Just Installed A Tachometer On My R3T

[Joesmoe]

Hmmm, care to provide a description of that ?

I see that the OBDII connection only has four wires.

I'd like to move the GiPRO like yours (I don't have the ATRE version) and free up the OBDII connector.

 

[TerryBlakeslee]

Hmmm, care to provide a description of that ?

I see that the OBDII connection only has four wires.

I'd like to move the GiPRO like yours (I don't have the ATRE version) and free up the OBDII connector.[/QUOTE

Here is the set up sheet I used, Hope it helps.

https://healtech-electronics.com/docs/GIpro-T0x_Install_Guide_en.pdf

GIpro T01/T02 Installation Instructions for Triumph Rocket III (2004-2015) Disclaimer: Do not attempt to install the parts if you don’t have basic mechanical skills. HealTech Electronics Ltd. and its distributors shall not be liable for any loss or damage caused by improper installation. 1. Make sure the ignition key is in OFF position. 2. Remove the small cover on the left hand side of the engine (held by two torx screws). 3. Locate the GPS (Gear Position Sensor) coupler. Î Standard model: 2-pole black connector Î Touring/Roadster: 3-pole black connector 4. Press the lock tab and pull the GPS coupler apart. You may need a small flat head screwdriver to get the coupler apart. Put the bike in Neutral and turn the ignition ON. Wait a few seconds. The Neutral indicator should NOT be lit with disconnected GPS coupler. After confirming this, turn the ignition OFF and proceed to the next step. 5. Hold the smaller plug with the pins facing you and locking latch on top. Raise the plastic lock pin above the Black/Pink (Black wire with thin Pink stripe) metal contact with a small flat head screwdriver. Pull out the wire gently from the back. 6. Hold the larger plug with the pins facing you and locking latch on top. Raise the plastic lock pin above the Black (Standard model) / Pink or Black/Pink (Touring and Roadster models) metal contact with a small flat head screwdriver. Pull out the wire gently from the back. - 2 - 7. Reconnect the GPS coupler which is now missing one wire connection. Put the bike in Neutral and turn the ignition ON. Wait a few seconds. The Neutral indicator should be lit. After confirming this, turn the ignition OFF and proceed to the next step 8. Insert the Black/Pink lead into the smaller 2-pole plug (supplied) through the back until it clicks into place. black (pre-installed) black w/ pink stripe 9. Insert the Black (Standard model) / Pink or Black/Pink (Touring and Roadster models) lead into the larger 2- pole plug (supplied) through the back until it clicks into place. red (pre-installed) black or pink 10. Connect the long Black GIpro wire to chassis ground or to the negative terminal of the battery (tighten underneath the metal screw). 11. Spend some time to determine the best mounting location around the instrument panel. Move the handle bars lock-to-lock to make sure steering won’t be restricted by the unit or its harness. 12. Clean the mounting surface with a soft cloth then mount the unit with the supplied 2-sided Velcro strips. - 3 - 13. Route the harness neatly to the location of the GPS coupler making sure the harness does not interfere with steering and there is no excessive bending of the harness in any steering position. 14. Connect the 2-pole GIpro harness connectors to the 2-pole plug adapters installed. Make sure that none of the metal pins have been pushed out of position. 15. Connect the GIpro Red wire to a switched +12V wire, e.g. at the fuse box. Use the Red wire tap connector supplied (do not strip the wires when using this connector). If you can't find a switched power, connect the Red wire directly to the battery positive terminal (however, in this case, disconnect the wire if you don’t intend to ride the bike for over 3 weeks, otherwise the battery may lose charge). 16. To minimize cable stress due to vibrations, use the supplied cable ties to fasten the connectors and harness to the bike’s wiring harness. Do not allow direct contact between the engine (cylinder block) and the harness. 17. Turn the ignition ON and have the engine stop switch in RUN position. The display should indicate the gear selected. If the display does not come on, check the connections. 18. Take a test ride. If the indicated gears are always correct, you are done. Otherwise, proceed to section 5.3 of the User’s Guide: Starting the Auto-Learning procedure

 

[Pekka]

I know some of you R3T owners have talked about putting a tachometer on your bike. I've been looking and decided on the Koso BA035103 in chrome...It also comes in black. I spent most of the afternoon working on it, but I'm fussy. I used a Kuryakyn P-Clamp to get it mounted where I wanted it. I tied it into my center coil as it was the easiest to get to. A couple of adjustments and it seems to works fine from the get go. I'm posting this video. As you can see I didn't get it done till after dark. I'll post a few more shots tomorrow in the daylight after I get all the wires neatly dressed and everything buttoned up.

Well, I guess I can't post a video of it in action...I guess a picture or two will have to do for now.

