intermittent fuel issues

Ok my cable has come (bought from lonetec) and I have the android tune programme and I'm poised and ready to go but before I do just thought I'd check with you guys what I'm about to do.
My bike is 2007 classic I think, with stock pipes and triple k&n filters. I'll hook the cable up and save the current map to my phone and probably pc too. I've found a tune "20222mapjardinedecel.hex" from tuneecu website and think this is the right one for my bike. I'll load it onto bike, set throttle bodies, check primary and secondary tps then run bike for 12mins from fan kicking in. Does this sound about right? Dont want a lump of metal sat as an ornament on my drive
Thanks in advance frank
 
If you have stock pipes and kn filters you are probably fine with keeping the stock tune. The Jardines tune is not the correct choice as those pipes are way less restrictive than the stock pipes you have. I will wait for experts to chime in and either confirm my thoughts as I am just a tinkerer and still learning lots from this forum. Please do not load a tune until folks way more experienced than myself chime in.
 
If you have stock pipes and kn filters you are probably fine with keeping the stock tune. The Jardines tune is not the correct choice as those pipes are way less restrictive than the stock pipes you have. I will wait for experts to chime in and either confirm my thoughts as I am just a tinkerer and still learning lots from this forum. Please do not load a tune until folks way more experienced than myself chime in.
Thanks, my thoughts exactly however looking at the tune it does mention it's based on the jardine but for the stock pipes
 
Would agree with the above wrt stock map.

Otherwise your plan sounds good, switch on ignition only and have the battery on charger to keep the voltage stable and sufficient, and download the current map to your phone from ECU.
We would like to see it to be sure it is the right one for your bike.

Then you can check primary TPS - this sounds like the most likely cause of your problem. This video might help.


Once TPS / ISCV are good, you can also reset adaptives.
Then disconnect charger and do the 12 min "tune" (start bike from cold, never touching throttle, run for 12 mins AFTER fan cones on) if you like.

When bike is running as above, you can check your throttles are in balance, and let us know what the numbers are.
Generally they just need to be within 10hPa of each other, but if the numbers are too high this will cause over fuelling and stumbling.
Normal numbers are like 560 - 660 kind of range (depends on your altitude and weather etc), for info.

But don't try to rebalance throttles if you're doing 12 min tune. You can do that after, if needed, and the bike will be warmed up then too, which is needed for balancing throttles.
If you do rebalance throttles, you will need to do TPS / ISCV adjustment again.


If problem persists, do what jvheli said wrt checking vac lines to MAP sensor are good, blanks on other nipples are good, and coils' spade connectors are clean and tight.
 
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Would agree with the above wrt stock map.

Otherwise your plan sounds good, switch on ignition only and have the battery on charger to keep the voltage stable and sufficient, and download the current map to your phone from ECU.
We would like to see it to be sure it is the right one for your bike.

Then you can check primary TPS - this sounds like the most likely cause of your problem. This video might help.


Once TPS / ISCV are good, you can also reset adaptives.
Then disconnect charger and do the 12 min "tune" (start bike from cold, never touching throttle, run for 12 mins AFTER fan cones on) if you like.

When bike is running as above, you can check your throttles are in balance, and let us know what the numbers are.
Generally they just need to be within 10hPa of each other, but if the numbers are too high this will cause over fuelling and stumbling.
Normal numbers are like 620 - 660 kind of range (depends on your altitude and weather etc), for info.

But don't try to rebalance throttles if you're doing 12 min tune. You can do that after, if needed, and the bike will be warmed up then too, which is needed for balancing throttles.
If you do rebalance throttles, you will need to do TPS / ISCV adjustment again.


If problem persists, do what jvheli said wrt checking vac lines to MAP sensor are good, blanks on other nipples are good, and coils' spade connectors are clean and tight.
Cool I'll get the current map from the bike this evening and I'll upload it on here and go from there. I read on a post in here that I dont have to use oem pipes for vac lines and can use standard 3mm silicone pipe making sure they are all the same lengths and have some on order just in case. (What does wrt mean, sorry not good with the abbreviations just yet) while I have tank off if I have to go that far, is it worth giving anywhere a squirt with wd40
 
Cool I'll get the current map from the bike this evening and I'll upload it on here and go from there. I read on a post in here that I dont have to use oem pipes for vac lines and can use standard 3mm silicone pipe making sure they are all the same lengths and have some on order just in case. (What does wrt mean, sorry not good with the abbreviations just yet) while I have tank off if I have to go that far, is it worth giving anywhere a squirt with wd40

Sorry wrt is with regard to.

Yeah if your OEM vac tubes are ok I'd leave them alone, but if replacing then using equal internal diameter and equal length - not only as each other, but as the OEMs were - is critical.

The tubing must be vacuum tubing. Don't let someone fool you into buying fuel hose or any silicon tubing which might be designed for peristaltic pumps or something. The tubing has to withstand vacuum, which is different.

Lubing up the springs on the front sides of the throttle bodies and also under the idle stepper's rubber boot has been recommended by a few yes.
 
Sorry wrt is with regard to.

Yeah if your OEM vac tubes are ok I'd leave them alone, but if replacing then using equal internal diameter and equal length - not only as each other, but as the OEMs were - is critical.

The tubing must be vacuum tubing. Don't let someone fool you into buying fuel hose or any silicon tubing which might be designed for peristaltic pumps or something. The tubing has to withstand vacuum, which is different.

Lubing up the springs on the front sides of the throttle bodies and also under the idle stepper's rubber boot has been recommended by a few yes.
Thanks for all you help guys it's really appreciated, seems like not only my love of bikes but also getting to know how to fix stuff is gonna be a new hobby
 
Not sure how to upload file as it says it cannot be a hex file but in any case its map 20222, should I try loading stock map?
 
Dont think it has a cat either unless I'm mistaken and how do i tell which model i have? im guessing its the classic as it has footboards and saddlebags but a massive back tyre
 

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Pics of your exhaust too? Particularly the headers, the silencers and their ends, and any marking on them (could be hard to see, underneath/behind)

Trouble with TuneECU reading the map number, it could be any variant of 20222.
If you can't open the map to view what the map notes are, and even then you are trusting some guy on the internet.

I see 20220 (production silencers. no catalyst) and 20219 (aftermarket silencers. no catalyst) listed as factory maps under TuneECU library for Rocket III Classic.

You can generally depend on the factory maps more than some guy's tinkered version of a map - but the best thing is checking it on a dyno.
 
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