just my 2 cents
i would try to measure those clearances because if you know that most of them are at the high side of the clearance then you are probably good for 30,000 miles on the other hand if some are close to the minimum clearance then you would be good to correct them .
just for the record i have about 70,000 on mi
just my 2 cents
i would try to measure those clearances because if you know that most of them are at the high side of the clearance then you are probably good for 30,000 miles on the other hand if some are close to the minimum clearance then you would be good to correct them .
just for the record i have about 70,000 on mine
You don't need a lift to turn the rear wheel to turn the crank. The 2.5 inch round cover on the front engine cove is the port to turn the crank. Doing it this way gives you a lot more feel and accuracy. You can also see the timing marks. It also make the job a lot easier if you remove 1 sparkplug per cylinder.
Oh wow, I had no idea that's fantastic. Thanks, I'm assuming pulling the plugs to take compression out of the equation? I don't have a manual yet there pretty expensive, well the paper copys are at least, so I'm not sure what way to turn that? Clockwise? And from the looks I remove that cap and it gives access to the nut so I can turn it? And should I be expecting oil to come flowing out when I open that cap? That is the one your speaking of right?
So today I'm gonna grab some 600 grit wet dry sand paper and I'm gonna carefully sand that powder coating off, I'm going to glue that 600 down to the granite surface plate here at work with some spray adhesive and work that crap off, I may even jump to 1000 grit to finish it off.
You can use double sided tape as well and some emery cloth if the sand paper is not strong enough. I have used double sided tape many times when machining a surface flat. Also you can place the cover on the granite and use a feeler around it to see if it has gaps and by how much if it does. Scotch bright may remove the coating on the mounting surface.
You can use double sided tape as well and some emery cloth if the sand paper is not strong enough. I have used double sided tape many times when machining a surface flat. Also you can place the cover on the granite and use a feeler around it to see if it has gaps and by how much if it does. Scotch bright may remove the coating on the mounting surfacebefore I even started I set it on the
You can use double sided tape as well and some emery cloth if the sand paper is not strong enough. I have used double sided tape many times when machining a surface flat. Also you can place the cover on the granite and use a feeler around it to see if it has gaps and by how much if it does. Scotch bright may remove the coating on the mounting surface.
Before I started sanding I put it on the surface plate and that thing had a pretty bad teeter... I press on the left cam side the edge that would be closest to the coolant reservoir and it would lift quite a bit ... I should have stuck a feeler under it to see how much but I wasn't thinking about it not that it would have mattered anyways, but after sanding and getting it to sit flat again the only spot found with a gap was on the same side the teeter was on but it was between the center bolt and the 2 ends... .007 thousandth of an inch, and I managed to get pretty much all the paint of and what was left was so smooth I don't think it will mess with the gaskets ability to seal right, at least I hope not ...
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