NOS: 75 HP: $500 approx..

Inthe8s

Standard Bore
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Feb 17, 2010
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lakeville mn. "tundra"
I see no reason the Rocket III cannot make 25hp. per cyl. on nitrous reliably for $500..
Big motor, low compression, conservatively built..( plenty to build on )..I have ran nitrous on many big block chevy's and am going to assemble a kit for my rocket soon..I have jardines, 3 k&ns , sec. removal. etc.. This site is full of info, but seems lacking of understanding of how to make nos work dependably. except for a few individuals...

I am looking at a basic kit of: wet system only, 3 fogger nozzles after throttle bodies,
wide open throttle only, beginning in 3rd gear..should cure getting passed on the big end.....Then a more advanced kit later on..(timing retard box, adjustible progressive system, tether system so nitrous hits quicker).. Has anyone done this??

I think the Rocket could hang with a turbo or superchager on the juice dependably for $500, plus your install and test time..Is there any interest??
 
I toyed with the idea of a dry system for just a little extra power. But once the triples were on there wasn't an intake plenum to stick the fogger into. I'd be interested in hearing how you get a wet system hooked up when youre done.
Be sure to take lots of pictures.
 
Nos

WELL youll find it all adds up to a lot more than $ 500 to create a reliable system and you dont want the nitrous to hit to hard by the time you get it all together with all the bits and peices not to mention the time involved in R&D and tuning time DYNO time and if you want to make serious HP youll need the good internal parts for reliability but if you already have a built engine you can then add some nos for extra power and be reliable IT seems all the NOS bike owners get tired of filling the bottle and the problem is the stock pistons will not hold up and you end up building the motor anyway
 
good point

how much nitrous can the stock pistons take reliably..Pistons are usually the the weak link...unless the top ring land is extremely thin, at a compression ratio of 8.7:1 the piston should be able to handle the extra cylinder pressure.. are people using superchargers or turbos on stock pistons..it is all about cylinder pressure no matter what the add on..I have not inspected a stock piston.. Does anyone have a picture of a stock Rocket III piston ??
 
Nos

IF YOUR IN THE 8s with a R3 you should know your going to need forged pistons if you want to make serious power BUT you can experiment if you want to take the chance
 
The rule of thumb for nitrous is 1/2 of the NA engine output can be used with a safe nitrous kit - running rich at 5.2-5.5 enrichment ratio. If the flow and pressure is known, then 5.5-6.0 is very safe.​

The supercharged kits are using stock internals to exceed 250 hp. So there is no problem safely running a 75hp shot in the stock rocket. The top ring land is well down from the top of the piston. The issue will be whether you want to run the stock fuel pump or an auxillary enrichment pump. The stock pump will run out of flow, but a larger replacement if easy and fairly inexpensive - more simple/safe than a secondary pump.​

I would recommend a wet 3-port system for best results, and safety. Dry shots that expect the air temp sensor to correct are foolish - the ECU can take 10 seconds to refresh the air temp sensor readings.​

► 3 stainless nozzles mounted in the adapter between the head and throttle body.
► Run high pressure poly tubing to a well designed distribution block for fuel and N2O.
► Locate the distribution block and solenoids as close to the nozzles as possible - on top of the engine is an easy location.
► Keep the nitrous line from the bottle to the solenoid as short as possible, and run the largest bottle that you can easily fit. Mounting a 2.5lb bottle is easy, but 1-2 20oz bottles can be hidden.


Flow your fuel pump and jets to KNOW the actual flow and pressures. Failure to do this and you can run into trouble.


If you can assemble and install the kit yourself, you can build a very good (simple) system for $300-350 (retail), a progressive unit will be $190 more. Just watch where you source parts - many kits available for bikes are JUNK.

Ignition advance will depend on a few issues - fuel, temps, etc. but 2.0-2.5 degrees retard for each 50hp is safe on pump gas under 80 hp.


When you really want to get serious, call me and I can help on some of the technical details, and sourcing parts. I build custom N2O systems regularly - including regulated pusher systems with NANO kits. On higher output sysems I use a progressive controller that also controls which gear the system will activate in, the rpm window where nitrous is turned on and off, the TPS activation, and much more.



-Wayne

 
A few photos:

Where the owner insisted on braided lines. Notice the restriction to airflow. Just an 80hp shot on a stock bike.




A 150hp shot on a modified engine. Notice that the lines do not obstruct airflow, and no braided lines to rub/chafe anything. Also, the distribution block is shaped and mounted so that is does not hinder flow, yet allows quick supply of fuel/N2O in a straight path to nozzles which spray directly over injector path. [Poor quality phone pic.]
 
Ride in ride out

SO WAYNE what will you charge for a drive in drive out complete setup dyno tuned ready to race ??
 
IMFASTTOO said:
SO WAYNE what will you charge for a drive in drive out complete setup dyno tuned ready to race ??
Click to expand...

One Miiiiiillion dollars. MwuuHAhahahahah! [Dr. Evil voice]


That would depend on what you want/need.

Nitrous bottle size, output/fuel system requirements, simple on/off or progressive controller, future needs for upgrade, NANO "pusher" system, etc.

Contact me with your requirements, and I can put together pricing and labor.
 
I put together a LONG post including options, pricing, installation and technical details, etc. But it seems to have been lost in the posting process of this site.


I will put the details back together and repost it here later today.
 
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