All of this is really great information and have totally answered my questions. I feel confident now that I know what I'm doing and have a base plan. One thing that I can be ready for is to make sure I "hear" the click. And lets say I'm not sure if I heard it, I just let go, and turn slowly again until I hear the click. And the click means that it's at 19Nm, so no matter how many times I hear the click, it won't go over 19Nm, BUT if I keep turning, then yes that equals big problems! I hear the click- I STOP!

I will follow the sequence order, but all in all, I will go SLOW when using the Torque wrench. Nice and slow.

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Thank you all!
And it's only going to click once, so if you think you heard it stop and go again, it will always click once at the setting, if you keep going you will over tighten.
Put it on a steel bolt at low setting like 19nm on from axial bolt, or any big bolt that torque like 100nm and set for 19nm and listen to the click, that's when you stop, if you continue it won't click again and you will over tighten it, don't worry it's easy, you can probably find it on YouTube, you can get a lot of info on YouTube, just Google or Siri it. And something will probably show up, gl
 
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For anyone like me to comes across this topic when searching the forum, could be soon, or years from now, I found this video here, where I think as a beginner best explains how to use a torque wrench.

 
Most 'break-over' torque wrenches will not only "click" but you'll feel the wrench break free when the torque reaches the setting. It will 'pop' like slipping a gear. When you feel it break free that bolt/nut is done, move on to the next. If you use a bar style torque wrench with a scale indicator you visually see the torque applied.

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Got my Paul Viking exhaust coated headers from jet hot back.

Guys I’ve hit a snag.

It was difficult to get out and now it’s even more difficult to get the crossover pipe into the header. I can’t get it to fit, and what’s worse is that I bent the side trying to get it, but hopefully the bolt will solve that.

A friend said I have to get a blow touch or something? Honestly if I knew I never would have upgraded this ****ing bike. Should have left it.

Any ideas, any help would be great.
 

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Got my Paul Viking exhaust coated headers from jet hot back.

Guys I’ve hit a snag and I’m this close to just completely giving up.

It was a ***** to get out and now it’s even more of a ****ing ***** to get the crossover pipe into the header. I can’t get it to fit, and what’s worse is that I bent the side trying to get it, but hopefully the bolt will solve that.

A friend said I have to get a blow touch or something? Honestly if I knew I never would have upgraded this ****ing bike. Should have left it.

Any ideas, any help would be great.

If I completely ****ed up just let me know. I’ll just reinstall my original headers, and cut my ****ing losses
Try Emery cloth sand paper the inside pipe, I'm thinking the header, and take some pliers and expand the outside pipe, I'm guessing the crossover pipe, but don't squeeze it and put it out of round, maybe even an adjustable wrench and Open it up just a little till you can get it in, then you can brace the header and put a wood block over the crossover end and carefully hit it with a hammer. It's a tight fit, GL
 
I would say take it to a muffler place and have them expand it a little.
 
I was told by Paul to just sand the out outside of the header at the tip where it connects to the cross over pipe. And I happen to have an electric sand paper machine.

As for the bent cross over pipe, I just bend it back into place and the screw bolt should take care of the rest.
 
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