I'm fed up now!

[TOMCAT]

I'd be heading to the nearest Dealer and plugging it into his diagnostic tester-thingo. Trying to second-guess these sorts of problems (electrical) does my head in !!!

 

[honker]

Sorry but the dealers don't know how to fix it either I ran into Randy Baxter owner of Baxter cycle and told him how to fix it and he was delighted to know what to do! They had been having the problem as well

 

[RockyIII]

Unfortunately my nearest Triumph dealer is about 700km away. A while back I thought it might be a bad spot on the starter motor, I had a mecanic open it up and he said it was perfectly clean and fine inside so I forgot about that, but maybe that could be the case, dunno.
It's a real odd one and I'll be taking up the fix that Honker posted when I get the chance and pray that will solve the problem. Thanks Honker for the link.

But I'm quit sure it's something to do with the power to starter etc.
All these problems really put a downer on owning this bike, especially the starting issue in my opinion.

 

[RockyIII]

Honker,

Had a look at your instructions on the paper, it doesn't look difficult but I'm not the best with electrics and wires.

Firstly, is there any particular wire that I need? Or just a long length of normal thin black wire?

Second, is there any particular order I should connect the wires?

Lastly, I have 2 wires coming off my + terminal, a thin wire and a thick one. Which do I tie on to?

Also, how should I tie in the wires and where should I ground?

Sorry if these questions sound silly, but I would like to learn and understand this.

Many thanks for your help.

 

[Mittzy]

Easy, The first thing I would do is find the relay that operates the Starter (The one that clicks) should be behind the right hand side cover, it is the one nearest the seat lock, check with a test pencil the thicker black wire for 12 volts on crank (Hold clutch in with ign ON (Can use a cable tie or some sting to hold clutch lever in) If no voltage Remove it, take it to an automotive parts store and ask for a replacement. Should be a change over relay.





The contacts in the starter sound like they have arced up causing too much resistance therefore not sending enough power to the starter motor to throw the solenoid etc etc.
This may fix your problem and should be a cheap process of elimination at worst.

 

[TheMadScientist]

Hello all I am new to the forum. I have been researching the Rocket. It will be definitely be my next bike. After reading about Rockey's dilemma, I have decided to register. I have not studied the Rockets electrical schematics yet, so some of what I am saying may not be applicable.
I doubt it is a battery problem. When fully charged a sealed lead acid battery should have about 2.2 volts per cell. A 12 volt battery has 6 cells. Also the amount of current drawn is during the few seconds that the bike is started. This is evident by the size of the cable going to starter, it is the largest on the bike. Every time you try to start or under load the voltage will drop.

Basically the path for the voltage to get to the starter is like this. There is a main fuse and may be other sub fuses. From there it goes through the ignition switch to run switch. From there it goes through the start switch which is a normally open switch you press to complete the circuit. From there it makes it's way to the starter relay. I think this is where your problem lies. This starter switch is normally in series with several other safety switches such as neutral position switch, kickstand switch (if available) and sometimes clutch switch. If any one of these switches are not properly engaged it will keep the starter from engaging. It is a safety feature.
Basically all this relay does is send power to the starter solenoid which is basically a magnetic switch capable of handling a lot of power for the starter. You can temporarily bypass this relay. Basically a relay has two potions. A coil side and contact. The coil side gets the voltage from the starter button when pressed. This magnetizes the relay and is the click you here, they are also spring loaded so it returns to starting position after you release the button. The side you are interested in is the contact side that sends current to solenoid. By placing a jumper across the terminals the starter should engage. Please be sure bike is in neutral and remove jumper if bike starts. If this method works you know the starter and solenoid are good. If not it probably is probably one of the safety circuits or the relay itself. Any or all of these circuits can be by passed but would advise against it. The safety circuits are usually two wires that can be easily tested with Digital Multimeter.

A friend of mine recently rode his bike after I diagnosed a bad voltage regulator/rectifier. He melted his ignition coils, blew his headlight, tail lights instrument lights, blew a hole in his CDI igniter and melted a few wires. I was able to diagnose all his problems with a Digital Multimeter and electrical schematics. If I can do it. Any one can. I know you can figure out the problem.




