Lower Deflectors

It's glue time.......anyone have a spare bag?

HeR3tic said:

Ok Flip, gaudy isn't the word for it This is a family friendly thread right...I'll leave it at gaudy. Had the designers, et al, given a tad bit of consideration for the amount of chrome being covered up with rubber grommet surrounds, you call 'em as you see 'em, they might have saved "developement" overhead. A 1/16" (25.4 mm) wafer of rubber or cork affixed to the unseen underside of the fixing brackets would have spared us the nouveau rubber look.

Keeping in mind the effects (dscoloration) of various polishes/waxes on rubber components, gaudy is a nice word for 'em.

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Actually, I agree, with reservations. I considered this and at some point in time will probably retrofit............

Take a sheet of black rubber or an old inner tube (preferrably a truck innertube) and a sharp knife (xacto or box cutter) and cut strips of rubber the width of the mounting clamps. Coat the underside of the calmps with HH-66 Vinyl cement or a good contact adhesive and let it tack up. Apply the rubber strips and bolt up. I would imagine that the shouldered rubber gaskets (for lack of a better word) are a production issue. That extruded shape is a stock extrusion that can be purchased in rolls and cut to length quickly and a a minimal cost, whereas fixing rubber strips to the back of the clamps involves more labor and consequently cost.

HH-66 vynil contact cement is available at most marine stores or tarp shops. It's wicked. Don't breathe the fumes. It's got all the good stuff in it that airplane glue used to have before law enforcement agencies realized kids were squeezing it in paper bags and getting stoned.

Plus and Minus

There is a significant decrease in helmet buffetting. I call it +80% and that's great! No more constant teeth chatter.

But there are a few issues: 1a. increased Engine heat; significant decrease in airflow along sides of engine (longitudinally). 1b. increased frequency and longer periods with radiator fan running 1c. Oil temperature increase (20F, approx.) 2. airflow through adaption holes for turn signals produces annoying whistle. This may be altered by repositioning Lowers forward of the lens. At present my turn signal lenses protrude through the holes. 3. There is a huge increase in audible engine noise at highway speeds. The sound waves are negatively effected by a lack of longitudinal air flow. For some, that could be a good thing. These latter two issues were recently realized upon switching from a full-face helmet to a half helmet.

Perhaps by adding a Baker type delfector onto the forward "tip-over" bars will resolve all but the whistle; by scooping the airflow and redirecting it back alongside of the engine I'll try a couple pieces of cardboard ) to test the concept.

HeR3tic said:

There is a significant decrease in helmet buffetting. I call it +80% and that's great! No more constant teeth chatter.

But there are a few issues: 1a. increased Engine heat; significant decrease in airflow along sides of engine (longitudinally). 1b. increased frequency and longer periods with radiator fan running 1c. Oil temperature increase (20F, approx.) 2. airflow through adaption holes for turn signals produces annoying whistle. This may be altered by repositioning Lowers forward of the lens. At present my turn signal lenses protrude through the holes. 3. There is a huge increase in audible engine noise at highway speeds. The sound waves are negatively effected by a lack of longitudinal air flow. For some, that could be a good thing. These latter two issues were recently realized upon switching from a full-face helmet to a half helmet.

Perhaps by adding a Baker type delfector onto the forward "tip-over" bars will resolve all but the whistle; by scooping the airflow and redirecting it back alongside of the engine I'll try a couple pieces of cardboard ) to test the concept.

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HeR3tic,
I wear ear plugs and full face shield so i didn't pick up any noises that stood out. Very interesting observations though.
So are the Lowers keepers?,....or too soon to tell?

Oil Temperature

Hondax said:

HeR3tic,
I wear ear plugs and full face shield so i didn't pick up any noises that stood out. Very interesting observations though.
So are the Lowers keepers?,....or too soon to tell?

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I'd rather have the engine noise over the teeth chattering. The engine temp issue is quite concerning; I feel that I've got to resolve it or loose the Lowers.

Anyone have a number(s) for an acceptable oil temperature range??

Anyone install a oil pressure gage??

I can't hear anything over my TOR's.

With a full Clearview shield but without the Triumph lower deflectors, the air seemed to be channeled up, either by the radiator or tank or both, to my shoulders and head. With the deflectors, the air is redirected to my shins, which are at about the same level as the exhaust manifold. I don't feel it running hotter and I don't see why it should run significantly hotter since most of the cooling comes from the radiator, which isn't blocked, and because the air seems to be directed downwards towards the engine rather than at my head.

HeR3tic said:

I'd rather have the engine noise over the teeth chattering. The engine temp issue is quite concerning; I feel that I've got to resolve it or loose the Lowers.

Anyone have a number(s) for an acceptable oil temperature range??

Anyone install a oil pressure gage??

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Wait a second here. Unless I'm reading your previous post wrong, you are the one telling us that the temperature is up 20 degrees (refer to post number 22) but is that a seat-of-the-pants observation or did you actually scan/shoot the engine with an infrared thermometer. What's it gonna be? If, indeed you have the New R3 oil tank analog gage or the electronic counterpart, neither gage is going to give you an accurate temperature of the engine itself because the probe isn't in the crankcase but rather in a remote area. All the gage will do is give you a rough indication of your oil temperature and 20 degrees is pretty fine over a usable temperature range of 250 degrees.

I agree with Dougl. The engine is water cooled by airflow passing through the radiator. There is a small amount of convection cooling of the block itself, but not much at all. I too, have the lowers and they make a big difference in the air flow, turbulence around your upper body and my turn signal cutout/holes don't whistle at any speed (including 155). My signals stick through the holes too as the wings are angled back.

