looks like oil?

warp9.9 said:
I would check the final drive first even pull it as it is easy. Plus you can lubricate the splines and inspect everything there. If you can pull the rear wheel you can pull the final drive out.
Click to expand...


Speaking of bevel boxes..WHAT THE HADES is the hex size on the Fill plug...Doing some insomnia wrenching and my Toolkit is missing and I have searched high and low on forum for the mm size?

It looks much larger than my pathetic set that stops at 8mm....

Ah...back to bed....At least I did not snap off the dreaded drain plug!

Thanks guys!

Cheers...Greg
 
I will check after light this morning and let you know
 
warp9.9 said:
I will check after light this morning and let you know
Click to expand...


Thanks Warp!

You are "Narionwide" on this site! Whats with Triumph changing from M1 on the Oil/final drive to Castrol on their service notes? Too many smart guys on here and I read an oil thread that made me realize that I should have got the 10W50 instead of the 10W40 Castrol 4T as it gets hot as hades in SC...My CBR, RC51 and R1 Blackbird did not call for xW50 in the summer and the redline was double that of the I3 in the Triumph. Read so much not sure if it is detrimental (10W40) or just preferred. Anywho the final drive oil looks great, as compared to the "labrea tar" that came from the engine. Bottom line is Triumph should just spec x(10 or 15)W50 for both climates.

I just get too OCD with all these threads from really mechanically inclined folks that know the bike and say go grab a quart of 20W-50 from the truck repair depot and tap into the 55 gallon drum

At least with the final drive its M1 or Castrol Syntrax 75/90.

Anywho...thanks amigo and I will get out of my Uber Engeering mode and remember.


It is just a bike!

Have a fantastic day!

Cheers...Greg
 

First The oil fill plug on the bevel box is a 10 mm and its torque is 60 NM. The Drain Plug has a different MUCH LOWER TORQUE 15NM. I highlighted this because to many times people miss this and snap the drain bolt off or fracture it so it breaks the next time they change oil. The Older Rockets Like your and all three of mine call for both oils and Mobile 1. That being said I used the Mobile 1 15W50 for thousands of miles with no problems. I think the switch to Castrol was a Sponsorship type thing.
Now I use a different oil in mine but my cam package is different. That being said I have heard great things about Motul 300V 15W50 and the AMS oil 20W50. Just this last change I am trying the Red Line 20W50 Motorcycle oil which was recommended to me by Mega Cycle Cams. So far I like it very much everything just seemed slicker when I changed it. Let's see how long that hold out.

As for rear lube I have not tried the Castrol yet but only because it takes a while to go thru a bottle of the Mobile 1 In fact I last year I just started changing it every time I do the engine just to use what I have up
 
Thanks Warp....

I got the drain out easy.....I had read it might be sacrificial so I was UBER CAREFUL

Thanks for the 10mm info..I have mine sprayed with Silkroil to soak in as I have heard stories of folks really having problems getting the fill bolt out being a 60Nm plug. I have the dimple mfg front and rear sump mag sump plugs coming in today as whoever tightened the sump plugs torqued the OEMS so hard they have alot of play and burrs on the flange...

The dealer to which I am taking the bike in to swap out the bald metzelers with 240/55/16 E-max Rear and a 140/75VR17 Michelin commander II read me the riot act of putting a bias tire on front.

He really got smoked when I told him thats not a problem with me and I'd rather have a stiffer sidewall Bias in front on all my bikes.

So he begrudgingly will put the Tires on, grease the splines and swap in the EBC Double H sintered pads.

I will see if I can return this 10/40 for some 10/50 4T...If I would have not read so much I would of ended up putting Rotella T6 in but the cost diff was not that much.

Closing thoughts...Funny how these dealers get all revved up when you learn something from guys that ride these daily and live for the Rocket; while they wrench on them occasionally.

Thanks again Warp!

Cheers...Greg

PS....What's the labor time on a plug swap...I have new NGKs from flip and thinking of having them swap them out with the fuel filter....Either a Mann, Wahle or a Wix(I wish I knew who makes the Triumph...as he is gonna flip if I bring a 5 dollar wix filter in or a 20 dollar Mann.
 
I did not realize the Commander two was not a steal belted radial. as the charts reads on their site it is. In fact it is tubeless only along with the 120 ZR rated one they have. Plugs depend on whether you have triple filters on her or not. If you do it might take you about a half an hour or so. longer if you have all the air ducting crap to remove.
I would not use Rotella T6 or any other Rotella oil for anything except starting the burn pile
 
warp9.9 said:
I would not use Rotella T6 or any other Rotella oil for anything except starting the burn pile
Click to expand...
+1 on the Rotella. I tried it and found it was relatively cheap and worked well but seemed to break down quickly in the Rocket. Not cheap if you have to change it early! After about 5,000kms the engine was noticeably rattley and louder. Unfortunately it was on a long trip and I changed to Amsoil as soon as I got home.
 


Warp..you were right! It is a radial in the V rated 140. Many of the other are Bias. As far the plugs....I have the single filter under the seat-so I am airducted.


Thanks so much and the plugs need to be changed and I don;t have the labor hour manual-but if the have the tank off they might as well change the gas filter.

Warp..which filter is most like the Triumph....the Mann or the Wahle?

Thanks so much and again...you were right on that radial front tire........



Greg
 
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