Mounting an Exedra Max rear tire on the new 3R = Better Handling

[Journeyman]

This is a DIY install of the Exedra Max on the new 3R. It requires minor modifications to the forward most rear fender and, if doing it yourself, a tire stand and Mojo Lever - I'd say about a two beer rating for time/difficulty.

The result, in my opinion, is a less expensive tire that provides better performance, handling, and wear.

The Exedra Max has proven to be a very good tire on my ’11 Roadster. The Exedra goes for $200, as opposed to $312 (WTF?) for the Cobra Chrome at Rocky Mountain ATV. With an average of three tire changes/year this is a significant difference.

What you can expect: The Exedra is 1” taller, so you have to raise the fender on the front of the swing arm up an extra 1/2.”
* A couple of 1/2" spacers and a short piece of metal (thanks @Tal for the tip) was all that was needed to make the switch. So, the bike sits taller, but for me, with only a 30” inseam, it seems like it’s a couple of inches taller. This will provide you with more clearance (fewer peg drags) and, because the rake is changed, quicker handling that you’ll especially notice on the twisties.

*Edit- I was getting some whistling so I raised the fender up another 1/2" and it went away. So, raise the fender 1"

About the mounting....
Just 5 bolts and the wheel is off!

I use Motion Pro irons to break the beads- easy.

I've been using the Mojo Level on the Roadster and it works great on the 3R too. I balance using Marc Parnes' setup, but the 3R has a large hub opening and I need to see about getting some kind of adapter. This time I used Dyna Beads, but I really prefer the traditional method.

Speaking of wheel weights- there were a boat load of them on there from the factory to balance out the Cobra Chrome. I've never had to use that many weights.

The Cobras wore more on one side and this is what I had left at 3,150 miles....

The front also needs replacing and is cupping (my usual experience with Avons). It'll get changed before meeting up in Maggie Valley next weekend. I usually get about 4,000 from a tire on the Roadster, so I'm not sure if it's just the Chromes, or if the new bike is even more hungry for tires - I guess I'll know in the next 3-4K.

 

[pica]

My rear at 6000... I expecting get to 10000 miles with it... what kind of roads are you riding?

 

[Tal]

This is a DIY install of the Exedra Max on the new 3R. It requires minor modifications to the forward most rear fender and, if doing it yourself, a tire stand and Mojo Lever - I'd say about a two beer rating for time/difficulty.

The result, in my opinion, is a less expensive tire that provides better performance, handling, and wear.

The Exedra Max has proven to be a very good tire on my ’11 Roadster. The Exedra goes for $200, as opposed to $312 (WTF?) for the Cobra Chrome at Rocky Mountain ATV. With an average of three tire changes/year this is a significant difference.

What you can expect: The Exedra is 1” taller, so you have to raise the fender on the front of the swing arm up an extra 1/2.” A couple of 1/2" spacers and a short piece of metal (thanks @Tal for the tip) was all that was needed to make the switch. So, the bike sits taller, but for me, with only a 30” inseam, it seems like it’s a couple of inches taller. This will provide you with more clearance (fewer peg drags) and, because the rake is changed, quicker handling that you’ll especially notice on the twisties.

About the mounting....
Just 5 bolts and the wheel is off!

I use Motion Pro irons to break the beads- easy.

I've been using the Mojo Level on the Roadster and it works great on the 3R too. I balance using Marc Parnes' setup, but the 3R has a large hub opening and I need to see about getting some kind of adapter. This time I used Dyna Beads, but I really prefer the traditional method.

Speaking of wheel weights- there were a boat load of them on there from the factory to balance out the Cobra Chrome. I've never had to use that many weights.

The Cobras wore more on one side and this is what I had left at 3,150 miles....

The front also needs replacing and is cupping (my usual experience with Avons). It'll get changed before meeting up in Maggie Valley next weekend. I usually get about 4,000 from a tire on the Roadster, so I'm not sure if it's just the Chromes, or if the new bike is even more hungry for tires - I guess I'll know in the next 3-4K.