I hope this wasn't to much info. Just trying to be helpful. Don't let this get you down

Best of luck!

 

[TheMadScientist]

After further thought I think it is your neutral safety switch. This is the only thing that I can think of that would be affected by the rocking of your bike. Remember my advice might be worthless , I don't own a rocket yet. There is usually a cam connected to gear shift selector. This cam has different size lobes that engage or disengage the gears. One of these lobes is sized for the neutral safety switch. If this bike is starting in gear with clutch depressed this is the only scenario that makes sense. it may be adjustable?
This is my best guess

 

[TOMCAT]

I reckon we keep TheMadScientist and get rid of DesertTony ...all in favour say aye good onya for offering your knowledge, advice and assistance. Welcome from Australia.

 

[honker]

Your input is surely appreciated! In this particular problem with the rocket however the safety switches are all functioning correctly if they weren't the relay would not be activating. Even though the solenoid is clicking but not fully engaging is the relay isn't receiving full voltage thus it isn't sending full voltage to the solenoid. The teeth on the starter drive have rounded edges to allow it to engage the flywheel even if the teeth are not lined up.however it is engaging so softly from the low voltage that it won't spin into the teeth.as to wiring it doesn't matter what order you do it in. Just be sure to use a inline fuse off of the positive side of the battery. You can use the negative side of your battery for ground. Be sure to solder all your splices. If your are less than confident get a mechanically inclined friend to help. You will be amazed at how
Much crisper the starter will engage!

 

[Mittzy]

Hello all I am new to the forum. I have been researching the Rocket. It will be definitely be my next bike. After reading about Rockey's dilemma, I have decided to register. I have not studied the Rockets electrical schematics yet, so some of what I am saying may not be applicable.
I doubt it is a battery problem. When fully charged a sealed lead acid battery should have about 2.2 volts per cell. A 12 volt battery has 6 cells. Also the amount of current drawn is during the few seconds that the bike is started. This is evident by the size of the cable going to starter, it is the largest on the bike. Every time you try to start or under load the voltage will drop.

Basically the path for the voltage to get to the starter is like this. There is a main fuse and may be other sub fuses. From there it goes through the ignition switch to run switch. From there it goes through the start switch which is a normally open switch you press to complete the circuit. From there it makes it's way to the starter relay. I think this is where your problem lies. This starter switch is normally in series with several other safety switches such as neutral position switch, kickstand switch (if available) and sometimes clutch switch. If any one of these switches are not properly engaged it will keep the starter from engaging. It is a safety feature.
Basically all this relay does is send power to the starter solenoid which is basically a magnetic switch capable of handling a lot of power for the starter. You can temporarily bypass this relay. Basically a relay has two potions. A coil side and contact. The coil side gets the voltage from the starter button when pressed. This magnetizes the relay and is the click you here, they are also spring loaded so it returns to starting position after you release the button. The side you are interested in is the contact side that sends current to solenoid. By placing a jumper across the terminals the starter should engage. Please be sure bike is in neutral and remove jumper if bike starts. If this method works you know the starter and solenoid are good. If not it probably is probably one of the safety circuits or the relay itself. Any or all of these circuits can be by passed but would advise against it. The safety circuits are usually two wires that can be easily tested with Digital Multimeter.

A friend of mine recently rode his bike after I diagnosed a bad voltage regulator/rectifier. He melted his ignition coils, blew his headlight, tail lights instrument lights, blew a hole in his CDI igniter and melted a few wires. I was able to diagnose all his problems with a Digital Multimeter and electrical schematics. If I can do it. Any one can. I know you can figure out the problem.




I hope this wasn't to much info. Just trying to be helpful. Don't let this get you down

Best of luck!

TheMad Scientist is right (Mostly), You cant bridge the solenoid cos you cant get to it! and none of the cabling is exposed (Not like a car on other bikes).
On my previous post in particular the last photo you can see a BLACK wire and opposite a BLUE/WHITE green wire, with the clutch in as previously discussed BRIDGE these two wires with a piece of wire around the same thickness or if your carefull with some pointy nose pliers. Starter should engage.