Nightmare job and a choice to make

[sal60]

Hi guys, I would like to ask your opinion about a choice I want to make.

unfortunately couple months ago I had a problem with my transmission and I found I have to rebuild it and to do anything inside the rocket transmission you have to take the engine out and split the case, basically I have to disassemble every thing except the wire harness and the front fork (nightmare job)
my rocket has about 45k miles and I'm asking myself would it be smart to change the piston rings and sleeves while I'm at it too or not?

is it easy to do that or I'm taking a big risk missing with timing and other issue, is it worth it to change them on a bike with 45K miles or they should be in pretty good condition giving that the manufacture nowadays making these parts from very good materials.
I wonder if anyone did that before or have experience in this area?!

Regards,
Sal

 

[mexican]

Hello my friend!!, nice to hear from you!
Sorry i can not give you any advise on the subject

 

[sal60]

Hello my friend!!, nice to hear from you!
Sorry i can not give you any advise on the subject

Hey Lube, how are you man .. long time no talk .. still waiting for your next visit?!!

 

[warp9.9]

I would not worry about it unless you want to beef her up and add higher compression pistons. The liners are nickelseal they won't be worn as long as you compression is up there you will be fine. Its your call though I have the timing tool I can send to you to use. Pulling the liners the way the book states is harder but you do not have to pull the rods. I have done it that way before. I also changed them while the engine is in the bike both ways. The last set of pistons I put in I did end up giving the old liners to Todd Nelson who had Carpenter Racing install them in when they did his 240 kit. He had some messed up pistons which scored the liners(actually it was the broken valves that mess up the pistons which screwed up the liners). If you go the route of pulling the rods to take the pistons out you will need new rod bolts the OEM ones stretch and it calls for them to be changed. IDK has 110,000 miles on his original pistons so I say if yours aint messed up leave them. You can always change them later if they go bad and do it while the engine is in the bike. Have to measured th edrop in you tensioner yet?

 

[teraeric]

i always give in and spend the incremental cost to do all the stuff i ever want to do on a motor to 'save money' if i ever have it apart for any other reason... it just seems the time to do it: one outage; one time apart; one big nasty bill...

 

[STRIPES]

The transmission work appears to be straightforward. Looks simple. I wouldn't know where to start replacing sleeves. If it were me I would do just the tranny.

 

[warp9.9]

Sleeves are not particularly hard once the pop loose but as Ruzzle pointed out the nickel seal is extremely hard and does not wear unless something gets in there and damages them. Like if you were to break or crush a ring land and fold the ring up so it scrapes the cylinder.
I still say unless your wanting to up the compression and change the cams or have something wrong with the liners do not mess with what aint broke. Since your getting the update kit which has a head gasket you can save just keep the extra stuff in case you need it later.
Of course I would look at the tensioner and see what the drop is to figure out wether you need to change anything there or hold off for later.

 

[sal60]

Sleeves are not particularly hard once the pop loose but as Ruzzle pointed out the nickel seal is extremely hard and does not wear unless something gets in there and damages them. Like if you were to break or crush a ring land and fold the ring up so it scrapes the cylinder.
I still say unless your wanting to up the compression and change the cams or have something wrong with the liners do not mess with what aint broke. Since your getting the update kit which has a head gasket you can save just keep the extra stuff in case you need it later.
Of course I would look at the tensioner and see what the drop is to figure out wether you need to change anything there or hold off for later.

No Scotty .. I didn't check the tensioner test .. but I think you haven't explained this part to me yet .. I guess that happened due to the old age ;-)

 

[sal60]

i always give in and spend the incremental cost to do all the stuff i ever want to do on a motor to 'save money' if i ever have it apart for any other reason... it just seems the time to do it: one outage; one time apart; one big nasty bill...

yeah the big bill hurts so far the transmission re build bill about $900 that without other expenses like re building Stator and up grade kit .....

 

[warp9.9]

No Scotty .. I didn't check the tensioner test .. but I think you haven't explained this part to me yet .. I guess that happened due to the old age ;-)

Sal remember I sent you the picture on how to measure the tensioner drop with a claiper?