Excellent stuff!...i have been wondering if anyone would do what i'm planning on doing so the feedback is just what i wanted...thankyou sir!...As for the mileage you got from your chromes!!...thats not alot...my cobber who rides alot..(37000kms in two years on his R)...got close to 16000 kms out of his Avon chrome and has fitted a Metzeler 888...so far he is very happy with that. I want the Bridgestone Exedra Max as its a 55 profile and will give me better turn in on the corners...as you said...and good life...i got 16000kms out of my last one on my 2016 Roadster....oh...and a p.s....The Bridgestone Exedra Max cost me $NZ329...the Avon Chromes are $NZ500 plus change.

 

[Journeyman]

It's gotta be our roads, or that's a large part of it. They're very textured here, not smooth blacktop, generally. I also think being blessed with an abundance of super twisty roads puts a lot of stress on the tires with near constant braking and acceleration. Then there's the pure enjoyment of the torque...

The twists and turns allows the use of the entire surface of the tire, which you'd think would give you more miles, but I guess it's overridden (no pun intended) by all of the above.

@Tal I wonder if your buddy were to visit us here for a couple of months if he wouldn't see similar tire life. You were the first I know of to mention swapping in the Exedra. I'm happy to report that so far, other than my being vertically challenged, that it's a very positive improvement.

 

[Kevin frazier]

My rear at 6000... I expecting get to 10000 miles with it... what kind of roads are you riding?

Fastest curviest he can find!

 

[Tal]

It's gotta be our roads, or that's a large part of it. They're very textured here, not smooth blacktop, generally. I also think being blessed with an abundance of super twisty roads puts a lot of stress on the tires with near constant braking and acceleration. Then there's the pure enjoyment of the torque...

The twists and turns allows the use of the entire surface of the tire, which you'd think would give you more miles, but I guess it's overridden (no pun intended) by all of the above.

@Tal I wonder if your buddy were to visit us here for a couple of months if he wouldn't see similar tire life. You were the first I know of to mention swapping in the Exedra. I'm happy to report that so far, other than my being vertically challenged, that it's a very positive improvement.

Well thats a plus....my cobber ,"Worzol" he is known as, is from way up north in England somewhere...he supports the Northampton Saints if thats any help, and has ridden in alot of countries and covered alot of miles and as a consequence just slides along. The Avons on his bike had no snakes left on the tyre edge so he dosnt mess around. Our roads here in NZ are Tarseal and have coarse chip in them...some areas are coarser than others due to the heavy rain those areas get....its to help shed the rain off the road apparently, so i wouldnt think the roads here are better than over there. The two of us went for a ride last saturday and covered a tad over 500 kms for the day with alot of twistie sections and some pretty good speeds. I expect to get around 16000 kms from my rear tyres which equates to 10000 miles. I run 42lb in my rear tyre as does Worzol.

 

[Planet3]

This is a DIY install of the Exedra Max on the new 3R. It requires minor modifications to the forward most rear fender and, if doing it yourself, a tire stand and Mojo Lever - I'd say about a two beer rating for time/difficulty.

The result, in my opinion, is a less expensive tire that provides better performance, handling, and wear.

The Exedra Max has proven to be a very good tire on my ’11 Roadster. The Exedra goes for $200, as opposed to $312 (WTF?) for the Cobra Chrome at Rocky Mountain ATV. With an average of three tire changes/year this is a significant difference.

What you can expect: The Exedra is 1” taller, so you have to raise the fender on the front of the swing arm up an extra 1/2.” A couple of 1/2" spacers and a short piece of metal (thanks @Tal for the tip) was all that was needed to make the switch. So, the bike sits taller, but for me, with only a 30” inseam, it seems like it’s a couple of inches taller. This will provide you with more clearance (fewer peg drags) and, because the rake is changed, quicker handling that you’ll especially notice on the twisties.

About the mounting....
Just 5 bolts and the wheel is off!

I use Motion Pro irons to break the beads- easy.

I've been using the Mojo Level on the Roadster and it works great on the 3R too. I balance using Marc Parnes' setup, but the 3R has a large hub opening and I need to see about getting some kind of adapter. This time I used Dyna Beads, but I really prefer the traditional method.

Speaking of wheel weights- there were a boat load of them on there from the factory to balance out the Cobra Chrome. I've never had to use that many weights.

The Cobras wore more on one side and this is what I had left at 3,150 miles....

