Tall Rider
.040 Over
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2020
- Messages
- 100
Hi RMR, and welcome.
Hope your problem is fixed quickly.
Greetz from Rotterdam, Holland.
Hope your problem is fixed quickly.
Greetz from Rotterdam, Holland.
Hello! New to the forum - looking for R3 advice
- Thread starter RideMyRocket
- Start date
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- Tags
- r3
ant
Turbocharged
Hello and welcome from the UK..
RideMyRocket
Two Wheel Perma Grin
Thanks! I'm dying to ride today, but don't want to die riding. Is it safe to ride short distances? Can't even notice it once I'm in 2nd gear or higher.
KDog Bone
.040 Over
At first if thought I had picked up a small stone in the rim somehow and that was causing the noise so I definitely did some miles with it before i got it addressed, but i don't want to be the cause of any issues for you. Better safe than sorry.
RideMyRocket
Two Wheel Perma Grin
If it were 4 wheels I would keep driving it, but can never take that risk on only 2 wheels.
Roach
Standard Bore
- Joined
- May 18, 2020
- Messages
- 8
- Ride
- Friends bikes
Hi there,
thanks for saying hi. Did go to Salt Lake City once for work, nice town, a bit cold for an Aussie from Queensland.
RideMyRocket
Two Wheel Perma Grin
Hello! Thanks for taking the time to message. Bike is still awaiting parts, will send a message once we are confirmed rectified!
Gregger
Living Legend
Posted on another thread about replacing my wheel bearings this week and felt it could help some following this thread by adding details here.
I had been running the rear wheel with the axle loosened a lot (around 30 ft/lbs) which I think is too loose but no clicking noise. Pulled the wheel and closely inspected the bearings. Usually the brake rotor side bearing is very hard to turn but now it spins freely when removed from the wheel. I think it was loose because of the reduced axle side load. Remember, the torque required is 81 ft/lbs which puts a lot of side load on the bearing but with a reduced torque it appears fine. I replaced this bearing with a tighter clearance C3 bearing.
I then inspected the cush drive in the hub/wheel. I had to really struggle to pull the hub from the wheel. There was a lot of friction between the rubber and aluminum parts. I needed to clamp vice grips on the hub nuts to pull it and noticed the same noise I get dragging the hub out of the cush drive rubber (dry rubber on metal) as when I'm driving the bike with the noise present. I proceeded to polish the hub and wheel cush drive surfaces with some wire wheels to smooth things up then applied a light layer of dielectric grease to the cush rubber and aluminum. Replaced the rest of the bearings (they all looked good) then inserted the hub into wheel/cush drive. Slid in like a hot knife going through butter. As a side note, I noticed that the center double bearing had spun in the wheel creating a slip fit. I purchased some Loctite 638 compound and inserted the new bearing. I think this happened from having a loose axle nut.
Everything is torqued back to normal and shall see if this finally corrects the dreaded click.... New top quality C3 bearings, lubed cush drive rubber, polished cush drive coupling surfaces, proper clearance between hub and wheel..... don't know what else to check?
I had been running the rear wheel with the axle loosened a lot (around 30 ft/lbs) which I think is too loose but no clicking noise. Pulled the wheel and closely inspected the bearings. Usually the brake rotor side bearing is very hard to turn but now it spins freely when removed from the wheel. I think it was loose because of the reduced axle side load. Remember, the torque required is 81 ft/lbs which puts a lot of side load on the bearing but with a reduced torque it appears fine. I replaced this bearing with a tighter clearance C3 bearing.
I then inspected the cush drive in the hub/wheel. I had to really struggle to pull the hub from the wheel. There was a lot of friction between the rubber and aluminum parts. I needed to clamp vice grips on the hub nuts to pull it and noticed the same noise I get dragging the hub out of the cush drive rubber (dry rubber on metal) as when I'm driving the bike with the noise present. I proceeded to polish the hub and wheel cush drive surfaces with some wire wheels to smooth things up then applied a light layer of dielectric grease to the cush rubber and aluminum. Replaced the rest of the bearings (they all looked good) then inserted the hub into wheel/cush drive. Slid in like a hot knife going through butter. As a side note, I noticed that the center double bearing had spun in the wheel creating a slip fit. I purchased some Loctite 638 compound and inserted the new bearing. I think this happened from having a loose axle nut.
Everything is torqued back to normal and shall see if this finally corrects the dreaded click.... New top quality C3 bearings, lubed cush drive rubber, polished cush drive coupling surfaces, proper clearance between hub and wheel..... don't know what else to check?
Journeyman
"And this one is just right" ~ Goldilocks
Journeyman
"And this one is just right" ~ Goldilocks
Curious if you torqued the axle to spec this time? Interesting about the cush drive rubbers (I'll check those next time) and will try the Natchi C3 bearings. Be sure to let us know how it goes.
I'm sometimes noticing a seemingly random click that's felt in my left foot peg- especially on smooth interstate. Still trying to find a consistent pattern to when it appears. I'm wondering about bearings, brakes, etc., plus I've always had tight bearings on one side, even after replacement.
Someone mentioned shortening the spacer in an older post- was it @Mad Dog ? While looking for that I found another mention here....
www.r3owners.net
I was very careful not to overdrive the last bearings, but when I pulled the wheel the spacer was once again very tight between the two. Our experiments with backing off on the axle torque could be because at spec it's jamming the bearing too tight against the spacer. Just a theory (not mine), but sounds like it might explain some things.
I'm sometimes noticing a seemingly random click that's felt in my left foot peg- especially on smooth interstate. Still trying to find a consistent pattern to when it appears. I'm wondering about bearings, brakes, etc., plus I've always had tight bearings on one side, even after replacement.
Someone mentioned shortening the spacer in an older post- was it @Mad Dog ? While looking for that I found another mention here....
Thought my rear wheel bearings were frozen..
I was taking my rear wheel off last week to clean and inspect the bearings, brakes, etc.. when I stuck my finger in the inner race of my bearings, they would not turn. I saw no wear on the axle shaft, and no signs of damage to the bearings. I decided to buy new bearings, and after heating up the...
www.r3owners.net
I was very careful not to overdrive the last bearings, but when I pulled the wheel the spacer was once again very tight between the two. Our experiments with backing off on the axle torque could be because at spec it's jamming the bearing too tight against the spacer. Just a theory (not mine), but sounds like it might explain some things.
