Full throttle hiccup?

I will bring a extra detent spring along just in case maybe we can fish it in without taking the clutch basket out. if not we will have to find some tools to do the job. Who is close to Montrose?
 
Do you think it's safe to chance it Warp? The only other bike at the moment that has no issues and can be loaded is my 78 CB750K, God bless simple machines, it's never failed me yet, but the tires are old, though the tread is OK. It sucks that dealers don't stock anything, or I'd try changing it before I left. Plus I've never heard anyone describe quite the same symptoms that I have. ****, what poor timing.
 
warp9.9 said:
I will bring a extra detent spring along just in case maybe we can fish it in without taking the clutch basket out. if not we will have to find some tools to do the job. Who is close to Montrose?
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I have a buddy in Cedarcrest not far away. He will be with me when I arrive Sunday afternoon with Rolltide, Idaho Red Rocket, Albertsduke and my bro.
You need a pneumatic wrench, right? What else?
 
I have an impact gun, you need a 30 mm socket, and probably a gasket. I'm considering trailering a couple bikes out. Worst part is my friend Dave scheduled his vacation around this.
 
Well, I considered taking my Cb750, but I'm going to chance the Rocket. If I shift under 3000 rpm, everything is fine, no problems. I guess I'll just have to learn to ride like the old man I am, LOL. I sure wish I was sure it was the detente spring, a known problem is always better than an unknown. I'm guessing it's weak, but not broken? I just can't understand the mechanism by which something could slip momentarily under all that strain/pressure, and grab again, with no grinding, catastrophic failure, etc...
 
Its sounds like it could possible be it but instead of broken maybe the spring has stretched in fact maybe soem of the others that broke stretch first and was not noticed do to mild riding.. My wifey say I can overnight the spring to you for 19.99 depending on you zip code as some mail plnts have been shut down worse case woudl be 2 day. you could change it out in about 4 hours. My bet is since your ha sbeen open you could save the clutch cover gasket eve if it tore you just need to use Hylamar gasket material. Let me knwo your zip code and I will have her look it up in fact PM me your address so I can have her verify it on the USPS.com site. If it was not that expensive I could send you the gasket also.send you the gasket. But the only reason I have two of them is because of Hylamar which you can buy at advance auto parts
 
Boy, that would be great, Warp, I'll replace it for you. Send gasket just in case.I'm sure I could get it in Tuesday.

Chris Keller 395 Lewiston Rd Middleport, NY 14105
 
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Tripps said:
Boy, that would be great, Warp, I'll replace it for you. Send gasket just in case.I'm sure I could get it in Tuesday.

Chris Keller 395 Lewiston Rd Middleport, NY 14105
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It looks like is will be about 29.00 over night and should be there by noon tuesday are you going to be around in case they need a signature or should I have the wifey set it up to just leave it if she can?
I will tape the spring on the inside of the envelope up toward the top where the flap is as it is the thickest part of the envelope.
You should be able to reuse your clutch basket nut just make sure you re-stake it where it was or a wee bit further. It locks the nut in place.
 
That's great, Warp, I really appreciate this. Do you want me to paypal you the shipping, or I can pay you when I see you? No special tools to do this, other than a 30 mm socket, right? It would be better if I don't have to sign, I was planning on working Monday and Tuesday, looks like I will have to be off Tuesday to receive it and do this, but just in case... My buddy is going to do this at his shop with me Tuesday if it comes, if it doesn't get here til Wednesday we might have to meet you guys in Pike's Peak.
 
Its a easy job and the wifey says she can just hve it left with no signature. If the bike is going to be at your buddies shop already I can ship it there isf you want that way he can get right to it. Maybe he can have it torn down already. its a easy job I found on my rocket I can pull the front fender without pulling the wheel not sure if a touring is like that but you can always put a towel on it for when you pull the radiator. The radiator I leave the hose hooked to it and just undo the water pump cover to drain. I also apply hylamar to the O-ring gasket area so I do not have to keep replacing it. Of course drain the oil and either save it if its new or replace it. The only real speciall tool is to lock the clutch bascket when torquing the clutch nut but I just use a impact even though I have the tool and run her down as far as she was before and re-stake the nut I have also took it just a little further when the stake area was damaged on the nut. just a further enough to stake the nut. My be is you clean the nut and the threads you can also use medium strength thread locker in case the stake area looks weak. That way you only go as far as before and rely on both to hold. Remember to bleed the system when refilling and do not forget to plug the fab back in. Its a 4 or 5 hour job but its not hard. If you use needle nose pliers to put the spring on run tape around each nose of the pliers so you do not nick the spring nicks cause failure. I have seen some people use two 50 test fish line to pul it down on the post just so they do not nick or damage the spring wire. Oh and you will Oh Rain man a Beer as he sent me the detent spring when he got rid of his touring

Oh and when installing th eclutch basket you must insure the oil pump drive pins go in the hole in the back of the basket or the basket will not go completely on. You will notice it is not on all the way if the nut looks like it will not go all the way back on when you finger tighten it up first. Its actually easy to get it lined up if you just pay attetion and wiggle the chain when your getting her on. you have to relax the back lash eliminator on the basket by one of two methods in th epicture below at about 4 Oclock you can see a hole right out side the inner you use a pin to take up the tension on the backlash eliminator is make both gears on the outside get in line so it slide in. the only other way is with screw drivers on the gear teeth I call it the stupid Polock way until you realise the proper way




 
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