My Moto Hobo life

Hmm, that's effectively the same price had you ordered directly from Rick's.
Nope $225 virtually everywhere including Rick's vs $200 accepted offer - both have free shipping but $50 extra for express from Rick's.
 
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Checked stator -

Meter probes not touching: meter reads OL.

When positive probe into any of the three terminals and neg probe on engine ground or battery ground: meter reads 6.4 ohms.
Also checked with test light clamp end to positive, and probe to any of the three terminals: lights.

We charged the battery to 13.6V and started the motor. Then the battery went to 12.9V. Turned on bright lights and applied brake (for brake light draw) as the engine was running and the voltage reading would drop slowly like 12.8 12.7 12.6.

Charging was not keeping up with the draw.

edit
Also testing from from any of the three terminals to the other terminals read 6.4 ohms.
 
checked stator
meter not probes not touching meter reads OL when pos probe into any of the three terminals and neg probe on to eng ground or bat ground meter reads 6.4 ohms.
also checked with test light clamp end to pos and probe to any of the three treminals lights up.
we charged the battery to 13.6 started motor then it went to 12.9 turned on bright lights and applied brake (for brake light draw) as it was running it would drop
(voltage) slowly like 12.8 12.7 12.6
charging was not keeping up with the draw..

edit
also testing from from any of the three terminals to the other terminals read 6.4 ohms.
Sorry mate, your diagnosis terminology wording is different to DEcosse's and I am unsure if you confirmed the stator was stuffed or good?

Edit: Looks like @tribal has confirmed stuffed! :(

From @DEcosse Post #185
"Here is the extremely simple acid test, which you can either do yourself or ask them to do:
Set meter to resistance
Disconnect Stator from R/R
Put Black Probe on Engine Ground
Put Red Probe in to any ONE** terminal (it is difficult to get a probe to read into the terminal - you may need a piece of wire or paper clip)
Read resistance:
If you get 'short' (zero ohms or close to zero ohms) then stator is indeed fried.
If it is NOT short, your stator is good

** Super important - you are not reading between pins - you MUST read from any single pin to engine ground
It does not matter which pin - ALL will read the same, whether that be good or bad

I guarantee you that if it PASSES that test (i.e. does NOT exhibit short from any pin to engine ground) your stator is good."
 
Sorry mate, your diagnosis terminology wording is different to DEcosse's and I am unsure if you confirmed the stator was stuffed or good?

Edit: Looks like @tribal has confirmed stuffed! :(

From @DEcosse Post #185
"Here is the extremely simple acid test, which you can either do yourself or ask them to do:
Set meter to resistance
Disconnect Stator from R/R
Put Black Probe on Engine Ground
Put Red Probe in to any ONE** terminal (it is difficult to get a probe to read into the terminal - you may need a piece of wire or paper clip)
Read resistance:
If you get 'short' (zero ohms or close to zero ohms) then stator is indeed fried.
If it is NOT short, your stator is good

** Super important - you are not reading between pins - you MUST read from any single pin to engine ground
It does not matter which pin - ALL will read the same, whether that be good or bad

I guarantee you that if it PASSES that test (i.e. does NOT exhibit short from any pin to engine ground) your stator is good."

Shorted,stuffed,bad,burnt,failed,no good,no bueno,won't work,finished,out lived its life,done,time to change,needs replaced,ect. Lol
 
I am thinking that it was 6 ohms
Definily high didnt think about that till u mention it i know meter battery is low.
I guess that would make the resistance .4 ohms
When the replacement gets here i will try to get a more accurate measurement
 
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