[Add by @Joesmoe - with permission]

The tachometer has four wires, three in one group and one separate. The three 22ga wires are power-switched; power-unswitched, and ground. There is a long single wire, and this is for the pulse. I tied the switched wire into the position light that was in the headlight shell before the LED conversion. I ran a new wire for unswitched back to the auxiliary distribution panel under the seat between the rear fender and battery. The tachometer default count setting is one cylinder, and this is what works on the Rocket. Physically, the tachometer has two small buttons on the bottom, and if one looks closely with good eyes or a magnifying glass, one can see labels "SELECT" (left) and "ADJUST" (right). Having hooked up the sense wire (long blue) using the supplied pigtail (they call it "RPM Wire (Type B)") to the middle coil as described above, must be changed to "Lo". So there are three settings available on the tachometer, in this order: 1) Number of pistons; 2) Hi-Lo sense; 3) backlight brightness setting.
To enter the set mode, with power on the tachometer, push both buttons and hold for three seconds, and you will see the hand of the tachometer move to 500. This is the default setting of one spark for each two revolutions of the engine, and what works on the Rocket Touring. So leave that as is, and press the "SELECT" button once to change to the sense setting. Press the "ADJUST" button once. This should change from the default "Hi" to "Lo". You're done with settings, so push and hold the "SELECT" button to put the tachometer back into the operating mode.

If for some reason, the tachometer is still not reading, repeat the steps above.

Hi and thanks for the Installation instruction.

Just to be on safe side, on the coil there is 1 red and 1 green wire I suppose the red is the positive one?

 

[DEcosse]

... I'd like to move the GiPRO like yours (I don't have the ATRE version) and free up the OBDII connector.

The version that connects to the Diagnostic connector must be used there - cannot be wired like the ATRE version which is looking directly at the GPS.
So you would need to change it completely for the ATRE version

Just to be on safe side, on the coil there is 1 red and 1 green wire I suppose the red is the positive one?

Red is the power supply - you want the green one, which is the switching signal.
See the notes in posts # 1 & #4 regarding setting the signal configuration

 

[Pekka]

The version that connects to the Diagnostic connector must be used there - cannot be wired like the ATRE version which is looking directly at the GPS.
So you would need to change it completely for the ATRE version



Red is the power supply - you want the green one, which is the switching signal.
See the notes in posts # 1 & #4 regarding setting the signal configuration

Thank you

 

[Pekka]

Works on first attempt

 

[Mike]

Well, you guys convinced me and I ordered a KOSO tach and clamp from Amazon. It has arrived and looks good, now I just need a day over 35 or so to do the install. I hate trying to work with heat shrink and soldering irons when it is cold, bad enough that the fingers are stiff. I will like the tach, hated the lack of one after the 05 Classic. Thanks for a good install article, it should go well.

 

[Mike]

OK, I have today installed the tach, it did work right away, but I am not certain it is working correctly. Very obvious delay in the readings, 1/2 sec lag or so, does not seem to want to advance above 2-2.5K and idle shows at 300. I did the adjustments, in select mode the needle went to 1 and I did not see any movement when pressing the adjustment button.
So does this sound like what you guys experienced or am I missing something?
Thanks

 

[Bedifferent]

OK, I have today installed the tach, it did work right away, but I am not certain it is working correctly. Very obvious delay in the readings, 1/2 sec lag or so, does not seem to want to advance above 2-2.5K and idle shows at 300. I did the adjustments, in select mode the needle went to 1 and I did not see any movement when pressing the adjustment button.
So does this sound like what you guys experienced or am I missing something?
Thanks

Read the setup instructions several times. Having it set right can be tricky as you can tell by all the back and forth in the post. Do your setup again and don't give up. We know it works so your going to be good with no time and money wasted

It sounds like you are missing something in the number of cylinder settings. There are a lot of choices there to toggle through. If you are getting a reading of some type then the high/low side polarity setting should be correct. As I recall, you get nothing if you have that set wrong. There should be no time delay in your reading response. The needle should indicate near 1K at idle when the number of cylinders are set correctly. If you see that, blip the throttle and you should see correct response from the tach. I sure @Joesmoe will chime in soon as well and help you get going. Unfortunately, I'm a hands on guy and have never been worth a crap as a help desk.

Remember, the first setting you will get into is the number of cylinders setting and there are 6 choices. You need to find the right one by cycling through those choices.

 

[Joesmoe]

@Mike I encourage you to go back and read the first post in this thread, on which @Bedifferent and I collaborated.

I did the best with that description my 35 years in the Air Force writing and review flight and mechanic manuals for various aircraft gave me.

Still, it's meaningless if in your eyes, the description doesn't compute.

Please have the instructions from the box, and print if you can the write-up from the first post, and go through it again, and if you finally get it, and do so because there is a step missing where you had to take a leap, please let me know, so we can make the description better.

Please keep us informed.

Good luck.