Idle is over 2700 rpm Help

[Speedy]

First thing to do BEFORE setting TPS voltages, or ISCV, is to make sure the throttle cables are loose! There must be free play in both directions to allow the stepper to move the throttles both more open and more closed while calibrating. No or insufficient free play in the cables prevents correct ISCV operation. Second, do not mess with the hard stop unless you know exactly what you are doing. This screw stops the blades from closing too far and sticking in the throttle bores and is considered the minimum opening. Third, check the TB sync and correct that first. If any one TB reading jumps about more than 20 (620 to 640 or say 600) and the others are more stable you likely have a vacuum hose leak or a leaking intake valve. If all three are jumping around and you have checked and tested hoses, the MAP sensor may be malfunctioning, or the wiring tells the ECU it is, i.e. a short or intermittent break in continuity. Fix these BEFORE setting TPS voltages and subsequent ISCV too.

Another issue with having a steady idle is having a tune with the ignition timing changed around idle rpm. If the timing table has the timing changing more than about 1 degree per 200rpm around your idle rpm (800 to 1300 rpm with a 950 rpm idle setting for example) the ECU can have the stepper "hunt" for a stable rpm, as every time it makes a TB stepper change and the rpm changes the timing changes too. Thus it can take 20-30 seconds for the idle to stabilize. Keep in mind the timing tables are different in neutral than when in gear. So roll to a stop in gear and the idle will stabilize differently than if the tranny is slipped into neutral.

(Foot bone connected to the ankle bone connected to the leg bone, etc.!)

 

[BDClone]

Hey guys been busy with family and honey do's so haven't had time to finish sorting out my issues. I did get it to idle normally but when when I took up the road and back it kept wanting to die when off throttle. So when i get some time i get back to the adjustments and trying to sort it out.
Thank you again to everyone for help and suggestions

 

[RIII Forever]

First thing to do BEFORE setting TPS voltages, or ISCV, is to make sure the throttle cables are loose! There must be free play in both directions to allow the stepper to move the throttles both more open and more closed while calibrating. No or insufficient free play in the cables prevents correct ISCV operation. Second, do not mess with the hard stop unless you know exactly what you are doing. This screw stops the blades from closing too far and sticking in the throttle bores and is considered the minimum opening. Third, check the TB sync and correct that first. If any one TB reading jumps about more than 20 (620 to 640 or say 600) and the others are more stable you likely have a vacuum hose leak or a leaking intake valve. If all three are jumping around and you have checked and tested hoses, the MAP sensor may be malfunctioning, or the wiring tells the ECU it is, i.e. a short or intermittent break in continuity. Fix these BEFORE setting TPS voltages and subsequent ISCV too.

Another issue with having a steady idle is having a tune with the ignition timing changed around idle rpm. If the timing table has the timing changing more than about 1 degree per 200rpm around your idle rpm (800 to 1300 rpm with a 950 rpm idle setting for example) the ECU can have the stepper "hunt" for a stable rpm, as every time it makes a TB stepper change and the rpm changes the timing changes too. Thus it can take 20-30 seconds for the idle to stabilize. Keep in mind the timing tables are different in neutral than when in gear. So roll to a stop in gear and the idle will stabilize differently than if the tranny is slipped into neutral.

(Foot bone connected to the ankle bone connected to the leg bone, etc.!)

how do I loosen the cables in both directions?

 

[Scholle]

Hey guys been busy with family and honey do's so haven't had time to finish sorting out my issues. I did get it to idle normally but when when I took up the road and back it kept wanting to die when off throttle. So when i get some time i get back to the adjustments and trying to sort it out.
Thank you again to everyone for help and suggestions

At both ends of the cables, first opportunity is at the throttle grip right hand and second at the throttle body...
Regards, Georg

how do I loosen the cables in both directions?

At both ends of the two cables, first opportunity is at the throttle grip right hand and second at the throttle body...
Regards, Georg​

 

[RIII Forever]

I loosened those on the handle, however I still have problems, the minimum is 1200 rpm high and it takes a few seconds and accelerator strokes to bring it down to normal values. Tunecu shows me values under the anomalous accelerator field 65486 ..... I turn it off and normalize it to 220 or similar values.

can it be a failure sensor?

 

[warp9.9]

The adjusters on the throttle grip are for fine adjustment. Anything more then that should be adjusted at the throttle body.

 

[Speedy]

@RIII Forever, Have you checked hoses, cables, mechanical linkages, corrected sync of TB if needed, performed ISCV per TuneECU instructions? Have you tried to change the idle speed to say 650 or 1,100rpm via TuneECU to see if the engine idles at that rpm and throttle position?

It is impossible to diagnose after the fact with less than 1/10 of the information available. So asking us if the sensor is defective won't get you a good answer. Follow procedures to set and check, try changing a variable to see if it has an impact, and then deduce what you need to do next. If you don't have the needed skills, ask someone local who does to assist you, or take the bike to a good mechanic. Good luck.

 

[RIII Forever]

@RIII Forever, Have you checked hoses, cables, mechanical linkages, corrected sync of TB if needed, performed ISCV per TuneECU instructions? Have you tried to change the idle speed to say 650 or 1,100rpm via TuneECU to see if the engine idles at that rpm and throttle position?

It is impossible to diagnose after the fact with less than 1/10 of the information available. So asking us if the sensor is defective won't get you a good answer. Follow procedures to set and check, try changing a variable to see if it has an impact, and then deduce what you need to do next. If you don't have the needed skills, ask someone local who does to assist you, or take the bike to a good mechanic. Good luck.

@Speedy thanks for the reply, sorry for the delay

I did a little test, but not to change the minimum and I performed the ISCV reset several times

I noticed through tunecu that while the water temperature rises, the minimum does not come as per the table but always remains high. After maybe 6/7 minutes with a small stroke of gas, the minimum returns to normal

but is 4.13 v right at 100% throttle?

 

[idk]

Just out of curiosity, when the throttle is closed, does TuneECU show throttle as 0%? Zero throttle may need resetting, which can be done only when the cable tension/slack is correct.

 

[TURBO200R4]

i have told myself to stay out of it but here i am.
u have been receiving advice from a lot of guys that know what they r doing
i think that u have it mucked up and i am going to try to explain some of the info u have received.
edited 5/15/20
there should be zero clearance any time ign off or on if there is clearance the throttle shaft/plates r sticking open.
this info below is wrong
#1 with ignition off do u have the (approximate .5mm clearance between the stepper motor rod and the throttle roller?
i am going to assume that u have the clearance and if u do unplug the stepper motor connector. (with ign off)
at this point the throttle plates should be resting against the throttle stop (which should never be touched unless u r a good mechanic)
assuming the throttle plates r on the stop and the stepper motor is disconnected turn on ignition and set primary tps to 0.60 volts. then reconnect the stepper motor and see if it is close to 0.72 volts with ignition on .
if u do this it should run correct if not post the results.