The Baker wing ding wings list for more than the Triumph counterparts. and aren't brand specific. In my opinion, short of making your own one off's, the OEM wings are the best buy.

I might add that an oil pressure gage is only a benchmark indicator too. You are running (presumably) a multi grade, full synthetic oil that will chemically hold it's viscosity index over a wide variation of temperature. An oil gage other than alerting you of impending catastropic failure (providing you are looking at it at the time) is a bit of bling that's not necessary. The idiot light will suffice. If both of your oil pumps go south at the same time (highly unlikely), you'll have immediate failure, gage or no gage, light or no light.

Sidecar Flip said:

155

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155? With my full screen, lower deflectors, side panniers, and top trunk, I can't imagine that. My mirror folded in the other day at 110.

Sidecar Flip said:

Wait a second here. Unless I'm reading your previous post wrong, you are the one telling us that the temperature is up 20 degrees (refer to post number 22) but is that a seat-of-the-pants observation or did you actually scan/shoot the engine with an infrared thermometer. What's it gonna be? If, indeed you have the New R3 oil tank analog gage or the electronic counterpart, neither gage is going to give you an accurate temperature of the engine itself because the probe isn't in the crankcase but rather in a remote area. All the gage will do is give you a rough indication of your oil temperature and 20 degrees is pretty fine over a usable temperature range of 250 degrees.

I agree with Dougl. The engine is water cooled by airflow passing through the radiator. There is a small amount of convection cooling of the block itself, but not much at all. I too, have the lowers and they make a big difference in the air flow, turbulence around your upper body and my turn signal cutout/holes don't whistle at any speed (including 155). My signals stick through the holes too as the wings are angled back.

The Baker wing ding wings list for more than the Triumph counterparts. and aren't brand specific. In my opinion, short of making your own one off's, the OEM wings are the best buy.

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The 20F degrees is observed on an analog oil tank gage. I broke the first two rectal thermometer. But isn't 20F a substantial increase? Granted the average ambient air (seasonal change) is on the rise, but not yet 20F. Shirley a 20 degree oil temperature increase signifies an equal amount or substantially highter crank case temp. increase??? Is that convectiion or conductive cooling Without a doubt one or the other contributes towards some degree of overall engine cooling. The fact is, the radiator fans is on more regularly since Lowers were installed.

The whistle is not constant but when occurring it can be confirmed by blocking the wind flow, at urban survival speeds of 45-70. I've not grown up enough to get 'er up to 155.

You're certainly right about the Baker deflectors and their cost. I'm brain storming about custom making a pair. I doubt they'll be lexan. JackandCoke: You have any nifty ideas. I've got to have one of those "Spike" beercooler vein drains.

HeR3tic said:

The 20F degrees is observed on an analog oil tank gage. I broke the first two rectal thermometer. But isn't 20F a substantial increase? Granted the average ambient air (seasonal change) is on the rise, but not yet 20F. Shirley a 20 degree oil temperature increase signifies an equal amount or substantially highter crank case temp. increase??? Is that convectiion or conductive cooling Without a doubt one or the other contributes towards some degree of overall engine cooling. The fact is, the radiator fans is on more regularly since Lowers were installed.

The whistle is not constant but when occurring it can be confirmed by blocking the wind flow, at urban survival speeds of 45-70. I've not grown up enough to get 'er up to 155.

You're certainly right about the Baker deflectors and their cost. I'm brain storming about custom making a pair. I doubt they'll be lexan. JackandCoke: You have any nifty ideas. I've got to have one of those "Spike" beercooler vein drains.

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I sure don't want to sound anally retentive but a rectal thermometer, I hope it was alcohol swabbed first.

I'd venture to say that because the engine is artifically cooled (not ambient air cooled), more frequent cycling of the radiator fan is the sensors way of maintaining a steady, efficient temperature (along with the thermostat). If the fan was on continuously or the coolant overflowed the purge tank, then that would be a problem. That's why Triumph recommends a full synthetic oil. Full synthetic oils have a better ability to maintain film thickness (so you don't transfer the babitt from the bearing shell to the crankshaft) at elevated temperatures and extreme operating conditions. You ain't paying 40 bucks a gallon for nuth'in. To quantify a true 20 degree increase in oil temperature you'd have to first establish a baseline value and of course the trusty shop manual lists no recomended value (glad I have it on CD and hard copy). You'd have to check the temperature at room temperature (engine cold) and at operating temperature under different operating conditions and most likely the rectal thermometer would be more accurate than the analog or digital counterpart that's integral with the dipstick. Having recently dealt with an engine in a Neon SRT4-ACX, I believe that the R3 engine is in a very mild state of tune, not at all stressed and has a static compression ratio about on par with my Briggs and Stratton lawnmower. High compression and large amounts of fuel breeds heat. You have neither present. Ride the sucker and enjoy it.

As far as 155, Piggr told me I don't have the stock tune, but what do I know. I didn't even know that R3's delivered to dealers have no tune installed, that the dealer installs the tune. I guess my dealer knew I have a lead foot (or is it lead wrist)? I had to embarass a V-Rod on the expressway last fall. I just kept it screwed down for about 6 miles. I had to get off at the next exit, I wet my drawers. I'll tell you for sure, it's hard to see the speedo at that speed even with a windshield. I never bother with potato bikes but the V-Rod is a different story. It actually has some capability to run 3 digits.