The front also needs replacing and is cupping (my usual experience with Avons). It'll get changed before meeting up in Maggie Valley next weekend. I usually get about 4,000 from a tire on the Roadster, so I'm not sure if it's just the Chromes, or if the new bike is even more hungry for tires - I guess I'll know in the next 3-4K.

Excellent idea with the 55 profile. Raises the rear a touch which increases turn-in speed. We used to do this with hayabusas to make them turn quicker

 

[Jay]

Thanks for this write-up. Two questions:

How do you avoid dinging the painted rim with the bead breakers? I have the same tool set that I use on my ‘13 Rocket with silver rims and I use the blue rim guards. Last time I unmounted on a painted rim, it didn’t turn out so well. Maybe just need more practice or a good coach.

Secondly, with a different profile tire, does that mess anything up on the traction control since it changes the geometry? I dark sided my touring bike and the lower grip of the car tire seemed to affect the ABS response. So curious if you noticed any changes to the traction control or other nannies on the 2.5L model.

 

[pica]

Thanks for this write-up. Two questions:

How do you avoid dinging the painted rim with the bead breakers? I have the same tool set that I use on my ‘13 Rocket with silver rims and I use the blue rim guards. Last time I unmounted on a painted rim, it didn’t turn out so well. Maybe just need more practice or a good coach.

Secondly, with a different profile tire, does that mess anything up on the traction control since it changes the geometry? I dark sided my touring bike and the lower grip of the car tire seemed to affect the ABS response. So curious if you noticed any changes to the traction control or other nannies on the 2.5L model.

get some tire bead protectors... or make your own from gallon orange juice containers...

 

[Journeyman]

Thanks for this write-up. Two questions:

How do you avoid dinging the painted rim with the bead breakers? I have the same tool set that I use on my ‘13 Rocket with silver rims and I use the blue rim guards. Last time I unmounted on a painted rim, it didn’t turn out so well. Maybe just need more practice or a good coach.

Secondly, with a different profile tire, does that mess anything up on the traction control since it changes the geometry? I dark sided my touring bike and the lower grip of the car tire seemed to affect the ABS response. So curious if you noticed any changes to the traction control or other nannies on the 2.5L model.

I'm also used to working with the unfinished rims on the Roadster, so I've been extra careful with these rims, but everything OK so far with a change in front and back. I spray soap on the tire first and then carefully push the first iron in. IF it were to scratch it would be inside the rim. For those not familiar with the Motion Pro Bead Breaker, the second iron slips "inside" the forked opening of the first iron and then creates a levering action that breaks the bead, after a half-dozen or more such insertions working your way around the rim. At some point I may build something out of wood to break the bead with leverage.

Although the Bead Breakers can be used to remove and mount tires it's not a workable system for the Rockets- I've tried, don't. The Mojo Lever is the best investment I've made, allowing me to change front and rear tires on the Rockets. Having watched motorcycle mechanics with tire changing machines struggle and scratch/ding my Roadster rims, for $50 a pop, I decided to go my own way and haven't looked back. I've been able to change tires in 40º weather, but when it's warm or hot outide it's even easier, especially with the changed rim design on the new bikes.

I use the rim protectors when I use a tire iron to make an opening to get the mojo lever started and one of those yellow extra hands thingies (at minute 2:00 in the video) to keep the tire locked to the rim, when mounting, so it doesn't slip back down behind the mojo lever. What I've learned is that if I'm pulling too hard on the Mojo Lever I'm not doing something right. The trick is to keep pushing the tire down on the rim- this seems counter intuitive, but because the rim is a smaller diameter toward the center this actually gives the tire more room to slip over that last section. You can see that toward the end of the video.

@Jay what are you using to remove and mount the tires?

I've not noticed any change in traction control or ABS. That is, no alerts and everything seems to work fine. I'm coming from the Roadster, so traction control is new to me and not sure that I would notice.

I can say that, without a doubt, the handling is dramatically improved due to the decreased rake. It's like the change going to the Exedra on the back of the Roadster and a smaller profile tire on the front- BIG difference. I've also noticed that slow speed maneuvers are easier too- you don't get that feeling of jack-knifing when turning really tight and on the twisties..... oh, yeah!