Just Installed A Tachometer On My R3T

"FYI...One other thing...The tach "must" be hooked directly to the batteries pos/neg connections before power is applied to the power wire that triggers the tach on."

That part is clearly stated in the instructions:
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Yes it is..and that is how I did mine. When I installed my PDM60 it created enough of a delay (A few milliseconds) which created some problems with my tach. Reverting back to my original setup fixed my problem. The reason I even mentioned it was.... for those that might think they can pull the "main power" from an ignition switch source...Don't!
 
One more thing I would like to mention.

Occasionally the needle on the tach will jump maybe 200 RPM for just a "fraction" of a second as you travel down the road. I can only attribute this to either a glitch trigger from the ignition coil or since the tach uses a servo motor it may be a little self correction taking place within the tach itself.

This is not a issue and there is nothing wrong with the tach. It is infrequent and you may not ever notice it. It has been seen by at least one others and should be mention.

Again...It is nothing more than a small infrequent blip. The tach works just fine.
 
One more thing I would like to mention.

Occasionally the needle on the tach will jump maybe 200 RPM for just a "fraction" of a second as you travel down the road. I can only attribute this to either a glitch trigger from the ignition coil or since the tach uses a servo motor it may be a little self correction taking place within the tach itself.

This is not a issue and there is nothing wrong with the tach. It is infrequent and you may not ever notice it. It has been seen by at least one others and should be mention.

Again...It is nothing more than a small infrequent blip. The tach works just fine.

Oh I notice it alright. No, it doesn't affect the utility of the tach for me, but it definitely is a glitch.
 
I get the little blip, too. Not worried since it happens on others.
I did run my positive wire through a fuse block with no problems, but it is just a straight through block with a fuse in between; not "managed" like the PDM60 I presume.
 
Installed my Koso TNT-01R tachometer yesterday. It could not have been easier due to the information in this thread. I will be replacing the clamp which holds the tach to the handle bars with a Kuryakyn "P" clamp. I wanted to see what it looked like before making the decision. It holds the tach in place, but it allows more movement than I like.

Be aware of something. I ordered the TNT-01R Tachometer Black Face/Black Casing- Metric Motor, BA035113. I received the T & T Tachometer 8,000 RPM, Black Panel for Harley Davidson, BA035112.

In emailing them, they assured me these were exactly the same tachometer. I was told they had a labeling problem. I don't know if it was a labeling problem or if they just put the Harley name on the same tach to keep the Harley people happy. Either way it works well.
 
Installed my Koso TNT-01R tachometer yesterday. It could not have been easier due to the information in this thread. I will be replacing the clamp which holds the tach to the handle bars with a Kuryakyn "P" clamp. I wanted to see what it looked like before making the decision. It holds the tach in place, but it allows more movement than I like.

Be aware of something. I ordered the TNT-01R Tachometer Black Face/Black Casing- Metric Motor, BA035113. I received the T & T Tachometer 8,000 RPM, Black Panel for Harley Davidson, BA035112.

In emailing them, they assured me these were exactly the same tachometer. I was told they had a labeling problem. I don't know if it was a labeling problem or if they just put the Harley name on the same tach to keep the Harley people happy. Either way it works well.

You will be more than happy with the P Clamp. The full bracket that fastens to the tach is pretty solid but at slow speeds, when powering on the bike, it will transmit a small vibration/shake to the tach. It's a engine vibration issue coming up through the bars rather than a tach mount issue. Otherwise all is good. Enjoy all the efforts of your fellow forum members and their posts. ;)
 
I know some of you R3T owners have talked about putting a tachometer on your bike. I've been looking and decided on the Koso BA035103 in chrome...It also comes in black. I spent most of the afternoon working on it, but I'm fussy. I used a Kuryakyn P-Clamp to get it mounted where I wanted it. I tied it into my center coil as it was the easiest to get to. A couple of adjustments and it seems to works fine from the get go. I'm posting this video. As you can see I didn't get it done till after dark. I'll post a few more shots tomorrow in the daylight after I get all the wires neatly dressed and everything buttoned up.

Well, I guess I can't post a video of it in action...I guess a picture or two will have to do for now.

[Add by @Joesmoe - with permission]

The tachometer has four wires, three in one group and one separate. The three 22ga wires are power-switched; power-unswitched, and ground. There is a long single wire, and this is for the pulse. I tied the switched wire into the position light that was in the headlight shell before the LED conversion. I ran a new wire for unswitched back to the auxiliary distribution panel under the seat between the rear fender and battery. The tachometer default count setting is one cylinder, and this is what works on the Rocket. Physically, the tachometer has two small buttons on the bottom, and if one looks closely with good eyes or a magnifying glass, one can see labels "SELECT" (left) and "ADJUST" (right). Having hooked up the sense wire (long blue) using the supplied pigtail (they call it "RPM Wire (Type B)") to the middle coil as described above, must be changed to "Lo". So there are three settings available on the tachometer, in this order: 1) Number of pistons; 2) Hi-Lo sense; 3) backlight brightness setting.
To enter the set mode, with power on the tachometer, push both buttons and hold for three seconds, and you will see the hand of the tachometer move to 500. This is the default setting of one spark for each two revolutions of the engine, and what works on the Rocket Touring. So leave that as is, and press the "SELECT" button once to change to the sense setting. Press the "ADJUST" button once. This should change from the default "Hi" to "Lo". You're done with settings, so push and hold the "SELECT" button to put the tachometer back into the operating mode.

If for some reason, the tachometer is still not reading, repeat the steps above.

Tach.jpg Tach 2.jpg
Just curious. What is your rpm when you are running 70 mph?
 
Just curious. What is your rpm when you are running 70 mph?

It depends on whether you have corrected the speed of you speedometer speed in the ECU. Stock, the speedometer reads about 3-4 miles faster than you are actually going. At 70 you are doing around 2800 RPM.
 
It depends on whether you have corrected the speed of you speedometer speed in the ECU. Stock, the speedometer reads about 3-4 miles faster than you are actually going. At 70 you are doing around 2800 RPM.
Thanks. As I understand it the R3 makes peak torque at 2500 rpm. It that correct?
 
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