electric problem with H4 eastern beaver kit

[albertaduke]

I need some advice from the electrical savvy crowd, here is my problem, I installed a eastern beaver kit with the optional switch .everything worked fine then I went riding for 3 days and the headlights went dead.
I checked the fuses all are good I checked the optional switch (to turn power on/ off to the headlights the switch is POWERED (witness light in the switch come on), the small parking lights in the pots which are connected through the ignition barrel work the high beam blue light on the handlebar comes on when switching from low to high with ignition on , there is no break in any of the wires and since both headlights are not coming on, it has to be a common component could it be an actual relay is there something in the small black boxes that could cause this problem ? anybody has ideas? might be something simple but since electricity and me are like oil and vinegar I need the words of the experts ,

the sooner the better so I can go riding again ...

 

[albertaduke]

I FOUND THE PROBLEM...take a look at the picture , I wired the headlights to the #1 unswitched position on the PC8 and it melted the block yet the 20 amps fuse did not burn!! I did a hot lead check and the lights do come on when connected directly to the battery very strange that the block would melt and the fuse remained intact.

 

[HellFire]

The power lead to the headlights in my opinion should be wired straight to the battery. I feel the whole purpose of the modification is to supply as much power directly from the source to the lights with nothing between them but heavy gauge wire.

I hope there wasn't alot of damage done to the block, those dual lights pull so much current it really should be too much for the bike. Hope you get things ironed out and back working dependably again. Luck.

 

[albertaduke]

The power lead to the headlights in my opinion should be wired straight to the battery. I feel the whole purpose of the modification is to supply as much power directly from the source to the lights with nothing between them but heavy gauge wire.

I hope there wasn't alot of damage done to the block, those dual lights pull so much current it really should be too much for the bike. Hope you get things ironed out and back working dependably again. Luck.

thanks hellfire.. I read your posts and I sympathize with you even if I do not post my feelings . my electric problems are so trivial compared to the agony you go through with a
person from whom you are supposed to get support . it boils down to selfishness and lack of empathy on her part and that you cannot change regardless of efforts made by you

the question is can you live with that for much longer I am blessed in this department that my wife is considerate of my effort to make her and me reasonnably happy.

days are going by never to come around again I never thought to write these words but with age they pop in mind more often so do not let life get by you , try to be happy any way you can and break free from a difficult marriage before it affect you to the point of no return.

and I will follow your advice and wire the lights straight into the battery bus

 

[HellFire]

Thanks for the kind words .... I honestly dislike the fact that I've posted anything about my troubles here on the site, but by doing it I've not only received good advice but also been able to go back and read my posts for therapy. It's kind of vain of me to make you guys a part of this boring domestic bull****, I appreciate everyone humoring me as well as just putting up with it.


I wonder since you had a resistance problem that caused a meltdown if now going to the battery your lights will get brighter? Let us know what happens.

 

[HansO]

If you are wiring directly to battery make sure the wire you are using is at least 30Amp rated and to protect your self against burnt out relays get a waterproof heavy duty bladefuse holder with a 30amp fuse in the line, assuming the eastern beaver relays are 30amp. I made up my own using Narva 30amp 5 pin relays in the harness and that is what the twin light draw, as hellfire said there is a lot of power being drawn and if you don't put a fuse of the same amperage as your relays it will cost more than A $2 fuse, relays cost $15 and if the whole harness is correctly made and soldered there should not be any excessive resistance. I like to even solder the crimped connectors heatshrink every connection

 

[albertaduke]

gentlemen
thank you all for the advices I also wrote to jim at eastern beaver and he suggest I wire the headlight to another post on the PC8 since all the heavy wires are connected from there to the battery and fused so being totally inept at electricity I figured the man knows his stuff and who am I to think otherwise therefore the wires are in a new post on the PC8 with that 20 amps fuse and I will keep an eye for any sign of melting just to make sure if I see a discoloration I will change to what you guys suggest

and by the way that 20145 tune for triple KN ,jardine , no 02 sensor is fantastic with the added advantage of no popping on decel..