, my neighbor across the street with the 24x36 ft wood shop will does, or ACE Hardware.

 

[Bedifferent]

Yes, self tapping. I've got some and if I don't have the right one, my neighbor across the street with the 24x36 ft wood shop will does, or ACE Hardware.

I have a set of those I use when I want a nice clean more accurate hole cut. They were known in my day and are still known as a set of Brad Point Bits derived from the sharp guide point similar to a small brad nail.

 

[Bedifferent]

So I went out today and got my bike out in 30 degree temps to take some pictures. I froze my arse off, but I thought it needed to be done to illustrate and answer some questions.

First of all the pictures show my larger lowers (that I hand made..Not the ones I am having laser cut which are the same size) and my hand wind deflectors as well mounted on my bike. You can now see the size and proportions of each. I then went downstairs and proceeded to make an exact wood copy of the largest lowers that I posted. They were the ones that I put a little cutaway in to make sure they would clear the radiator shroud. I painted the surface gray and in spite of how the pictures look they do not hit the shroud.

For my bike, the cut would not matter as it appears I could put huge mudflaps on my bike and things would still not hit anything or the shroud. I got to thinking...if you had a clearance issue all anyone would have to do is run the stock lowers under the new larger lowers. That would move the larger lowers out further and they would never hit. You would, however, have to double up on the small steel bushings in the holes or find some 3/8 “ nylon spacers to fill out the holes. You would also need some longer button head screws to accommodate the extra thickness. I had the hole sized in my laser cuts to accommodate the bushings. Backing them with the originals would also provide more support behind even though it would not be needed.

I also included some pictures showing how they would just fit in a flat rate package and how the originals, the large version and the extra large versions compare. I make no claim as to how well they block and direct air flow. My purpose when I made mine was to block more air for a warmer ride in cold temperatures. Look over these pictures and comment if you like.

One last thought...Although they would probably do a better job, I think the bigger version are a little too much. Then again they are made out of wood and not clear like the acrylic would be...that skews the photos and appearance.

 

[Bedifferent]

Last 3 Pictures..