EXPENSIVE PROBLEM

Is it a hard thing to replace the complete throttle body. Will it require retuning the program or anything like that? How many hours should it take? Does it just unbolt from the cylinder head?


With the factory intake plumbing you will need to lift the tank to get at that first - take off Air intake box - the throttle body assembly is attached to the intake ports on the head to the 3 rubber adapter boots which attach to the t/b's with a band clamp - also throttle cables (good time to lube them) - wiring plugs, ect
It will need to have the TPS set & balance t/b's, reset ISCV, ect
I'm sure I've left something off.........
3 Hours maybe?
 
I hope they know all that you guys know. The parts should be there tomorrow but it will be next week before it gets done. I'm glad I had them do the five hundred mile service, it sounds like if I didn't they may not have warrantied the thing. Would they know about balancing the the TB's and setting the TPS and resetting the ISCV ect if they worked on the other new model Triumphs with TB problems. I just don't think there are many Rockets here in Vegas for them to work on.
 
Would they know about balancing the the TB's and setting the TPS and resetting the ISCV ect if they worked on the other new model Triumphs with TB problems. I just don't think there are many Rockets here in Vegas for them to work on.

I'd play it smart & test them by asking if there were any adjustments or tuning required when fitting a new TB, or is it just bolt on and go... now that you know the answer
 

Even if you done the 500mile service yourself it would have nothing to do with the warranty claim, most people think you have to let the dealer do all the work or you will screw up your warranty False just keep good records and reciepts
 
Even if you done the 500mile service yourself it would have nothing to do with the warranty claim, most people think you have to let the dealer do all the work or you will screw up your warranty False just keep good records and reciepts

That is correct; though if you do it yourself, you are well armed, if you keep your receipts, and initial the spot in your owner's manual for the service period applicable.
 
I was surprised a few hours ago when Freedom Cycle called me and said the bike is ready, I wasn't expecting it till next week. They said the part came yesterday and they fixed it today. They said it took about 3 hours but the factory only pays one and three quarter hours. In any event it didn't cost me a penny.I am passing on what I found on my paperwork to you guys as it might interest some one. It says:
ACTIVE CODES WERE PRESENT AT TIME OF SERVICE
P0638*THROTTLE ACTUATOR CONTROL RANGE
P0505--IDLE SPEED CONTROL CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
P0122--THROTTLE POSITIO SENSOR

AFTER DIAGNOSIS AND PROPER STEPS VIA
MANUFACTURERS MANUAL RECOMMENDATIONS. FINAL
CONCLUSION IS REPLACING THE ENTIRE THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY.

**INSTALLED NEW THROTTLE BODY RESET TPS & ADAPTIONS,

**TEST RODE**
The part were: PART NUMBER T1245100 1 THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY
PART NUMBER T3550128 2 WASHER BANJO M12 X 1.45

I'll test ride it tonight after dark for an hour or two and see how it does. They washed the bike but I picked up on my open trailer and it rained on the way back to the house. Its not raining any more so it should be nice to go around the Lake in a couple of hours.
 
STILL BROKEN!!! I just got back from a 50 mile ride. The light did not come on. Both of the other times that the light came ON before I took it to the dealer I had ridden about 40 or 50 miles and the light was not on. After I shut the bike off and sat for a few minutes and then started it up again to leave the light stayed ON. I decided to do the same thing tonight so after 40 miles with no light showing and the bike running fine I stopped at a gas station and drank a coke which took about ten minutes. I then started the bike to go home and the check engine light never went off, it just stayed ON. Its still on every time I start the bike and probably will still stay ON in the morning. The bike still runs fine, just like the last time I wouldn't even know anything was wrong if it wasn't for the light. I will take it back to them when they open Tuesday. Hopefully this is not one of those problems that seems to be never able to be fixed. With this new information maybe one of the experts on this site will have an idea of what could cause this. We know the Throttle Body assembly is new but maybe something is not adjusted properly. ON THE OTHER HAND THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT IT DID BEFORE THE NEW THROTTLE BODY WAS INSTALLED.

A question I have is it NORMAL for the light NOT to come on while you are riding but then stay on after the next time it is started or do they normally come on as soon as a problem is detected?
 
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A question I have is it NORMAL for the light NOT to come on while you are riding but then stay on after the next time it is started or do they normally come on as soon as a problem is detected?

I've had check engine light come on mid ride, for other stuff, but for P0638 that time it came on at startup - which is what pointed me to the movement of the secondaries as these go through a cycle when you switch on ignition.

It might not even be the same issue again - could be MAP sensor fault since the had to disconnect vac tubes to change out TB'S, for example. Chances are though it will be TB related.

Have you considered investing $20 in a lonelec cable for tuneECU?